Howdy,

I am in the middle of a rebuild and I am taking the 22re into the machinist but my mechanic tech buddy will not be with me.

I have the engine torn down to the block, oilpan removed (which had remnents of the old timing chain and guides, nice job jackasses...), head is removed.

Had very low compression. There seemed to be no damage when we pulled it apart. A couple rings had seperated, but not cracked. Maybe a hairline crack in the head. Looks like the wonderful guys who chained the TC before maybe had a hand in the head gasket, considering the ports on the block were reduced to pinholes with silicone.

So I am taking the block into the machinist - pistons and crank inside;I will be rebuilding it with a rebuild kit from engbldr - I think I am asking him to;

- hone the cylinders,
- dip the block

Is there anything else?

How much should I be expected to pay for this service?

There is something I remember aboput the crank from searching the forums, which everyone seemed to think is not needed (hydroplaning the crank?) Machinging the crank?

Thanks alot everyone

 

Have him check the block and head for flatness. Also have the head pressure tested to rule out the hairline crack.

Can't answer for the block but I payed $500 for the head pressure test, machining, clean/polished, and new sstl valves sets installed.

 

Thanks Pirate,

I have ordered a new head with OS valves. So we pulled the old head and am just sending the block with pistons, crank over to the machinist (timing chain is out too)

More specifically it is just the block.

 

"Magnafluxing" is how they test for stress fractures and cracks.

 

Just remember, no means no, and go for the eyes.

 

also take your crank and rods(minus old pistons) into the machine shop, have the crank journals inspected to see if they need to be ground. have the machinist inspect the block and tell you what overbore size you'll need for pistons, rings, and bearings(both rods and mains).

when you get your pistons in, take one of the pins to the machinist, and have him rebush your rods and have them honed to fit the pin. this will ensure that there's no top end knocks(piston pin/bushing wear may not make noise with an engine that has no compression, but on a fresh engine you're gonna hear one knocking around).

when i built my 22R bottom end, i had the rods rebushed, block cleaned, decked a few thousandths(deck had corrosion), bored and honed .040 over. i think this ended up being about $300.

later when i found that the head was defective, i took them my 20R head and had it resurfaced, oversized valves installed, along with completely new hardware for everything(all from engnbldr) and a mild port job. labor ran about $275 on that job.

 

greenleaf,

please use appropriate thread titles. i've modified this one but next time

bob