The time has come to start looking into off-road lights. So I decided it was time for another poll. What size of off-road lights do you think I should go with? 55W 100W or 130W

I ran some Eclipse 100W lights on my Dodge and they worked great and are cheap. I think I may go with them again. Here they are:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...967935983&rd=1

100W seemed like plenty of light to me. I just want to hear what you guys have to say. Are 55W lights bright enough?

Thanks

 

i have 3 55w hella 500s (well only the middle is really a hella, the outer 2 are knockoffs, but perform the same)

they are brighter than most peopel will ever need

 

Just an option:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...84&postcount=1

Hope this helps..............

 

What kind of deal can you get on a set of 60XT driving lights? These would fit my new roof rack better than my KC's

Thanks, Jake.

 

how about the PIAA 80 PRO XT, ill sell you mine for $100, they have been used for a couple of years, work great and are 120w.

 

I don't see the Pro 80's on PIAAs web site. What do they look like?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WD1V

http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/Lamp-pages/80proxt.html

 

Sorry, I've got round now. I'm want Square to fit my new roof rack better.

 

If you want really good cheap lights then go to wal-mart and buy the halogen driving lights (note I said driving and not fog lights). I bought them for 20 bucks and replaced my old tractor beam lights with these and they were much brighter than my high beams. I will use them next to replace my backup lamps and mount 2 more on my surco rack.

 

couple things to consider-

If you are using the stock alternator, how much amperage to you have to spare? More lights can require an upgraded alternator.

With the radio and amp (if you have one) on, the AC or heater on, and stock headlights, can you spare another 20 to 30 amp continuous current draw? Two 100W lights will pull 15 amps under ideal conditions- I found it was closer to 20 with a meter.

I have two 55W Hella 500's for additional light, but find I use the tractor lights more frequently since most of the stuff I do is at low speeds. I've got two tractor lights that shine on the front axle, tow for the middle of the truck (belly lights) and one for the rear axle, and two more that light up the front tires. In total, the tractor lights draw about 12 amps on a meter, and offer a lot of usable light. With the Hella's on, it adds and additional 10 amps of draw on the system. That's about all I have to spare...


This shows the tractor lights on:

http://www.bajataco.com/spiderranch/L_spider19.jpg


Later

 

Super White Driving Light System (PIAA-6252)






Product: PIAA 60XT Series Super White Driving Light System (PIAA-6252)
$163.39 plus shipping

I'll need your zip code for a complete quote. Reply to: info@trdparts4u.com

 

So do you think running two 130W lights plus the high beams is too much current on my stock alt? I'm seriously considering buying some 130W lights right now but I want to be sure they will work.

Thanks

Ag

EDIT: Does anyone have any first-hand knowledge of running 130W lights on a 3.0?

 

i have my 150W KC's and use them with my highbeams on all the time. as long as the truck is running your fine.

 

Cool, thanks.

 

I agree about the wimpy stock alternator, but how does the AC or heater draw more electrical power? I wouldn't think there would be any significant current draw just from using those, nor having the fan on high.

FWIW, I have the taurus fan and the alternator seems to keep up with it on the low setting. I don't use the high setting much.

 

Every item that's on draws current, it all adds up.

Two 130W bulbs would draw about 18+ amps (260 watts / 14.2 volts = 18.3 amps) and should be OK to run. What cracks me up is the guys I see with 6 or more mounted - knowing that most of'm don't have the current available to run'm without drawing down the battery.

Wish I could find the video clip of the Rough Rider Ford @ the Baja 1000. They used 3 alternators on the truck and had a light bank on top of the rig for the night run that looked like a outdoor stadium setup. Increadible output - all HID. The video was shot from a chopper, and as they bounced thru the whoops, the light flashed on and off in front of them for what looked to be a mile or better - close, far, close, far...

 

I know. That's why I don't agree with using an electric fan to get better mileage and power over the long run.

I was just wondering specifically about the AC and heater. The AC is belt driven and I suppose the electromagnetic clutch draws a little current and the heater just uses engine coolant with a heat exchanger to heat up the air. It just seems to me the AC and heater are insignificant.

 

if you set up your electric fan with a thermostat, it is only on some of the time. so when you are cruising down the highway, enough air is flowing through the radiator that the fan doesnt need to be on, thus its not drawing amps, and it frees up a few ponies

 

Yeah, I know that whole theory and I don't buy it...but I digress. I've had this conversation before and this isn't the thread to bring it up again.

 

does anyone make lighter pullys for the 3.0?