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Need spark plug numbers for '92 4R

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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 05:41 AM
  #1  
FastCat's Avatar
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Need spark plug numbers for '92 4R

Hi all, I'm going to perform my first tune up on a '92 4Runner (3.0 v6) I purchased a month ago. I've tried searching the forums for what spark plugs I'll need, found lots of mention of spark plugs, but nothing mentioning a part number for any particular brand plug. I guess my search skills might suck, but can you guys help a fellow 4Runner owner out?

Anyone got a number and brand for spark plugs? I just need one, I can cross-reference to a different brand from that.

Yeh, I know I could look it up in the parts store book, but I'm being lazy at home right now, and ain't this inner net, world web wide thingy great?

BTW - I like NGK plugs. Hint, hint!
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 06:01 AM
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From: Smithsburg, Maryland
defintitly NGK or Denso. I can't give you the exact p/n since I have a 22re, but I would look in the back of your owners manual if you have it, it will be in there.
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 07:02 AM
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Manual says NGK BKR5EYA, or Denso K16R-U. That's for a 95 3.0, a 92 should be the same. Gap to 0.031" (0.80 mm)
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by eric-the-red
Manual says NGK BKR5EYA, or Denso K16R-U. That's for a 95 3.0, a 92 should be the same. Gap to 0.031" (0.80 mm)

Thanks a bunch.

I'm not the original owner of this '92, and the seller said the owner's manual is long lost.
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 08:55 AM
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From: Troutdale, OR
Originally Posted by eric-the-red
Manual says NGK BKR5EYA, or Denso K16R-U. That's for a 95 3.0, a 92 should be the same. Gap to 0.031" (0.80 mm)

If you buy Toyota plugs they come pre-gapped.
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 09:54 AM
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Supposedly they do but for the extra 2 minutes of time I always check anyway.
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 10:42 AM
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I always check the gap.

I always use anti-seize and dielectric grease on my plugs too!
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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Just to update, yesterday I changed the plugs, and decided to start with the easiest to get to (#6?, driver side rear plug - Toyota denotes driver side cylinders with even numbers??).

I couldn't believe how tight the plug was on there! After Conan'ing it a couple turns, it dawned on me that whoever put it in there had crossed the threads and that's why is was being so hard to remove!! DANGIT!!!!!

Well, after contemplating whether to replace that one or just leave it, I decided to continue. Finally, I got it out, and sure enough, even the steel threads on the plug were stripped towards the spark end.

I prepped my new replacement plug and went to install it, hoping for the best. After a few tries of getting the threads to catch, I finally got it started, and after eyeballing it to determine if it was going in straight enough, I cranked it in. It fought me the whole way in, but it will have to do until the next time where I'm afraid I'm going to have to pull the head to get the threads Helicoil'ed.

All the others were fine, except I can't believe there are still people that don't put Anti-Seize on their spark plugs when installing them! Steel plugs in aluminum heads creates a bit of corrosion in the threads and makes it much harder to remove the plugs than it needs to be! I can't recommend using Anti-Seize strong enough! Oh, and putting silicone dielectric grease in the plug wire boots is also a simple thing to do to ensure an easy plug change next time.

Truck runs fine now. Meanwhile I will see about getting the plug hole Helicoil'ed in place, instead of having to remove the head to do it.
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