I have some questions on repairing a brake line leak. My 92 4x4 4Runner has a major leak from one of the rear hardlines above the fuel tank. The leak is bad enough that it will empty the brake system in about 15 minutes. I am preparing to empty the fuel tank and drop it within the next week and I want to know how difficult it is and what sort of tools I will need. Also, should I use compression fittings or flare the lines? What tools should I get to make the job easier? Anything else I should do while I am up there?

 

flaring tool and tube bending tool. Definitely use flared fittings! Pull the existing lines off one at a time, bend the new tubing to the same shape as the old one, then install the new line. The only problem I see is getting the old lines apart, but if you're replacing all your lines, then it doesn't matter if you break any of the old ones when you take them apart.

 

Check the price at the dealer for the preformed lines, they may not be too expensive, and it's a lot easier than bending and flaring you own.

 

Is it necessary to replace the entire line or can I just replace the last few feet of line from the portioning valve?

 

Yeah just get new lines from the dealer, they are fairly cheap and come preformed with all the bends, protective shields and fittings, ready to go. There might be a slight bend or two from shipping you'll need to straighten out, just be carefull not to kink them, I was able to do it with my fingers.

 

I think on the 4runner its somewhere around $80 for both rear lines. You may be able to get away with not dropping the tank, if you can get your hand in there.

 

I wasn't able to on my pickup, there was one clamp bolt right between the frame and tank. Maybe the 4runners are different.

 

I cant even see the valve they hook up to in the back. At this point, all I can tell is I have a lot of break fluid flowing from above the back end of the tank. My 4Runner has ABS in the back, where do these hook up to in the front? I've only had this for about 6 months and most of that time has been spent on working on the engine and waiting for parts.

 

I can almost tell you exactly where it is. Its either right between the tank and the frame, because the dirt builds up there. The other spot is where it bends up over the back cross member dirt builds up in the corner of the frame and cross member. The lines are running to the proportioning valve in the back. One is a pressure line, the other is a return line. Another route you can go is block the return line at the front, and run one line back to the brake hose, but to do this you need to run a manual proportioning valve. That route is gonna be about the same price as buying the 2 prebent lines.

 

To the ABS actuator: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...42310107BVIARv

 

Thanks everyone, I am going to the dealer tomorrow to order the lines.

 

well, I have ordered the lines from my dealer. They came to $100 and change and should be here about Wednesday. Looks like the easiest way to get to the ABS unit in the front is to pull the radiator and fan and move the power steering pump as well. Seems to me that some things may be easy and others difficult, none are conveniently placed on a 4Runner.

 

Dropping the tank isn't too bad, much easier with two people though. There is an access panel under the rear seats so you can disconnect a few things. No need to remove the seats.

Then just some bolts at the front and rear of the tank and also the filler hose. There are several bolts holding the filler hose to the body or frame and you'll just have to look for them when you discover the hose won't move.

A floor jack really helps in lowering and lifting the tank.

 

A floor jack with a tranny adapter is even better: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...42310107nlJvxo When I did a brake line my drive shaft was off so I just moved the tank over a few inches.

 

Lowering the gas tank is a lot easier the emptier it is IMO...as the less fuel in there the less there is to slosh around and shift the weight while on the jack. I believe it was 3 fitting connections under the access panel, the fill neck was the hardes thing to get to for me and then the 6 or 8 bolts that hold it on to the mounting brackets and skid plate. Two sets of hand are the most beneficial IMO.

No way I can see anyone getting their hands in there to R/R the brake lines w/o dropping the tank unless you are a leprechaun.

You can buy a flaring tool kit relatively cheap and any solid round object like coke bottles or pieces of pipe work great for bending the lines if you take your time. Just don't kink the lines.