88 4runner. 3 inch BL with 33s.. I KNOW ITS BEEN ASKED 1000000 times..
#1
88 4runner. 3 inch BL with 33s.. I KNOW ITS BEEN ASKED 1000000 times..
Im sorry guys. You are probably sick of this subject. But how would an 884runner be with a 3inch bodylift and 33s? I would alos use B-wacker cutout flares. I do mostly mud, so flex isnt a HUGE problem. How would this work? I would add a little bit of suspension lift in the future. But this would just be a cheap solution for now to clear a bigger tire. Pictures would be great!
#5
You don't need that much lift for 33s. An inch or two of body lift and either crank up the t-bars or do the ball joint spacer and add some longer spring shackles in back:
http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10
http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10
Last edited by 4Crawler; Mar 31, 2005 at 04:06 PM.
#6
Originally Posted by Napoleon047
first of all, the flares are a waste of money. spend that money on a locker. get the 33's. do what is necessary to make them fit.
The flares are only a waste of money if there are no local laws saying tires can't stick out of the fender. Besides the fact that they help keep mud from flyin all over the rig.
#7
ya i know. And i want mud on the truck 
I figure on doing either a 2 or 3 inch body lift. Probably a 2. Then do the spacers up front( the 2 inch spacers) and do a 2 inch lift block in the back. This will give me 4 all around. Does that sound good?

I figure on doing either a 2 or 3 inch body lift. Probably a 2. Then do the spacers up front( the 2 inch spacers) and do a 2 inch lift block in the back. This will give me 4 all around. Does that sound good?
Last edited by Tacoma750; Mar 31, 2005 at 02:38 PM.
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#9
If you are referring to the 1" body lift plus mild IFS lift, links and pix on my web page:
http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10
There was a detailed writeup on 4x4Wire, link on my page:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/
http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10
There was a detailed writeup on 4x4Wire, link on my page:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/
#13
2inch body lift, downey rear coils and spacers, torsion bar crank and 33x12.50 tires. probably about the same as what you'd get out of just a 3in body lift. This is a pic of my truck from 2003.
#15
#16
I would say to stay away from blocks. If you want lift in the rear, either get new springs, or a longer shackle. I don't like blocks, becasue i have seen them get spit out, and that's bad for the rig and its dangerous. But, i've also heard of other's being just fine.
#17
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f77/shiftless89s-mikes-89-sr5-4runner-59364/
here's my answer, mild fender trimming,pinchweld hammering, 1" 4crawler body lift, 1.5" bj spacer, shackels. and the fattest 33x12.5x15's you can get on 15x8 rims. still get the slightest rubbing with the swaybars disconnected durring a full locked turn with a stuffed inboard tire, but not enough to worry
here's my answer, mild fender trimming,pinchweld hammering, 1" 4crawler body lift, 1.5" bj spacer, shackels. and the fattest 33x12.5x15's you can get on 15x8 rims. still get the slightest rubbing with the swaybars disconnected durring a full locked turn with a stuffed inboard tire, but not enough to worry
#18
You can do it with a 2" BL and just some pinchweld beating, maybe no valance either. You may rub on the fender liner even after you've flattened the pinch weld so you can either bend it flat too, take it out, or cut out a section...if you do one of the last 2 I'd recomend hitting the underside of the fender with undercoating as an added protection against the mud trapping moisture against the paint and starting to rust
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But as of now its just an 88 4runner!

