Wow, lots of great info here and the people seem really helpful!

I just bought a 93 4runner 3VZE with about 180,000 miles for my daily driver. Was a shame all the wear and tear on the Impala.

Since I've bought it done the following work:
Timing belt (due every 60000 mi right?) Old one looked pretty good though. (Timing was indicating 0 BTDC - should be 10 BTDC. Wow ran a lot better after adjustment! Highly recommend everyone checking their timing!)

Shocks were totally shot. Replaced with ProComp ES3000's and steering stabilizer.

Replaced rear springs to eliminate saggy butt (Eibach Prokit 1.5" lift progressive spring)

Right front CV joint shot. Replaced.

Brakes.

Installed PIAA P3000 in the lower valance because the headlights kinda suck even after PIAA Xtreme White bulbs. (Could Toyota make it any more difficult to change bulbs?)


Is there anything else I need to look for?

It came with 31's, but looks like there's a lot of room. With the 1.5" lift in the rear and possibly some torsion bar work or balljoint spacers, what would fit?

The performance/fuel economy ratio on the 3.0 is horrible. What mods work best to either increase HP or mileage (or better yet, both)?

 

Try a search for a deck plate mod, 3.0 fuel economy and modfications and also, the size of the tires you have will effect the fuel mileage. Something you might want to think about also if it is a DD and you drive it all the time.

 

I was kinda hoping the taller gear would lower the highway RPM (2625 RPM at 60 MPH) and get better mileage ... Seems the first gear is plenty low (can pretty easily start in second).

Manual transmission BTW

 

Welcome to YT.

 

Which one you interested in seeing? I need to find the pix of the "Ole' Red"

 

Lets see them all

 

haha. youre joking right? better fuel economy on a 4runner? youre kidding right? haha. good luck my friend. if you find a secret that we dont know about, please share. im getting 12-14 mpg as of now. 200-220 per tank. keep those 31's or smaller even. dont waste time with that K&N crap unless you plan on doing that in addition to exhaust, headers, chips, the whole nine yards. youll be wasting your money otherwise. tread lightly my friend...

 

Sounds like you're gettin that thing squared away, awesome!

Check headgasket, see if its been replaced...notorious problem.

You can fit 32's safely but if you think mileage is bad now, stick with the 31's.

Other than that seems like you've gotten everything cleared up, obviously check plugs, wires, cap, rotor and all that good stuff.

If mileage is really bad fuel filter helps sometimes.

That's all I can think of as of now.

Welcome aboard!

Fink

 

The "deckplate" is only for the 3.4L. And yeah, the 3.0 is kinda known for 4 cyl. power, and 8 cyl. fuel economy. Oh well. You could try helping it breathe - intake and full (headers back) exhaust, and some people have seen MPG gains with installing manual hubs. But all that money will probably only get ya a few more mpg, so you'd have to decide if it's worth it.

As for tires, 32's are no problem. I really wish I'd gone with 33x10.5's. They might rub a bit, but they should fit without a problem, and the gas mileage shouldn't be much worse than the 32's.

 

No one has milled a peice of AL block for a 3.0 and tried to make one?

 

Here are some pix of my old truck. Some stats (I'm sure I'm forgetting some things):

1989.5 Pickup 2WD 22R 4 speed
270,000 miles
Weber carb with K&N
Jacobs ignition
Headers
Fabtech Ivan Dan lift
31x10.50 (rubbed a little)
Battery box built into bed/spare tire area
Innovation shell
PIAA Driving/Fog lights
Hella headlights (pic shows Black Magics - they were changed to some that used replaceable bulbs later)
Hella BlackMagic Off Road lights (not shown in pic)

4 USAmps USA-100 (1800W ea)
1 USAmps Xterminator (4x100 + 1x250 or something like that)
8 JLAudio 12W0
1 JLAudio 8W6
JLAudio VR components
AudioControl EQT
Clarion head units (yes two) and CD changers
Air conditioned amp rack

Custom dash (the only factory piece was the A/C plate)
Custom bed
Corbeau seats

Multiple Spring Break Nationals winner
Multiple Perry winner
IASCA World Finals 1999 4th place SQ+
Wrecked on the way to the 2000 World Finals (yes, I'm that guy)

 

1993 4Runner all the stats in post above...

PIAA P3000's fit perfectly in the valance. Mine had a little structure in the way to keep them from going all the way to the outside, but they came out OK I think

 

Twas a nice truck, too bad about her fate. Nice runner too!

 

Wow I looked at that 4runner a few weeks ago when i was shopping for a new one.

I turned it down in favor of a much cleaner 95 with an auto.

Anyway, I'm only an hour away, and In the process of builning my new 4runner back up like my old one so if you want we can hook up and help each other work and wrench and stuff.

