ring and pinion gears
#5
Here is a good chart where you will be able to see roughly what your rpm's will be at 65 mph with any given size of tires and gears. Notice it says these are accurate for a 1:1 ratio, meaning 4th gear in your manual. When you are in 5th, your rpm's will be lower, more like the green area. You will be able to drive just fine at interstate speeds. Some might say these charts are not all that accurate because of many variables, but they are a great place to start. Hope this helps.
http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm
http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm
#6
I just went through this on my 4Runner. I'm assuming you have 4.56 now, and it will be OK with 33's. Some ways, better than stock really, as I found first was about worthless with the 31's - by the time you got moving, you were tached out. You will lose some "pep" on the highway though. My speedometer was within 1MPH of the GPS with this setup.
I went to 4.88, and it is better than the 4.56/31 or 4.56/33 combo - kinda the best of both worlds - a usable first gear and pep on the highway.
If you're only going to be on the interstate every now and then, you could look at 5.29's even, which would be really great off road!
I went to 4.88, and it is better than the 4.56/31 or 4.56/33 combo - kinda the best of both worlds - a usable first gear and pep on the highway.
If you're only going to be on the interstate every now and then, you could look at 5.29's even, which would be really great off road!
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#12
you got a mud hole with a bottom somewhere down in the muke. Does a trutrac apply some amount of traction to both wheels as you sink and clinch. Or does it wait til you're stuck then do some magic mechanical thing so both wheels turn after the fact I called Detroit in Cleveland and they said it acted like a limited slip ie some to both sorry to be so anal I just want to get it right first time... I could save the trutrc for front and order a detroit for rear? PS I got this mud hole that every time I do something to improve I go deeper in then I got a mile walk to get my Dads tracter haha
#13
The TruTrac applies a multiple (1.5x to 3x depending on mfg/model) of the torque the tire with the LEAST traction can handle. SO, if one tire is in the air, and can handle 0 torque, neither wheel gets you moving because 3x0=0. There is a way around this by using the brakes to make sure the one wheel has at least some torque on it.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml
In some instances, the TruTrac is better because it can apply more torque to the wheel with traction than a true locker. The downside is they are a little unpredictable.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml
In some instances, the TruTrac is better because it can apply more torque to the wheel with traction than a true locker. The downside is they are a little unpredictable.
#15
I love my TrueTrac in the rear. I have had a rear tire up in the air several times, and been in deep mud. I can tell you it operates like an open diff until you need it, then it engages almost like a locker. When I have a tire up in the air, it stops getting power and the one on the ground gets it all. I can go more places in 2wd with the TrueTrac in the rear than my last truck with open diffs in 4wd. Not sure what "unpredictable" means, I never even notice it is there. They transfer power to the tire with the most resistance, not to the tire with the least (like open). If I give it a lot of gas, almost immediately both tires will peel out. On pavement, I leave two stripes.
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