im in the process of swapping out my clutch and i want to get my flywheel resurfaced at the same time. my problem is that i cant get the damn bolts out. ive tried a breaker bar, sprayed some liquid wrench type stuff and tried the breaker bar again and nothing. i cant get these bolts to move at all. does anybody have any tips on breaking them free?

 

try heating them up with a torch.....

 

I would avoid the heat method. Use a pipe extension for the breaker bar for more leverage, and something to lock the flywheel in place.

 

Hey buddy i'm in the middle of replacing mine to 92 4runner let me give you 2 words NO HEAT you will fry the rear seal go down to the rental store and rent you're self a 1\2 inch electric impact gun and get a 14mm impact socket or you can get one for about $170.00 they don't have the power of a pnuematic but they work.

 

use an air impact. I did, that made it cake and the best part is you don't have to keep the flywheel from turning.

 

ok well i got the bolts off and now the next question is.... does anybody know the torque specs that im suppose to use when i put the bolts back in? thanks again

 

2RZ–FE: 88 (900, 65)
3RZ–FE: 26.5 (270, 19)
5VZ–FE: 85 (850, 63)

N·m (kgf·cm, ft·lbf)

 

Don't forget the loc-tite
When we were working on my 1st gen, one of the guys ended up drilling holes into a metal bar and screwing it on to ? (I forgot) and the bar braced the flywheel to the frame so we could get the bolts out.

 

hehe, bolting the brace to the pressure plate holes........ I remember that day when everyone was stumped on how to hold the flywheel.....

 

just pull the #1 spark plug, rotate the engine to about 20* BTDC on the compression stroke and feed a bunch of nylon rope in. it'll lock the engine so you can get the flywheel bolts out. when you want to torque them back in, pull the rope, rotate it to 20* or so ATDC and feed it back in. that'll lock the engine so you can torque them down.

i installed mine while the engine was on my hoist, just before putting it in.

 

Hey Bruce,

I don't remember... was the brace your suggestion?
I vaguely recall that it was. Worked out awesome too. One of the guys took it right after we were done and immediately claimed dibs for his toolbox

 

ok one more question haha. is there an easy way to get the pilot bearing out without getting a bearing puller?

 

You can use grease and a chunk of dowel to force it out Fill the bearing with grease, then tap the dowel in. The grease will force the bearing out.

 

I have had good luck with pumping it full of grease and finding a bolt that fits snug in the pilot berring and then tapping the bolt head with a hammer

 

Is there an echo in here? hahahha

 

ah you beat me to it

 

But it will take you more than one try. It took me about 10-20 pack grease and tap cycles to get the thing to come out. I suppose once enough of the outer race was exposed I could have grabbed it with a plier but I didn't feel like rolling out from under the runner to fetch one. I was under the assumption it would be "pack with grease and pop once and it's out." Just thought I'd throw that in so he'd know what to expect because the first couple pops I didn't think it was working.

 

You can always look over WildBill's write-up, it tells you basically all you'll need to know:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...enance/clutch/

 

thanks a lot guys i'll be attempting it after work tonight

 

The grease and dowel/bolt method will work, but as some have noted it can take several attempts. You might want to check the local parts store, many will rent out tools. If you can find a pilot bearing puller, it makes the job much easier.