I'm a newbie to this forum, and could really use some help...links if this is an old subject, but I'd really appreciate hearing your experiences...

I have a 95 Runner, V6, 3.0L, AT, 4X,110K mi., that I've been using as a snow/fishing rig, not towing anything but a 14" aluminum boat and trailer...and it's not all that spunky! I'm considering purchasing a 3,100lb tent-trailer, 12 foot box, and have some concerns with the ol' girl hanging in there, even if it is rated at 3.5K towing capacity. So just a couple questions, if you please:

1) What are the chances of us having to hitchhike after I blow the 10 yr old engine/tranny? (major hills in N. Idaho!)
2) With a BASIC factory tow package, should I be considering all the sway/stabilizer gizmos I've been reading about on this forum? It IS only a pop-up trailer...
3) The trailer does have electric brakes; my runner has a 4-pin connection on back that I've used while towing my little boat...Looks like the new trailer has a circular multi-pin connection, vs. the "in-line" I have. Will a converter do the trick? And will this automatically apply braking to the trailer when I use my runner's brakes?

I'm a patient guy...if I have to go slow up grades while semis pass me, so be it...but I'd hate to trash a truck that has been so good to me over the years...thoughts GREATLY appreciated!

PS. Go Seahawks...couldn't resist!

Thanks!

Curt
Spokane WA

 

Curt welcome to Yotatech! I just moved from Spokane a month ago and grew up not far from there in Idaho. Anyways as far as towing if you dont' run the engine really hard it should be fine. I would be more worried about the AT getting hot. I towed 1500 lbs pretty regularly with mine and aside from being slow as all get it out it handled it fine. I am in the same boat as you with towing though. I want to get a 12' enclosed trailer to haul my toys around in but I think it would be just much for the Runner to tow any kind of distance.

 

Holy cow! That's the heaviest tent trailer I've ever heard of! (Mine weighs 1350.)

Shouldn't be a problem really, but do put on a Good transmission cooler. The trans is your worry, not the engine or the rest of the truck. It will be slower, no doubt about it.

Those sway gizmos should not be needed. Google for some guides on proper trailer loading etc. If it's loaded right it should not sway. If it has a sway problem, those gizmos are just gonna try to mask it and get you into trouble at a higher speed = bigger trouble.

You will need more pins on your connector. If you are using 4 pins now, you have ground, tail, left turn/brake, right turn/brake.
You will need one more pin for brakes, and preferably another one to keep up the battery on the trailer. A bigger/better connector will also allow larger wire to be used for the ground, and for the charge line.

You will need a brake controller, you cannot just hook the trailer brakes to the brake lights. (THAT would be fun!)

 

Hi there Curt.
Are you sure on the weight numbers on the trailer?
Like Flamedx4 said, that is one heavy pop up. I tow a hybrid trailer and i weigh in around #4,500 but i'm 23'. I tow it with a GMC Yukon. Our Kiwi

Also like Flamedx4 said, if the trailer has a round connector it most likely needs a brake controller.
Since the trailer is only 12' you should be fine for sway.
Go to this site for some good reading. RV.net

If you have any other question let us know. I'm still new to rving but i've worked out most of the bugs. Give me a buzz.

 

Todskey and Flamed were right...so I go back to the trailer mfg. site, and I see that the GVWR is 3,100lbs, not the dry weight...it is 2,019lbs...so after a few toys and beverages stowed, I'm thinking the ol' V6 will be ok...? Thoughts? (though I'm leaning towards a tranny cooler now, thanks to the input here and on 4-Runner.org forum.

Thanks folks; you've been most helpful!

Curt
Spokane WA

 

Otterdog, a transmission cooler would be a great investment, particularly if you want to keep your 4Runner for years to come. From what I've seen in other threads, a rebuilt trans for it won't come cheap. Also, I have a trans temp gauge so I can keep an eye on things, just for kicks.

Another thing to consider are heavy duty springs, a topic that's been done to death here. They'll help keep things even, and improve handling especially if you're towing on mountainous, curvy roads.

Have fun, and welcome! We'll help you lighten your wallet in whatever way we can!

 

What they told you, install an aux. tranny cooler, or a very large replacement for the stock cooler.

As long as you are not lugging the engine, you shouldn't have any problem with it.

 

I've towed my starcraft 2407 popup a number of times. short of the saggy stock springs (fixed with OME) not a prob hear.

specs on the camper are as follows



WIth camping gear for a weekend, 2 adults and 2 dogs this is what she looked like last fall. (before the OME)

 

This forum has been great; thanks fellas. Between this and RV.net, I won't be sweating quite as much as my wife loads her up... Snap-on, is that your '94 in the pic pulling your Starcraft? What kind of miles do you have on it? I plan on putting a tranny cooler on my 110K mi V6, but I'm still leary of killing such a good weekend rig...I've just never pushed it before...'course, I'd never been married before, either...

