Project Snowball rears it's ugly head again.

wHere are the grounds(the big ones) in the engine bay. I found the one that runs from the battery to the block, but I'll be damned if I can't find any more.

I have some 2AWG marine cable sittng here and I want to add / replace the grounds where I can,

 

there's one on my 4runner from my battery to the passenger fenderwell

 

I need to figure this out myself. So, if someone doesn't tell you before I figure it out I'll let you know. I'm going to redo all the big wires soon.

 

Thats the one that also goes to the block.

On all of the cars I have worked on there were always a few grounds that run from block to frame or to the firewall. On this truck it seems there is only one from the battery to the block

 

Some I know of on my 3.0.

I have one ground from the back of the intake to the firewall. This one plugs together.

I have one on the DS next to exhaust, bolt to block and then to top of fender.

Hope that helps

 

No thats great, I am missing the one on the driver side just like i thought.
I plan on useing the 2AWG cable to tie in the engine to the frame, chassis and body. I figure I have enough wire to do two grounds on each side or the block and two grounds from the heads to the firewall.

And I saw this thread when I was searchng.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...le+replacement

I found a 21" battery cable in our lawnmower section at work that should fit. I'll take some pics of the progress and post them up if anyone is interested.

My only concern is the wire that goes to the fuseblock looks like a fuseablelink, I wonder if I should put a circut breaker in line just in case?

 

Glad I was of some help.

I did that mod you are refereing to some time back. I do not remember the replaced wire being a fusible link... it just looks that way in the pic. I think you'll find when you have things apart it's a pretty straightforward upgrade.

 

I did what is called the "big 3" for car audio purposes. It upgrades Neg Bat - chassis, block - chassis, and alt - pos batt. I just made my own grounding locations as needed... if you want to see pics here are a few:

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...s/IMG_0713.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...s/IMG_0712.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...s/IMG_0711.jpg

This was done in 4ga wire. I now run 1000w of class a/b power with the stock alt with no dimming until I reach volumes that would damage my hearing so it's no problem... also here's a link to a "big 3 tutorial"

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=

 

Yes that is a fuseable link. The fuseblock has about a 6 or 8 gauge wire connected to a smaller fuseable link which then connects to the battery. I am extending that wire right now as part of my 3.4 swap. ORS supplied me with a new fuseable link:http://www.offroadsolutions.com/products.htm

 

AcidicDreams, Is this the stock location of your fuse block?

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...s/IMG_0711.jpg

 

Well here is what I have done for now

Here the ground ans starter cables wrapped in DEI Thermal wrap


Here is a pic of the top of the battery with the new wires.

Mt_Goat what the amp rating of the fusable link? Should and do you think I should put a circut breaker on the fuse box wire?

LOCKnGO

 

sounds like you got your answer, but ill weigh in anyway... im right at that point of hoooking everything back up from my engine pull/install.

so far, theres a "major" battery ground to the pass side upper right motor mount bolt (also a mount hole for the AC compressor)

the other ground that comes off the battery should go over to the pass side fender wall about 6" away.

then the other 2 mentoned by Elvota
ground at the back of the motor to the firewall
and one on the drivers side fender to (someplace, havent figured it out yet


oh and someone has downey headers

 

Sorry I don't know the amp rating of the fusable link, but Mike at ORS could tell you. I would definantly use that or a fuse or a breaker. I wouldn't get so concerned with good current flow that you start bypassing fuses!

 

Yeah I know what you mean. I am looking at some 30 apm waterproof circut breakers, the kind that have to be reset by pushing the button. I did a quick start up and WOW what a differnece the new wires and grounds made. Project "SNOWBALL" fired as soon as I hit the key.

Well now i have to fix the broken screws that held the fan shroud on. Damn all i wanted to do was replace the belts. But of course it's never that simple

 

If I had to guess I would say that fuseable link blows higher than 30 amps since the fuse box itself (that the wire supplies current to) has an 80 amp fuse in it, you got me wondering now If I remember, I'll ask Mike next time we talk.

 

Oh boy I feel dumb! I meant to say i was looking at an 100 amp breaker. but that would'nt make much sense . i better make sure what amp breaker I need before I need some marshmellows.

If it's simple, then it's wrong!

 

While folks are replacing ground cables, you may want to do the ground mod. This just involves taking a small dremel or abrasive tool, and grinding the mating sufaces of the two mating surfaces of all the grounds. Add some dialectric grease, and bolt them up.

This is big on the import performance sites. I did this to my Subaru, and was absolutely amazed by the improvement in performance and smoothness of acceleration. It seems just bolting into the painted sufaces in not enough of a good connection. Also, don't bother buying a "ground kit". It's just wire. Buy some wire, and make them yourself for $5.00

Roy

 

LOCKnGO, that's a helluva nice setup you have there.

What kind of wires (what gauge?) and connectors did you use to build that up?

That's exactly what I want to do to my 94 runner, because my battery cables all have corrosion creeping up into them, so since it's about time to replace it all anyway, I want to do it right.

That DEI protective wrap looks like some good stuff.

 

so I broke one of the two black wires going into this small black I don’t know looks like resistor or something which bolts to the fender appears to be a ground, can I just attach it directly to the fender and ground it?

 

Just to verify which wire, it should have 1 wire going to the head and 1 where the igniter base bolts, correct? You should be able to just ground it, I would add it to the igniter base.