Heard that UCA with uniball requires frequent lubrication and that they squeak, and can get damaged without periodic maintainence. Looks like mud and grime can enter the lubrication area. The stock UCA with ball joint doesn't have this problem (they use sealed boots).

Need your help in deciding if new UCA + adjustable coilovers (eg TC + DR) is worth it compared to 3" spacer lift (Revtek or ToyTech etc).

Thanks

 

Well maybe decide what you want to use the 4Runner for first and what tyope of budget you want to invest in the vehicle.

I have heard similar things on UCAs, yet if you read up on TTORA there are a number of very happy customers. The new UCAs have grease zerks anyhow.

Pending on your 4Runner use UCAs are not neccasary.

 

Thanks.

When would UCA be required for 4th gen, with an adjustable coilover?

Also, how often does the grease zerk require cleaning and refilling. Is the uniball prone to damage from mud getting into the grease during off road?

Appreciate your reply.

 

As far as I know UCAs are not required with any coil-over setup now. SO you can use the stock A-Arms if it concerns you.

I think people on TTORA have a lot more info on UCAs, so maybe ask there.

 

One adjustable coilover manufacturer "recommends" a TC or Camberg type UCA when the adjusted lift is more than 2.5" for 4th gen 4runner.

However, Revtek with 3" lift does not do so. I guess each company has their own analysis.

 

One of the main reasons for having the Uniball is to prevent the balljoint binding from the suspension drooping too low. I believe Donahoe has the most travel and even they dont require Uniballs. It will be recommended, but not required. Just phone Donahoe or whomever you want to use and get their opiion on this issue, they can certainly steer you in the right direction.

Lots more posts on TTORA about this.

 

The actual Uniball doesn't need any maintnance, except for washing off the mud with plain water. Don't use any type of wet lubricant, the teflon lining will wear out quicker, if you must apply a teflon dry lubricant. The Urethane bushings use a special lube and most of the manufacturers now have zerk fittings to make it easier.

I've been running uniballs for over a 1 1/2 years and they show no sign of wear, without ever applying any form of lube.

 

uca's are not needed if you don't plan to do a lot of trail riding. that's because you'll never fully droop your front suspension so no worries of the stock uca's hitting your coils. once you really start to offroad a lot, depending on how much lift you have, you will notice that the stock uca's will hit your coils. when you start to show signs of premature wear and tear on the stock ball joints as well as the contact points on the coil, it is recommended that you upgrade your uca's as part of the evolution into the mod cycle.

hopefully this helps. there are plenty of members that only have a simple lift still running the stock uca's so if you have the $ to burn and plan to flex a lot, then invest at the appropriate time.

Good Luck!

 

Many of the trails I've done actually had one the front wheels completely off the ground i.e. under full downward flex. The problem seems to come up when the above is combined with the steering completely turned. Under this condition, the stock coilover + stock UCA can still be moved further down (e.g. with top out spacer) by probably 1.5" to 2" before the spring gets too close to the sway bar. I don't think the stock UCA will touch the coilover with 2" top out spacer lift, but the ball joint angle would be rather severe. I'm not sure if replacing the UCA with TC or Camburg is a good idea with stock coilovers due to the sway bar potentially touching the springs. Wonder if anyone has tried this out.

 

I'm sure people have tried it out, and no one has mentioned this being a problem.

 

ok to clear things up: your stock coils are "coils" and not "coilovers". coilovers are adjustable coils which you don't have (see saw,donahoe,king, ...)

if you plan to offroad, just take the damn swaybar off as that'll severly limit your droop. take that sucker off (4 12mm bolts) and you'll see another 1-2" of travel in your front susprension. now w/ the swaybar off, your stock uca's will probably hit your coils. If you plan to offroad a lot, just upgrade your suspension, remove your swaybar (when you offroad) and get some UCA's and call it a day.

your stock ball joints will be torn up once you fully droop your front w/ the swaybar off (been there done that).

good luck

 

Any suggestions for a detachable swaybar?

 

yeah remove it w/ some hand tools

 

i second Lance's suggestion. seriously, it is a simple procedure.

 

Is a differential drop recommended if the swaybar is to be disconnected, for 4th gen 4runner?

 

don't bother with the diff drop. not needed at all..

Do this:
1. BUY LIFT (I don't care which one, just get one)
2. BUY TIRES/WHEELS (I don't care which one, just any brand/style/type you like)
3. Go offroad like crazy
4. When you offroad, remove your swaybar for more travel and enjoy the trails.

Can't get any simpler than this. you're thinking way to hard.

 

why would you need a diff. drop if you're removing the sway bar? with only 2.5" or 3" of lift, there's no real reason to do a diff. drop - especially on the 4th gen.

 

So the down travel is limited by the swaybar and not the strut?

 

Both... like I said, you're thinking way to hard on a simple matter. Best way to learn is by actually taking your rig out on the trails and doing a visual education on how the suspension works. you can take your rig out on the trails in the stock condition and learn that way as well.

Take your swaybar and see how much more downward travel you'll gain and you'll learn quick. Try it yourself before asking because seeing is believing.

good luck

 

Just being careful. Don't want to ruin the 4runner.