Thanks!

 

i had to drag back my buddies trailer (very similar to yours snap on) after his jgc was totalled off. i did quite a few things wrong, biggest one was leaving the o/d on. my truck was loaded up inside with our gear and his and the rear end dropped lower than yours in the pic when we hooked up! his brake controller was still in his jeep so we were very cautious on the way home, left lots of room for stopping. we made it back in one piece but it was an exhausting drive. first time pulling a trailer, it was a good learning experience.

lee

 

have over 225,000 miles on mine and I have always towed. I have even towed in the 5,000 lb range a number of times (bobcats, garvel, etc.) I never once worried about mine. I do have the manual tranny. I would do the tranny cooler if I were you. As long as you have a motor in good shape I wouldn't worry about it.

 

PS. Snap-on - you mention OME suspension...I've seen alot of recomendations for air bags, and they sound reasonable (and low $$)...given the specs on my TV and 2,100lb trailer/391lb dry hitch weight, what does this board think of this to help my soon-to-be-sagging ass?

 

otterdog, save your $$$ and get your rear coil springs replaced. IF they are OEM ones they are probably sagging by now. PLus 2nd gen 4runners look honest to god sweet with the ass end wheel well just ever so slightly higher than the front wheel well (I'm talking distance from the edge of the feinder trim to the top of the rim/wheel). You will expierience better performance, comfort, etc from new springs and they will be that way all the time. I personally feel while air bags are a viable option for some, that having quality rear springs should always be your first consideration before anything else.

 

Ditto that. Do the springs and shocks and you won't have to think about it again.

 

mine is a 92 per the sig with 188K on it, with the stock radator cooler which im going to upgrade to an aftermarket cooler as part of my motor rebuild.

I went with the med OME which is a slightly higher spring rate to give you a slightly better cargo capaicy which i wanted as i bought the 4r specifically for towning the camper.

It has electric breaks but i dont have the break contoler wired up yet. Ive had a couple of times when i could have used it but for the most part its not a problem to get her stopped in time. Im not new to towing and/or large loads so its no big deal for me.

 

1. Chances are not likely you having to hitchhike as long as your 3vze was well taken care of and maintained.
2. No. Weight distrobution hitches are NOT recommended on 2nd gen 4runners.
3. The circular pin connector contains the 4 wires for your lights that the boat trailer did, then the rest are for the brakes. You CAN use a converter but it wont allow you to use the brakes on the trailer.


I used to tow the EXACT same trailer (minus the brakes) behind my yota with zero issues at all. I now tow a 19' tracker grizzly, with 40hp mercury, and a 100% steel trailer (which is rusting like a fiend - damn you bass proshops) Needless to say that setup is at least 2000lbs judging by how it trailers. No issues here with 270,000 on the clock.

Just allocate 4x the distance to stop, do NOT follow closely other people, NO sudden moves or jerks - everything MUST be smooth, otherwise you can easily loose control.


As far as the air bags vs air shocks vs springs....I have both the bags and the air shocks. (Heavy arse sound system in the back.) The bags are cool as hell because you can deflate them from the cab or inflate them as you see fit. HOWEVER the bags when unloaded give you one hell of a stiff ride. Air shocks on the other hand give you a gloriously wonderful ride (better than stock) and the higher than stock rear end.

If I had to do it again, I'd probably just grab the springs and shocks, or just airshocks.

 

couple of things....

If you add a cooler, have the tranny fluid checked. Hopefully it's been changed often, and if so, consider changing it again before your trip. But give it a few weeks if you can.

Second, keep that thing out of OD. Leave it in drive and enjoy. Also, my opinion is that you should NOT use cruise control when towing. It will cause your tranny to unlock the torque converter more often, which causes heat. I think a person can manipulate the torque converter better manually than the cruise can.

EDIT: Third - turn on ECT Power mode.

I don't like air shocks, personally. The shock mounts were not designed to handle the weight of the truck. People have good luck w/ them, however.

I agree w/ considering replacing the coils...

 

speaking of towing with the auto (which i hate btw comparied to my 5spd truck)

anybody rigged up a switch for the torque converter to lock/unlock/auto on command.

I found a locked up converter to be good in 3rd gear, but unlocked or OD wasnt the best.

As i understand it the tranny should unlock under load to create more torque which drove my RPM up to were i wasnt confortable "cruseing" at 4000 rpm

 

I've been wanting to do this exact same thing. We have an 89 pickup with an auto, 4.88s, and 37s. It runs fine until the stupid torque converter lockes up, then there is NO power. If we had a switch where when it was off the converter never locked up and when it was on it acted normally, that would be sweet.