2nd Gen Lift Questions??
#1
2nd Gen Lift Questions??
Okay well I'm going full on trying to find a good 95' 2nd gen to replace mysick 3rd gen. I will definately lift the new Runner, it'll be one of my first mods I know that. But my question here is, I want close to 3 inches of lift like I have with my 3rd gen. I want to be able to run 32's or 33's with a 2" body lift. I was looking around on the suspension round up page and read every part of everyone's write ups for 2nd gens. Aside from doing an SAS like UpInDaAir, what can I do to get 3" under a 2nd gen. Is there no lift springs or spacers I could put on a 2nr gen to get kinda lift. All I saw there was downy springs that gave you 2" and cranking the T-bars to match. I want to at least clear 32s w/o a BL. Can you guys help me out, I want to get some Downey 3.5" coils for the rear and get at least 3 or 2.5" in the frot to make a 2nd gen look somewhat like my 3rd gen. Help me out here w/ any suggestions you many have, oh and the 4" Rough Country lift i out of the question, it seems there is problems w/ that coming from UpInDaAir's write up.
#3
Yep, my truck was stock height with 32" MT's with out rubb at al (full compression locked turn) I did get a little rub at the full lock/stuff when I went to the low-profile bump stops.. I will be adding a 1" body lift.. There is no need for 3" if you clear..
Keep in mind, you need clearance under the truck.. If you going to put on 33"s jou need to clear the tires.. going higher than needed just makes you centter of gravity higher, you do not gain any ground clerance.. and IMHO, the only body you need to worry about is the rear bumper.. The over hang stinks and you will hit it off road.. I never hit my rockers (although I now have added sliders) and I routinely smack my front bumper too.. But your lower control arms will be the first to hit, and only bigger tires will change that. Next you will want to beef you your gas tank skid plate (JFYI, I do not recommend that you do that angle iron welded to the bottom type.. a good stuff could poke the cut ends thru the tank..
Keep in mind, you need clearance under the truck.. If you going to put on 33"s jou need to clear the tires.. going higher than needed just makes you centter of gravity higher, you do not gain any ground clerance.. and IMHO, the only body you need to worry about is the rear bumper.. The over hang stinks and you will hit it off road.. I never hit my rockers (although I now have added sliders) and I routinely smack my front bumper too.. But your lower control arms will be the first to hit, and only bigger tires will change that. Next you will want to beef you your gas tank skid plate (JFYI, I do not recommend that you do that angle iron welded to the bottom type.. a good stuff could poke the cut ends thru the tank..
#4
What they said.
Also keep in mind that if the 4Runner has ADD hubs, it is not advised that you crank the T-bars. Swap out the hubs for a set of Aisin Locking hubs and you can crank 1.5" with no problems.
Also keep in mind that if the 4Runner has ADD hubs, it is not advised that you crank the T-bars. Swap out the hubs for a set of Aisin Locking hubs and you can crank 1.5" with no problems.
#5
I installed the Downey HD rear coils and new shocks and ran 32's with no problems at all. I never had any rub or clearance issues. In fact, I think I could have gone with 33's and still been fine
Last edited by 95FourRunner; Apr 10, 2003 at 10:58 AM.
#6
Aw man reading these pos brought a smle to my face, I'm glad to hear that I can run some 32s or 33s w/o t much drama, I just want a truck half as touh looking as my 3rd gen sits now and I will be happy, but I would hope wit the extra money saved by having a 2nd gen instead of th 3rd gen I wil be able to make the 2nd gen look twice as beefy. Thanks alot guys. As for changing to manual hubs, I think that would be my first mod, I would take out a few more $$ on the loan to get those on ASAP. When talking abouthubs, are Asian's just better b/c they came as OEM or would a set of Warn hubs be better. Thanks again.
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#8
You would be fine with either one. I didn't change mine at all. I was still running the ADD system. I never jacked up the t-bars though becasue of this. Luckily, my 4runner didn't have too bad of a "drag racer" look to it. It could have been raised an inch and a half in the front, but it didn't show that much. For the coils and shocks, I was under 400 bucks.
#9
I have 33's with a 1" bodylift and 3" Downey rear kit. It looks like this:
Cranking the torsion bars is not a real practical way to clear tires as you are only getting lift at ride height, you are doing nothing to maintain tire/sheetmetal separation under compression.
I have pics of the fender trimming/pounding that I did, along with the new skidplate, but I do not know how to resize them.
Cranking the torsion bars is not a real practical way to clear tires as you are only getting lift at ride height, you are doing nothing to maintain tire/sheetmetal separation under compression.
I have pics of the fender trimming/pounding that I did, along with the new skidplate, but I do not know how to resize them.
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