I am in the process of changing my U-joint on my rear drive shaft. It basically had started to vibrate and squeak at low speeds. So I dropped the drive shaft and found a chunk of the bearing sleeve missing as well as all the needle bearings on one side of the u-joint. It was basically clunking back and forth when I checked for play.
To get the bearing caps out I used a 21 MM socket on top and a hammer and I think a 29 MM socket on the bottom to bang out the bearing caps into.
I have the u-joint off and I got a replacement joint for $14.71. The only question I have is how do I reinstall the new joint?
I have a large C-Clamp that may work as a press I guess.
What do you think?

 

I had to use my dremel with a combo of grinding the corners of the old u-joint it came right out. Before I threw everything out I noticed one side there were no needle bearings left in the cap...

Other good news I used a combo of using a big C-Clamp and a socket with my small sledge hammer I got the new joint in with no issues.

 

Just be sure to seat all four end caps against the retaining clips so there is no load against the center cross ends. Most U-joint failures after replacement come from not seating the end caps.

 

I made sure I did that. This about my second time replacing u-joints in my life it all came back to me. Thanks for the tip though.

 

Over on the tech dept of Pirate4x4, there's a write-up. Not sure if changing a u-joint is pretty general from Toyota, Jeep, etc:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ujoint_install/

 

Make sure you gease the crap out of it! Most times, the grease in it when you buy it is to keep it from rusting in storage. During assembly, I fill each cup with synthetic grease. When done, I grease the zerk, after about a week, I grease the zerk again. Then I do it at normal intervals, or anytime i'm into any substantial water.

 

They came pre greased with synthetic grease they also have little red boots on each joint to retain the grease.
I did check to see how much grease was in each cup they all had quite a bit of grease in them already so I didn't think I had to put any grease in therm.
The only issue is these do not have a zerk fittings on them like the stock one did. I asked the guy at the parts counter if they have a lifetime warrenty on the u-joint and they do. I may just drill a hole in it and tap in a zerk fitting for GP on it.

 

Oh BTW while you have your driveshaft off torque check the transfer case output flange and the rear diff flange I got at least 1/2 turn before they started to tighten. They are a 30 MM nut if you don't have a 30 MM socket a 1 3/16" socket will work for it. Remember to steak off the nut when you are done. I did test drive it today it's so much better now. The driveshaft vibe is pretty much gone however it does come back a little at abut 80 Mph but I don't normally drive my runner that fast so it's no biggie.