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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Rear Axle Bearings, Seals, Etc.

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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 07:26 PM
  #1  
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Rear Axle Bearings, Seals, Etc.

I'm getting ready to install an Aussie Locker in my rear diff. I figure while I'm in there I will replace the bearings, seals, and gaskets and switch to synthetic lube. Any good sources for the parts? What all should I replace? It's doing fine now but I just figured with 267K and with me wheeling it it can't hurt to freshen it up. Thanks for any suggestions you have!

-Anthony
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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From: kc mo
i would just replace the axle bearings and all seals & gaskets. other wise you should be fine. and maybe the pinion bearing since they are kind of common to go bad.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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Does that mess up my gear setup (shims and such) to replace the pinion bearing? What's entailed in that?
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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From: kc mo
no. just put everything back the way you found it and torgue the pinion flange to factory specs. to set the preload. if youve ever done any rear end work you should be fine.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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Well, I've seen it done and helped but never done it on my own. I catch on pretty quick and I have all the service manuals so I should be able to figure out the procedure.

Do I have to replace the crush sleeve? If so, I read something where it is better to replace it with a spacer? Any tips on that?

I'm trying to get my parts list together. So far I believe I need:
  • (2) Axle Bearings
  • (2) Axle Seals
  • Pinion Bearing
  • Pinion Seal
  • Housing Gasket
  • Thrust Washers (manual for the locker says for high mileage I should replace those to be safe)

Anything I should add to the list? I want to make sure it's right. I will probably re-gear in a couple years but in the meantime I am driving it alot and want to not have to worry about it.

Thanks!
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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i have the rear axle rebuild kit from marlin crawler on my shelf right now. I paid about $150 i think. it contains service parts from the axle seal ouwards, does not include third member items. they were very prompt and complete with their shipment, and advertise OEM japanese bearings.

my understanding is that the bearing replacement is nearly impossible without SSTs (confirm, anyone?). i found a decent local shop with the necessary press and tools, they estimated 2 hours/$80 to change the bearings out for me (does not include my time to pull it apart and reassemble). thats all i got.
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bktaco
i have the rear axle rebuild kit from marlin crawler on my shelf right now. I paid about $150 i think. it contains service parts from the axle seal ouwards, does not include third member items. they were very prompt and complete with their shipment, and advertise OEM japanese bearings.

my understanding is that the bearing replacement is nearly impossible without SSTs (confirm, anyone?). i found a decent local shop with the necessary press and tools, they estimated 2 hours/$80 to change the bearings out for me (does not include my time to pull it apart and reassemble). thats all i got.
What are SSTs?
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Old Oct 20, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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From: South Carolina
Special Service Tools?
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 07:56 AM
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This may sound bad but this is how I do it. Pull the snap ring and slam the axle shaft end down on your shop floor a few times, you can watch the backing plate move. To install you will need about 3' of 1 7/8" pipe.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 08:13 AM
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From: Reno, NV
bobo: how many times have you done that? ever had a problem with that method? that could save a couple of bills...
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 09:44 AM
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Bobo's way

I've used Bobo's way about 6 times. Works great.

TIPS:
Leave the drum on while you slam it down. More mass. They all came off in about 5 hits.

Put something over the brake line hole when you slam it down. It will squirt oil all over the place otherwise.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by leiniesred
I've used Bobo's way about 6 times. Works great.

TIPS:
Leave the drum on while you slam it down. More mass. They all came off in about 5 hits.

Put something over the brake line hole when you slam it down. It will squirt oil all over the place otherwise.
haha I forgot about the brake fluid. A friend of my dads showed me that trick years ago, when he banged my axle on the concrete I thought I was going to puke, but it does nothing to the shaft and I've used that method from then on. The 1 7/8" pipe fits perfectly,you just beat it with a BFH until it seats and put your snap ring on.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 04:45 PM
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From: South Carolina
Another vote for bodo's suggestion. You have no way of knowing if the place you drop them off is going to do this anyway. I would say try this yourself first. The axle is tough enough to take it.
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Old Oct 21, 2006 | 05:48 PM
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From: Rochester, NH
Leiniesred?
You get 44mpg?
HM
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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From: South Carolina
I just did this this morning. it had been a while. had an 87 pick up with bad bearing.

You can cut the spacer that is just under the snap ring off with a sharp chisel and the bearing comes right off. Forgot about the spacer on one side took 40 hard slams to get the bearing off. Other side, cut spacer off first and 6 slams. Good job, $100.00 + parts out the door. Took forever to bleed the brakes though, I left the drivers side hanging open last night and it leaked all most all the way down.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 11:38 AM
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From: Midlothian, VA
For future reference if you still have rubber lines you can clamp some vice grips on the line so the whole system doesn't drain (so you're essentially just bleeding the lines on the axle).

I still haven't finished mine yet. I pulled the 3rd member and one of the bearing surfaces for one of the side gears was all chewed up. The good news is I found a front and rear diff set in 4.56 to replace my 4.10s (with half the miles of mine). I'll post again when I get it done, hopefully Sat.

Thanks for the heads up on the spacer though!
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