i did my front brakes today, everything went smooth exept for the first caliper, i pushed all the pistons in, but on the third piston i pushed, the other piston, on the same side, came out really far, and was a really knarly pain in the ass to put back in.
to get it back in i finaly used the old pad, and a c clamp, before it went in it fellte das if it popped or slipped passed soemthing i couldnt see.

before getting it back in i thoguht to add a bit of pressure to the system, so i started her, and stepped on the brake once, when i did fluid came squirting out past the piston wich i was having problems with..

once i got that put back together i moved to the other side.. it went smooth.

when i started her up and got ready to test her.. the ebrake started freaking out.. when i push the brake all the way back in the light on the dash gets a lil dimmer, but doesnt go away, making me think that physicly the brake handle is all the way recessed, but the problem is somewhere else in the system..

any experiance?

92 4runner 4wd

 

did you remember to top off the resevoir?

 

um, it sounds liek you ripped the boot on the piston, that caliper needs t obe replaced.... fluid should never shoot out of the piston

 

yeah i topped the reserviour...
i sooooo did not want to hear that i ripped the piston boot thing a ma bobber..
how does that explain the e brake though?

 

it doesnt, but fluid should never come out of the piston....

 

If you like messing about the garage, You can get a caliper rebuild kit for $5.00 from Autozoned. Includes 4 seals, 4 boots and circlips. If the piston is scored or pitted though, you'll wanna get a new caliper--$39.00 from the same place.

 

40 bux for a caliper, awesome =] i was thinkin liek 100+ for one...

 

Yeah that caliper shouldn't be leaking at all - rebuild or replace it. But I personally don't see why that would be causing a problem with your E-Brake since the e-brake is mechanical and not hydraulic??? I would imagine you should be able to even have like NO fluid in the entire hydraulic brake system and the E-brake should still function properly....

May also want to try adjusting your rear e-brake ... the trick from another post I read works well --- drive the truck backwards about 3-5mph (I use an empty Wal-Mart parking lot) ... & while the truck is moving, foot off the brakes, push the button & twist the knob on the e-brake handle, then crank it on and off, on and off, several times. Did mine like 20 or 30 times and my e-brake is tight as can be, engages in about 5 or 6 clicks now.

 

The ebrake light is also wired to a fluid sensor detector in the reservoir. Thats why when once a week someone posts about why they can't figure out why their ebrake light is on, about a dozen people pipe in and ask whether they checked the brake fluid level.

 

You brought up a funny memory for me. I did an oil change for one of my customer's vehicle and noticed the brake fluid was low. The pads were fine and I found the leak in one of the wheel cylinders. I notified the service writer but the lady didnt want it fixed right away. About an hour later, the service writer gets a call from the lady saying her parking brake light was not on anymore and was wondering what I did to fix it. I explained to her that I filled the brake fluid back up and the sensor picks it up and turns off the light. She was absolutely amazed lol.

 

i guess i should od searched first.. sorry..
the fluid is fyne.. it has a lil to much actually.. but when i get my truck back from the fabrication shop ill take a lil out..

when i took the brake fluid cap off the wire conected to the cap came unplugged.. and i plugged it back in.. maybe ill disconect the battery and see what happens

 

My bad - I thought he was talking about the E-Brake itself ... but apparently it was the e-brake LIGHT he was referring to eh.