Lamm

 

Nice rides. To bad about the truck though. Good luck with building the 4Runner.

I agree with everyone else here, if you are looking for fuel economy from the 3.0 then stay away from bigger tires. A full exhaust and amsoil drop in filter would probably be the best things to do for milage.

 

We are brothers !!!

My 93 3VZE has 171k and since picking it up a month ago I have...

* Replaced both front Driveshafts (CV boots)
* Replaced plugs, wire, cap + rotor
* Replaced fuel filter
* Replaced fluids

* Set timing (make sure you connect the link in the data port next to the fuse box under the hood or timing will be 2* off)

I added a K&N FIPK as I got it really cheap from a bud but the jury is still out on that...the biggest improvement I got was from putting in the new plugs with 31 thou gap versus the one I took out with over 100 thou

I have also added :

* 15 x 8 AR23's with Dueller AT 31 x 10.5 (tires came with truck)
* Buswacker fender flares (to cover tires)
* Aisin manual hubs ($40 on eBay and I rebuilt em)
* OME N98 (front) and N72F (rear) shocks
* OME 900 rear spings
* Energy suspension bump stops
* Factory rear wind deflector (mine came without)
* Yakima tracks (mine had no roof rack ) and Yak rack
* Slyvannia Silverstars

On the bling front ...

* TRD license plate frames (from my 03)
* TRD shift knob (I know, I know, don't say it :pat: )
* Jason B clear corners
* Cheap eBay clear turn signals

In the garage ready to install :

* Dynomax Super Turbo cat back ( $95 at Summit)
* Front light bar
* Landmaster 190 Dual beam driving and fogs (from my 03)

On order

* Ball joint spacers
* Diff drop spacers
* Sliderz....
* Factory front mudflaps

Think thats it but I am sure there is more....

Oh yeah, next week I am replacing the :

* Water pump
* Timing belt
* Idler and tensioner
* Cam seals

I will post a pic thread next week ....

As for economy and performance, I have been pleasantly surpised with the economy as it is better than my 03 V8. However, that is not saying much.

I think I have it running about as good as I can get it and I am happy with that. Performance sucks but I think the 5 speed is the best option as at least you can move the shift lever around abit out of boredom... it makes no difference to acceleration but it passes the time...

Any questions, let me know.

David

 

The economy is not really all that bad, just not the kind of improvement I was looking for over the Impala SS, when you consider it's at least twice as fast. (although the fact that it runs 87 instead of 93 octane makes a big $$$ difference). Really considering manual hubs...

Lamm - you found a truck CLEANER than this one? The interior is like brand new! (Well, except for missing a radio and the tailgate cover, which I found at a 'yard for $5) I actually went down to Canton to look at a couple trucks. A guy had 3 of them, but was awful proud - $2750 for an '86 with a torn to hell interior and needing a windshield?

nrgetic - timing belt is not too bad. Took me and another guy 3.5 - 4 hrs. You can probably do it without removing the radiator, but it doesn't really take that much longer to pull it out and allowed us to get an impact on the crankshaft nut. Also, now is a good time of year to make sure you've got good, clean coolant in there. The belt is REALLY tight putting back on - make sure you have all your timing marks lined up because you WILL move the cam wheels as you're fighting with it. Apparently, the tensioner can be a little tricky, but we were able to get the threads started and tighten it up without having to go through all the holding the rod back with a paper clip stuff.

 

Did you swing the PS pump outta the way while leaving it hooked up to the hoses ??

David

 

The fuel economy you're getting is probably as good as it's going to get. There are definitely some engine mods available for the 3VZE, but few that are worth the ROI. I wouldn't do headers again if given the opportunity (not on the 3VZE, anyway). Don't waste any money on the K&N stuff. Amsoil drop-in air filter is the way to go, or better yet, do a snorkle!

The lift options you're considering are right on. You can get a good 2-4" of lift for a very reasonable price -- you already have the coil springs; crank the torsion bars and/or add bal joint spacers up front to get a matching lift. I'm running on 32" tires and think it's a good compromise of size to fuel economy/power. I could fit 33"'s, but doubt I will.

By far, the best investments I've made were:

- Re-gearing once I got larger tires. 4.88's do great.
- Manual hubs. Easy mod and well worth the price. I went with Warn.

The list of stuff we will do and can do to modify these rigs is endless. I installed a rear locker in mine, but wouldn't recommend it if it's your daily driver. Unless you're going to get a selectable, like ARB -- but then you're talking major $$. Sliders are next for me. Getting mine from Stubb's. I'll probably add a little more armor sooner than later -- the front skid plate is already jacked on mine.

Ed

 

Yes, nergetic - you have to take of an inner bracket, but just loosen up the outer one. Tensioning the vbelt is the opposite direction than you would think (push TOWARDS the block to increase tension)