I have a 1995 SR5, 4X4 toyota pickup truck. I had the clutch replaced and since then had problems shifting it in gear from a stop. It has gotten worse and grinds when I put it in reverse just to put it in 1st gear. I recently bought original toyota clutch, but not sure if i have to get a new flywheel. PS, never had problems prior to replacing the clutch. Need advice, flywheel very expensive.

thanks

 

The problem is most likely the pilot bearing. It is letting the input shaft drag and keep the tranny turning too fast, that is the grinding.

DO NOT BUY THE FLYWHEEL, at least until you have pulled the tranny for inspection of the clutch components. Specifically you need to be sure that the input shaft is COMPLETELY smooth and that the pilot bearing is totally seated.

 

A problem that I have seen is that when whoever put the clutch in bent some of the fingers on the clutch. This causes it to disengage on an angle. Will also cause vibration when shifting.
So you may be dragging some of the clutch causing the grinding. When you let out the clutch does it shake?

 

No, it doesn't shake at all. I don't have a problem, until I have been driving the truck for a litle while.

 

Did they replace the fluid in the tranny? If so they may have used the wrong type do some searching there is discussion of manual tranny fluid in another recent thread. If they didn't replace the fluid the problem is definitely in the clutching system. Sounds most like a bad pilot bearing but the only real way to tell is removal and inspection.

 

A flywheel is a solid chunk of steel...there isn't much to screw up. As long as it was resurfaced, it shouldn't be causing you a problem.

It'd be worth bleeding your clutch. My celicas clutch started acting up at one point. Not liking to shift, grinding, etc. A quick bleed, and it acted like new.

 

done it all. As a matter of fact had it done by a shop. They resurfaced the flywheel, replaced the clutch, and now suggest that I might have to replace the flywheel, without even looking at it and a truck with less than 150,000 miles overall.

 

for fun check under the dash above the clutch petal at the clutch master and see how much to can adjust the rod going into it.

 

i second seeign if you need to adjust the pedal. As for the problem i had the same thing with a stock replacement clutch after 2000 miles. The disc actualy had a little metal spacer peice break out and was stuck some where so the cluthc wouldnt isengage all the way. But the chances of you haveing the same problem are very slim. Usually a clutch on a toyota that is not disengaging means improper adjustment. A bad flywheel might be off my .25mm at the most. This usualy just cause crappy engagment it woudlnt cause it not to disengage.

 

dude a flywheel is like $600. you REALLLLLLLY dont want to replace it.

 

holy shmokes. 600 bucks maybe and aluminum one. i have seen then for less than $200..

 

i dont know where you have looked for fly wheels but look at the bottom of this page if you need a flywheel

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/tra...ion/clutch.htm

 

those are resurfaced. I'd bet that a new flywheel from the dealer would run in the $600 range.

 

I bet your clutch master cylinder is leaking back into the resivoir. Once the oil moves around a bit it get worse. Try just starting your truck when cold put in gear and see how it feels. If it is fine then sit there and pump the clutch a dozen times and see if is gets worse. They are not that expensive to change. COuld also be your slave leaking.

 

x2 if it gets worse while driving. The fluid will thin as it warms making it more likely to leak than if it were thick and cold. In the original post I don't think you said it got worse after driving. If it does it all the time I would say pilot bearing.

 

It's more than likely the flywheel. My car was doing the same thing. Had a hard time changing the gears. Changed the clutch and mechanic said I needed new flywheel also. That's what was causing the hard shifting.