I need to pull my heads and check the valves on my 91 4runner with a 3.0 v6. The front and rear engine oil seals, clutch and timing belt needs replaced also. I am thinking that I may as well just pull the engine to do this. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Jack

 

well, it would be much easier to do the things you want to do with the engine out, but you have to factor the difficulty in getting the engine out, and decided if its worth it. If you do decide to pull the engine, might as well rebuild while its out, you can get the full kit from engnbldr.com for 388.
$388.00
S&H 24.00 Continental USA



Master engine kit includes: Pistons, rings, rod bearings, main bearings, thrust washer, oil pump, full gasket kit, full bronze deep dish freeze plug set, (new) head bolts, rear main sleeve-n-seal, and timing belt by year of application

 

That sounds pretty cheap. Do those engines generally need to be bored or just honed?
Any idea what a valve job cost?

thanks.

Jack

 

well, it can vary alot from shop to shop, and what all they (or you) include in the valve job. what is wrong with the heads that the valves need to be redone? im going to guess that if all the valves themselves are good, were talking a valve seat cut(might as well go 3 angle) id *probably* put new valve guides in it(have to measure them, but they are pretty cheap and theres only 12@2-4 bucks eash, not to bad). and get the heads decked. so:
both heads decked
maybe new valve guides-if the shop gives you a good deal, put new ones in.
3 angle valve job


im going to guess 200-250? i really have no idea, ive heard #s thrown around before but never priced it(i work on 2-strokes, we dont need no stinking valves!!!lol)

 

My number 6 cylinder has very little compression and there is a miss in the truck.

 

I pulled the tranny, heads, oil pan... basically all but the crank with the engine in place. I did not have a lift though, so I kind of had to do it that way. Wasn't to bad though. Hardest part was dropping the tranny, and I did buy an adapter for my floor jack to make that easier.

I replaced all the seals you refer to, had the heads reworked and put in a new clutch at the same time. Of course you wouldn't be able to do anything to the block but hone though. But, at the point I was at, it seemed like I could almost take the block out pretty easy as nothing was left holding it in but the two engine mount bolts.

 

Did you pull the pistons and rering it?

 

Yes, I did. You can access the rod bolts easily once you have the oil pan off. I bought new rings and rod bearings. Partsdinosaur.com was of great help. I am sure it depends on the amount of engine wear you have, but after several measurements I bought what I needed and put it all back together. Seems to be running very well at this point.

I should add that my vehicle does have a SAS, so I have tons of room under the engine. There is probably a few issues with original front end cross member still in place that I would not be aware off. Guess just another unforeseen advantage of the swap.

Don't re-use your head bolts, and you might find as I did when I was to this point of teardown, to replace other items like oil pump, starter... anything else that's in your hands and you can afford. Good time for headers, which helps with the hot #6 valve problem. Oh, and adjust the TPS while the throttle body is off the truck. Check 4Crawler.com or search for a how to. It is way easier to do off the truck.

 

What is SAS and were the headers very expensive? How many miles do you have on your rebuild?

Any idea what it ended up costing you?

Jack

 

SAS: Straight Axle Swap. Basically, take the IFS (stock) front end and swap in an older, straight axle. Search "SAS" and you will find tons of info, why to do, and why not to do.

I spent more than I thought I would on the rebuild (and SAS for that matter). Always seems to be something else to replace or upgrade. Kind of depends on how long you want the vehicle for yourself, and what you want to do with it.

I plan on keeping mine for a very, very long time, so it was worth it to me to upgrade and swap all that I could afford. I want the vehicle to be as reliable as possible, as I use it a lot away from asphault.. or at least that is my plan.

Looking back, a 3.4 swap would have been a better option and I think I will attempt it sometime in the future. But, I learned a lot from this job and have gained a lot of confidence for the swap when I get to that point.

Plan on around $350 or more for headers. Also add for the new exhaust needed with cat and muffler.

Miles so far around 1,000... probably 150 of that is trails. But, so far so good.

 

Thanks for the good info. I really like driving my 4runner. I had a 84 Toyota tercel 4 wheel drive station wangon berfore so this is a real treat. I have been checking into the 3.4 swap but right now it looks to expensive.

Thanks.

jack