hi

I have a 1997 3.4 liter 4 Runner SR5

I purchased complete front assemblies that have the Rev Tek spacers, new Tokico struts and springs, I also have OME 891's for the rear and new KYB shocks, I picked up the diff drop from 4Crawler

I am interested to see what the time estimates of installation are? given I dont have major problems, rusted bolts etc

Please advise, thanks

 

it could be free if you do it yourself. Its not hard at all. Mabye someone boston ppl can help you out?

 

im not too worried about doing the work,,,i should be able to figure it out,,,i do have some experience tinkering with crap boxes, here is another project i am working on...but of course have to keep the daily driver 4 runner going...



was wondering though how long swapping the complete front assemblies would take, please advise me, any suggestions, time estimates

thank you for your input!

 

Since the assemblies are complete, I'd say under an hour.

 

sorry man i read your post wrong I would say in on about an hour like tdiddy said.

 

what do i have to do to bolt them in? the three top bolts, the bottom strut mount?

what else has to be be disconnected etc etc?

thanks!!

 

Depends - do you drink beer while wrenching? Are you in a hurry? Are you using air tools?

I'd say 5 hours for everything. That's an hour for jacking, standing, taking tires off - then putting them back on at the end. Plus time for a beer. Diff drop - hmmm. I'll say an hour. mostly for taking skids off and on. Could be longer depending upon modifications needed. For the front struts I'd say 2 hours. This can be done in very little time - however you'll be double checking illustrations and drawings to make sure you've got the bolts, washers, spacer etc all in the right order (don't forget the jack on the upper a-arm trick). Rear is probably 1 hour (assuming you'll be disconnecting the sway bar, compressing springs (i assume this is a lift), then swearing about the upper shock mount - then putting it together). I needed a deep socket for the rear. used channel locks instead of a strap wrench on the old shocks since I was throwing them out.

I may have misunderstood the question as well.

I think I was about 5 hours for the above. I didn't do the diff drop - but I put my front strut together incorrectly (found out as I test drove around the block) and had to re-do it.

 

Jack up front

remove tire

disconnect end links

undo 4 bolts mentioned above

I think that's about it. You may need to compress the upper a arm during the install.

 

1. Disconnect Sway bar.
2. lift the car and remove tires.
3. Unscrew lower shock mount bolt
4. Disconnect lower ball joint, 4 bolts under the hub, this will make install very easy.
5. Remove 3 nuts from top plate.
6. Install new assembly and you are done.

 

Yeah undoing the sway bar is probably easier with the wheels on the ground

 

bennito

the front assemblies are all ready to go

I have complete springs, rev tek spacer, tokico struts already assembled off the vehicle

I need to remove the ones in my truck as a complete unit and then swap these other ones in, I already have one skid plate off as I was checking out the steering rack bushings the other day, which I will also replace

anyone know how the rear springs go in? I do think I will remove the ball joint mount,,,,so then when the new strut is in place with the three bolts, and the bottom strut bolt is in, I can just put some light jack pressure under the control arm if needed, get everything up in place?

thanks for everyones input, I love yotatech!

 

I know there's writeups out there for this stuff, I had 3 different ones with me when I did mine a few years back.

IIRC...

Disconnect sway bar

Disconnect e-brake cable

Jack up, remove wheels

Have a support under the rear diff

Remove shocks

Tilt axle, lower diff a bit and springs should almost fall out

 

did you get the trekmaster r/t's? I had those on a toytec lift and the bouncing was crazy. I am taking them out this week and installing some HD Bilsteins. I am curious to know how your lift's ride turns out...

 

OME 891's going in the back with KYB gas shocks

Tokico front struts, non TRD Tacoma springs, Rev Tek 3 inch spacer set up, this set up has 11K on it came out of a double cab so should have a spring rate appropriate for my 97 Runner

Diff drop from 4 Crawler

I hope it will be a nice set up, seems others have similar stuff in their rigs

When lowering the rear axle,,,,should I have the driveshaft disconnected? ir will it travel downward enough that it is still safe?

 

um what is,,,, IIRC... ?

I am lost

 

if i recall correctly.

 

There are quite a few writeups on this already:
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig/96/ome.htm
http://www.sonoransteel.com/front.html

Brian (waskilly) had a good one too but it is down right now.

I would guess 5 hrs with hand tools or 3 hrs with air tools for front and rear.

 

I do have air tools, have a pretty nice shop thankfully, I do often use only hand tools though for sensitivity, make sure i dont over tighten etc etc

but for this, to get it done, I think the half inch air ratchet is going to get a work out! tonight I will spray down all the bolts with penetrating oil

also how much lift should I expect?

should I re use the rubber cone things that go in the rear springs?

 

also how much better will it drive and handle

right now it has 230k on it, on stock struts and shocks that give a bouncy ride

I should notice a huge difference,,I hope,,,

the front assemblies should arrive today, and tonight I will toss the steering rack bushings in, then tomorrow early AM start on the front

 

struts came in the mail today

started at 6pm, was done with the entire lift by 830 or so

did OME 891s out back with KYB shocks, Tokico fronts with Taco springs and Rev Tek spacers, also had top out spacers

used the 4Crawler diff drop, that really is a nice kit, good that it came with all the right hardware etc

took about 15 minutes each side..in the front..well my dad did one side his was 15, mine took 20,,,he did undo the ball joint bolts, just popped the control arm down a little and slid it in..I dont think he took off the end link either....as many said you had to or would make it easier, the rear had to cut each shock at the top

my old man is a sharp one, was an M 60 gunner / crew chief in Vietnam, the top of his class / mos training as a helicopter mechanic....it still shows today