Hi, I would like to get the supercharger for my 4Runner but before making the purchase, I would like to know if I also need the URD fuel upgrade kit or the TRD 7th injector kit together with the supercharger ? can I just run my 4Runner with the supercharger without any fuel upgrade kit ? I have used the search button but it does not really address the answer that I need.

 

Search search search!

 

you don't need the fuel mods, but if your looking to get every little bit of power then get them

 

I love my supercharger! And, here I am 4,000 miles into adding it on and I really want the fuel mods. I've had a minor knock problem under load (which happens a lot in Colorado-hills and all). If you're on the flats, you'll probably be fine. But if you do any climbing or towing, go for the mods. I'll be doing the URD kit this spring myself.

And, the charger gives you tons of power on its own....I just don't want to blow anything....

Anyway, there is tons of information out there for you....

 

It will be marginally ok with no other mods (deckplate, ISR, etc) but the simple fact that there is an upgrade from TRD (7th injector) should tell you that the S/C alone is not the way to go and could cause problems later. I suggest the URD upgrade but many have had success with the 7th injector as well.

 

Use The Search Button. There Are Tons Of Threads On This

 

im selling a brand new supercharger with some other accessories...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49649

 

I have used the search button but it did not really address the real answer that I need. According to Joe, he said fuel mods are not required but if people wants to squeeze as much power as possible, they would get the fuel mods. I have sent an email to www.urdusa.com about the warranty on their URD fuel upgrade kit but he never replied back. Let's say if I installed the URD fuel upgrade kit and if one year later, some of the parts become failure, I don't know if I can get a replacement. Unlike TRD, they are pretty good with the warranty on their products (supercharger, 7th injector, header, exhaust, etc.)

 

by the way, this guy on ebay is selling a 9 psi pulley for the supercharger http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW. He said by just replacing the stock 6 psi pulley with the 9 psi pulley, you will get an additional 15 HP and 40 ft lbs torque without any modification. Do you believe that ?

 

what is going to fail? if the answer you want is no mods are needed, then don't do any. A number of people(myself included) have experienced engine knock and fix it with fuel modiifcations. the difference between the the two kits is tunablity. the 7th injector kit comes form the factory as is. the URD kit is tunable. That is you can modify the system based on climate, running conditions, and performance needs. URD is a solid kit based on extensive R&D. If you are hesitant about fuel modiifcations then perhaps you need a little more knowledge on forced induction. When you add more power you will need additional fuel to compensate for the increase in power.

 

DO NOT do that. The problem with the S/C is that the stock fuel system can not keep up with all the extra air the S/C is craming into the engine. Adding even more boost will just make the problem even worse. 98% of ebayers are sharks, you COULD do it, but how long would it run after that? If you can afford both, get both. Not only will you have a good bit more power, but its also more reliable.

 

Hi Fred; good to see you back here.

If you just put the S/C on with NOTHING else (i.e., not the URD kit, not the TRD 7th injector, not an SMT or FTC piggyback) then there's a VERY good chance that because you're also looking to run with the deckplate mod (or a similar cut-away) you will have pinging problems and hit that ugly "high RPM leanout" issue.

If I disable my SMT, I run too lean at WOT and ping pretty bad. Some folks are "fine", a lot depends on where you are in the country - high/low elevation, humid/dry, etc. It also depends on the quality of fuel you put in. You MUST run 91/92 octane, but not all high octane fuels are the same quality.

There's also the timing issue, which an SMT or FTC-1 will let you manage as well.

If you're going to add an S/C, then you should make sure that you have the funds available to add additional fuel management to the engine if you need it. You'll know how it's going to go within about 100 miles of putting it on.


Regarding the pulley, yes it's true. I moved from the stock 2.37" pulley (which pushed about 6.5psi for me) up to URD's 2.2" pulley and am now pushing 8psi. I didn't dyno before or after, but there's plenty of more power under the hood.

*BUT* *BUT* *BUT* two things:

• If that pulley is really 2" (and not 2.2") then it's WAY TOO SMALL for an unmanaged engine. There's a point of diminishing returns when it comes to forcing air into these engines, and I would bet that 2" pulley is going to push more like 10-11psi.
  
  
• If you do this, and you're not running some sort of fuel controller, you _will_ detonate your engine. With the 2.2" that I'm running now, I'm at the outer edge of what I should be able to handle without replacing the injectors, adding a fuel pump and cranking up the SMT. The engine runs VERY lean without me pushing the stock injectors to their limits - which is why I have a Walbro pump on order (I have injectors which I never installed).

The RIGHT thing to do is to by the 7th or the URD kit and install everything at once. You're playing with fire if you don't, and it can be really expensive to replace an engine.

On other point... if you go to the TRD 7th kit, then it will NOT be able to handle a much smaller pulley. The piggyback ECU won't be able to adjust for the added airflow, it might be able to adjust for a 2.2", but there's no way it'll handle a 2".

 

Yeup... it's not a cheap upgrade. And like you say, it's one that you'll keep paying for each time you head to the gas pump.


Sorry man.

 

you gotta pay to play BUT it is a huge difference in power

 

I installed the TRD SC on my 2002 v6 5spd Tundra Access Cab strictly for more passing and towing power for my camping trailer. I drove the truck with no other mods (no special air filter, intake or exhaust) for 15000 miles with the only problem being an occasional high gear/ low rpm ping. I just had to remember to drop down a gear before going upgrade or punching the accelerator when the tach was between 2000 - 2600 rpm.

Recently, I added the FTC for $450. I did not add the injectors or fuel pump because I am not going to be taking this truck to the dragstrip. I am pleased with the results. I have been able to dial out the ping. This allows me to run in 5th gear at 55 mph which has improved my gas mileage on my daily commute. When I want to pass someone, I downshift and punch the go pedal, and this truck jumps. The nice thing about being able to program the FTC from my notebook computer is that I can easily go back to stock settings before paying a visit to the smog police to renew my registration.

At a later date, I may install the rest of the FTC kit, but I will have to find a good set of headers first, and only TRD makes them for the Tundra. You Tacoma / 4Runner guys have a lot more choices.

 

Dunno about CA, but here in WA if OBD II ain't spittin' error codes (obviously on a '96+ vehicle), you'll pass emissions testing. I figure though that CA is tougher and actually does the readings huh?

 

Mark,
CA does a visual, fuel cap, and exhaust pipe probe. No OBD, but I'm sure some politician looking for publicity will eventually ask for that too. I put the FTC under the passenger seat so there would be no questions about the visual. The rest should not be a problem.

Rob

 

Hello. I have a 2001 Tundra V6 with the TRD supercharger and TRD headers. I recently installed a TurboXS Dtec Fuel Controller to resolve my leanout issues. After extensive wideband tuning at F1dyno in Portland, Maine, my leanout issues are solved. However, I still have some pinging which I am attributing to timing. Will the Split Second FTC-017 Fuel Timing Calibrator fix this? Is it posible to use only the timing aspect of this prduct since the Dtec seems to have quenched my truck's thirst for fuel? Please let me know. Thanks

 

What's the AFR of your engine when running close loop under boost (such as 3-4 psi)?

 

Not sure. The Dtec does not have Air/Fuel Ratio, and my dyno printouts only have O2 readings. I am assuming there is a parameter in AFR that controls advancing/retarding of the timing. Let me know if there is some other data I can get to you.
Thanks