Okay, so I know that this answer has probably been given many times in the past but I could not find it in the 500 posts containing the words "head gasket". I am taking on the project of changing my H.G. on my 1987 4runner and I need some information on how to go about it. The basics, I've got. Now I need some specifics and I dont really have the money to buy the factory service manual. If anyone knows a post, or a website, or has any information regarding this topic, please let me know. Your help is appreciated.

Forever Greatful of this Website,

Emil

 

Don't know of a web site. Don't know which engine you have. Do know that a Chilton's or Hayne's is CHEAP compared to having to do it again because you didn't torque the studs correctly. Buy the manual.

 

I just picked up an Hayne's at VIP for 14 bucks just for a good reference. It does have a section on rebuilding the 4 cyclinder motors and on the 3.0 v6. I would have to also suggest getting a manual it is worth the extra few dollars and it is something you will have to help answer future questions.

 

if its a 87 then its a 22re
i will give you a quick over view
1. disconnect battery
2. remove exhaust manifold
3. remove air intake hoses and any other hoses and connectors that go to the head or intake, i would recommend to label them
4. pull valve cover, make sure that the dot on the cam sprocket is straight up
5. loosen and remove head bolts in recommended order
6. take out the distributor and distributor drive gear on end of cam
7.take out the 12mm bolt that is in a pool of oil right under the dist. drive gear
8. yard off the head with intake still attached ( i find this much easer that trying to remove it in the truck, I'm used to 22r's so a RE may be easer to get to, if so pull it in the truck, and make sure that the cam chain is kept somewhat tight during this process, wire it up after you get the head off
9. clean the block surface very well, you finger nail shouldn't catch on anything
10. have the head resurfaced or what ever your going to do with it
11.GET NEW HEAD BOLTS RE's use torque to yield, they are one time use only
12. reassemble, its basically just the opposite to taking it apart,
if you have any more questions PM me or post again, i hope this helps

 

I don't know how many miles your truck has, but if it hasn't had a timing chain I do one at the same time. If your timing chain jumps more than two teeth it will bend your valves. 22re's are non-clearance engines.

 

FACTORY head gasket. It is a work of engineering art compared to the others I have seen, doesn't cost moch more.
22 RE does need to have the intake manifold removed because of the wire harness/injection connectors. I have seen it left in place IF you unplug the computer and pull the harness out through the firewall (not too difficult).


wooohooo! Post 1000!

 

Okay, I have removed the exhaust manifold, gotten the valve cover off, head bolts removed, and rocker arm off. Now I need to know how to remove the timing chain so I can remove the head, or how to remove the head with the chain intact? I was going to remove the cam shaft, but i thought I would ask before. Thank You.

 

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This would mean you have a 4 cylindar 22RE engine, correct?

I would go buy Haynes repair manual. They are cheap, give great instruction and torque settings, and have pictures as well.

 

yes it is a 22re
Figured out the cam chain problem. After I pulled the distributor drive gear, I just pulled the timing chain sprocket off, and took the chain off. I placed a plastic tie on the chain so I don't lose the chain down in the block. I am going to buy a manual and maybe i wont ask so many questions. thanks

 

Don't get the factory manual... Just one of these

 

There should be a 12mm head bolt in that puddle of oil under the place the dist gear was. DON"T forget to remove it!

 

Got that 12mm bolt, thank you.

 

I'm glad this came up. I am planning on replaceing my valve seals this weekend. So this is a good refresher on what I need to do.
I almost forgot about getting new head bolts!

 

ive never replaced head bolts on the engines ive worked on, never had any problems either. it probably is a good idea though, but not neccessary.

 

I have heard this before and think it is a necessary step on the 22 re. Besides, I'd rather not take any chances. I really don't want to have to do it again.

 

The head bolts are strech to yield and they SAY to replace them. I don't know if it matters too much but i think i might.

 

I use these can be reused many times and allow you to toruqe head alot tighter.

 

That didnt work, ok here it is http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/produ...headstuds.html