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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

3.0 Head Gaskets, $2,710.26!!!

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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 01:17 PM
  #1  
4x4Lamm's Avatar
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From: Canton, Ohio
3.0 Head Gaskets, $2,710.26!!!

My 4Runner is back from the shop, all the headgasket and related repair work is done. Grand total is................................................ ...............

$2,710.26!!!

On the plus side, the entire top end of the engine was rebuilt, so it should be fine for a long time.

Here is the list of what was done:
-machine heads
-new knock sensor
-new knock sensor wire
-new water pump
-new exhaust bolts/studs (manifold)
-new idler pully assembly
-new idler tensioner pully
-new thermostat
-new head gaskets (kit)
-new head studs
-new air filter
-new AC belt
-new power steering belt
-new alternator belt
-new coolent
-new valve seals
-new cam seals
-Replaced a few missing bolts on the tranny bellhousing too



So now the build-up can continue. Lift and tire/wheels in a week or two.

I'm still fighting with Toyota and Cain Toyota over all this, I will be sure to post the results of that...


Lamm
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 01:21 PM
  #2  
FilthyRich's Avatar
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From: Richmond, Va
WOW--not cheap at all.

Glad it is all fixed. Let the mods continue
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 02:29 PM
  #3  
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From: The Lone Star State
That's why I hate the 3.0. You probably could have had a reman w/ a warranty put in for that price. I think the Orient Engine is $2K.

I hope she runs good.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 04:14 PM
  #4  
4x4Lamm's Avatar
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From: Canton, Ohio
So far so good. Runs better than my mom's 03 Highlander.

A few long trips tomorow will yield better results.

Lamm
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 04:16 PM
  #5  
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From: Michigan
Yikes... Would a crate motor be cheaper?
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 05:07 PM
  #6  
4x4Lamm's Avatar
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From: Canton, Ohio
Well, labor was $1300 and there was about $150 on tax alone with the parts, so I doubt a crate motor would have been cheaper installed.

Lamm
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 10:17 PM
  #7  
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From: WA ,monroe
Originally Posted by 4x4Lamm
Well, labor was $1300 and there was about $150 on tax alone with the parts, so I doubt a crate motor would have been cheaper installed.

Lamm
maybe not through toyota but somewhere else
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 08:18 AM
  #8  
4x4Lamm's Avatar
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From: Canton, Ohio
Its possible a Jasper motor or something would have been better in the long run, but whats done is done. And now I need some OT.

Lamm
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 10:27 PM
  #9  
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by 4x4Lamm
My 4Runner is back from the shop, all the headgasket and related repair work is done. Grand total is................................................ ...............

$2,710.26!!!

On the plus side, the entire top end of the engine was rebuilt, so it should be fine for a long time.

Here is the list of what was done:
-machine heads
-new knock sensor
-new knock sensor wire
-new water pump
-new exhaust bolts/studs (manifold)
-new idler pully assembly
-new idler tensioner pully
-new thermostat
-new head gaskets (kit)
-new head studs
-new air filter
-new AC belt
-new power steering belt
-new alternator belt
-new coolent
-new valve seals
-new cam seals
-Replaced a few missing bolts on the tranny bellhousing too



So now the build-up can continue. Lift and tire/wheels in a week or two.

I'm still fighting with Toyota and Cain Toyota over all this, I will be sure to post the results of that...


Lamm
I feel your pain. I just got my rig back too. My damage was $2,300.

Here is the list of what was done:
-2 new core heads
-machine heads
-new knock sensor
-new knock sensor wire
-new idler lower bearing
-new idler upper bearing
-new thermostat
-new head gaskets (kit)
-new coolent
-new spark plugs
-distibutor cap

timing belt and drive belts were changed 5 months ago.


It does run a lot better.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:25 AM
  #10  
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From: San Diego, CA
yikes....looks like my problems aren't over.

The engine runs great now, but the damn coolant is still leaking from pretty much the same place when I brought it in. On the passenger side btw the fire wall and the engine. I can only follow the leak up as far as the X-over pipe. It only starts leaking after the T-stat opens. It doesnt leak when the engine is off or immediately on startup.I thought it was the HG, but now I don't know. Called my mechanic yesterday and he offered to drive down to my place and check it out today(Sunday), so I wouldn't have to bring it all the way back to his shop if it was something small. His shop is 40+mi from me.

Are there heater hoses down that low behind the engine? I do have a rear heater and I followed those, but didn't see a leak.

I do hope it is something simple....the engine is running so smooth.

Last edited by abalagtas; Nov 20, 2005 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:47 AM
  #11  
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From: Binghamton, NY
Originally Posted by abalagtas
yikes....looks like my problems aren't over.

The engine runs great now, but the damn coolant is still leaking from pretty much the same place when I brought it in. On the passenger side btw the fire wall and the engine. I can only follow the leak up as far as the X-over pipe. It only starts leaking after the T-stat opens. It doesnt leak when the engine is off or immediately on startup.I thought it was the HG, but now I don't know. Called my mechanic yesterday and he offered to drive down to my place and check it out today(Sunday), so I wouldn't have to bring it all the way back to his shop if it was something small. His shop is 40+mi from me.

Are there heater hoses down that low behind the engine? I do have a rear heater and I followed those, but didn't see a leak.

I do hope it is something simple....the engine is running so smooth.
Check out my thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/3-0-coolant-bypass-hose-rear-intake-68448/

James
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 03:30 PM
  #12  
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by SRV1

Thanks James,

I can actually see that hose and it doesn't appear it is leaking.

The shop owner and mechanic had a pow-wow and think it may be one of the 3 drain plugs on the rear of the block. They looked coroded, but it didn't appear to be leaking when they had the engine a part.

I'll be dropping it off tomorrow for them to take a look at it.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 04:10 PM
  #13  
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Just fixed my behind-the-motor-between-the-firewall coolant leak today. Mine just turned out to be the clamp on one of the heater hoses wasn't on all the way. Maybe your rear coolant passage where the temp sensor, cold start sensor, and one other sensor is attached to is leaking at the base where it sits on the intake manifold? When it starts leaking, shut it down, let it cool for a few minutes and pry your hand next to that passage and feel for a leak. Only freeze plugs I know other than on the sides of the block and under the intake is 2 in the back of each head.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 04:37 PM
  #14  
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From: San Jose, CA
I spent about $500 on mine and I did it myself!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 07:20 PM
  #15  
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From: San Diego, CA
Welp.....that was it. The horse shoe hose from the bypass to the sensors was leaking.

I think this was my original problem. However, the work they did on engine was needed and runs so much better. I think I was running on only 4.5 cylinders. There is so much more power now....for a 3.0.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 03:48 AM
  #16  
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good deal...
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