1988 SR5 pickup 22RE 2WD 470K
My pickup has recently developed a habit of clicking without starting. I am trying to be methodical with it.
For example, today I checked the battery before starting: 12.8 volts, but the relays clicked and the engine wouldn't crank.
After I attached the battery charger for 5 minutes, it started right up although it cranks longer (due to, I think, flooding from the fuel pump relay).
I drove to town and made several stops without a problem
I replaced the ignition relay recently and haven't had a problem until after I reconnected the dash-mounted temp gauge after removing the lower dash and fiddling with the brake booster mounting nuts.
There might be a slight battery drain, but the engine should start with 12.8 volts.
Do any of you know what the problem might be?

 

Check this thread out and see what you think, I had the same thing with my 91, sometimes it would click, sometimes it was crickets and did nothing. Added a relay as explained in this thread and all is well

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...runner-307493/

 

Thanks. That's a lot to digest.
However, the original relay and wiring worked OK for 450K.

 

How old is the starter. The solenoid contacts could be worn, pitted, or oxidized. My was intermittent and clicking only. I tore apart the solenoid and saw one contact badly pitted. Also looked like very little of it was being contacted. I then tore down the whole starter, spray cleaned all internals including windings with electronic cleaner as it leaves no residue, and replaced the contacts. Once back in the truck it has been starting fine.

 

The starter is original. It might need some maintenance. Thanks

 

Original 1988 starter? Wow. My 86 is on the 3rd one. Aftermarket ones don't last as long, even Aisin. Remove it and take it all apart. It's just 2 mounting bolts, ground strap bolt, and electrical clip to remove. The starter is very easy to take apart and clean. I'd order the contact kit before hand just in case.

 

The starter relay was wired wrong at the factory.

Please help us help you.
To be methodical,
Please let us see what you are dealing with, What does your starter relay look like and where it is?
Exactly what do you hear click,
The circuit opening relay behind the glove box?
The starter relay?
The starter solenoid?
Does the starter solenoid clunk energetically?

Check if your starter solenoid CONSISTENTLY works when you apply 12V directly from battery to its control pin as shown on here:

 

I bought a rebuild kit for the starter and solenoid. Prolly pull the starter this afternoon.

The pickup started find for 450K / over 30 years. I don't understand how it was wired wrong.

I did replace one ground wire. That didn't help.

 

I never understood the wiring issue either as mine starts 1st crank within seconds for the last 40 years with factory wiring setup. If it ain't broke..........! I do admit electrical systems do tax my brain, so maybe on some it has always been a problem. Didn't inherit my Dad's electronic skills.

If you feel energetic, pull the rotor side too. It's not hard. Spray clean the windings and internal surfaces. Use a green pot scrubber to lightly clean the copper surfaces for the contacts. I did it all, it was not hard, and I hate electrical work. Used some gear lube on the gear mechanism too. Starts great. Have fun.

 

I crawled under the pickup today. The starter is held on with two VERY tight screws that are very hard to reach. Very challenging.

 

Did you get them out? If you are going to do more work then get some Rhino ramps from Amazon or Walmart. Lifts the front end up to give easy crawl under access. I should have bought mine decades ago.

 

The lower screw is very tight and hard to reach. I sprayed it with Liquid Wrench yesterday.
The clutch line partially obstructs access to the screw. I will detach the slave (?) cylinder
I have some plastic ramps that are 6" high. I can't even roll over under the engine. I bought some jack stands today that should permit me to lift the front 10" or more.
I will try the 12" breaker bar.

 

The bracket for the slave cylinder hose is secured by that screw too, so remember to put it back. Did you try an extension on the socket? That should not be that tight. You are turning it to the left when looking at it to loosen it? LOL Use an extension to tap on the head of the bolt. Sometimes it helps . Do very light short turns to break it loose, Start with a turn t the right as if tightening it, then go left. Repeat until you feel it start to loosen. You do not want to snap that bolt.

I found the inner bolt to be the harder one to access.

I love my rhino ramps as use them to replace my steering linkage tie rod to tie rod.
If you replace the alternator the added height helps too. Aftermarket alternator don't last long in my truck

I just read your truck engine was rebuilt at 340K. Did you do it or a shop? Hope they didn't use an air gun to install that tight bolt.

 

Yeah. I cannot even see the upper bolt. I have to delay work until I can deadline it for two days.
I have viewed two Youtube videos about this process. Very helpful.
I am proceeding slowly until I get all my ducks in line.

The rebuild was a disaster.I took it to a local shop. The rebuild didn't cure the oil loss. The shop refunded my payment.
I suspect they switched blocks on me: Suddenly, the oil dipstick tube bracket was gone.

 

I hope they didn't impact on those bolts. With my 1st replacement starter, the OEM bolts came out easily. It should not be that hard.

The inside upper bolt can be reached from inside the engine bay reaching down, but you really have to squeeze your arm behind the valve cover to get to it. Also, a flex head, ratcheting box wrench helps.........I removed it last time crawling underneath the truck engine from the front. The bolt is exposed but stll needed a short extension to use a socket wrench to remove that bolt.

Some rebuild kits the plunger tube is not the same length. I had not reuse the rebuild kit one as it was too short. Sandpaper cleanig and smoothing the existing plunger's conical contact areas worked. I did use the +/- power contacts.

Youtube is a great source for all kinds of repairs. If not the same similar enough to give confidence.

 

I found both top and bottom bolts/nuts are easily accessible with a combination of:

• Shallow 14mm socket,
• 6-inch extension and
• ratchet or torque wrench

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