Next day, started find.
Next day, ran fine, shut it off for 15 minutes, crank, no start.
15 minutes later, started, ran fine.
Started and ran fine for five or six days.
Shut it off for an hour or so. Crank, no start. Tried a new coil, no change.
Tried again the next day, crank, no start.
Most Every time I tried to start, it would hit 4 or 5 licks like it was trying to run but just wouldn't go.
Today, I drilled a 1/8" hole in the tube going to the throttle body. Shot a little starting fluid in there. She started, stuttered a little bit, cleared up and runs fine.
What do you guys think?
Fuel pump going bad?
Cold start valve bad?.
I rebuilt the engine about 6 months ago.
Put a new fuel filter on at that time and have had no problems until last week.
All thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
Additional information, all original, no modifications.
22RE 5 SPEED.

 

Did you check the COR? If water got into it, it may be corroded. Also, they just get old and the "energized" contacts build up corrosion on them as they close over and over. Easy to remove and pull the cover off and look at the contacts.
Also, the COR energizer switch in the AFM can get corroded over time. Easy to check. Measure the switch contacts with the vane open and closed. The switch should read closed (shorted) with the vane open, even very slightly. Since it's just an open/closed sort of switch, the polarity of the meter leads is unimportant. Simple.

Sure sounds like the COR to me, but I've been wrong in the past. Once or twice anyway
Pat☺

 

plug that hole you drilled, it'll upset the amount of metered air going to the engine; you can pull a vacuum line off of the tb and shoot carb cleaner in that way.

since it's failing both when cold and after being shut off for an hour, it doesn't sound like the cold start valve, but then you are in new jersey in the dead of winter...

do a forum search for testing the cold start valve.

 

Update.
The lock was broken on the electrical connection on top of the fuel pump.Zip tied it together. All is good now.

Cracked open the cold start banjo fitting bolt a couple turns., Opened the diagnostic port, and crossed the B+ to FP. Got nothing. Looks like I'll be pulling the tank.

 

Was the key "ON" or did you just put the jumper in, listen for a minute, and didn't hear the fuel pump? Even with the jumper in the test jack, you need to have the key "ON", orr the fuel pump won't run. No fuel pump, no start, no fuel pump sound, etc.

Also, those wires, that carry current back to the fuel pump, have the bad habit of corroding through, with no external signs. Especially the negative side. You can pull the fuel pump up and out, set up conditions for the fuel pump to be running, and check what voltage the fuel pump is receiving. AT the fuel pump it's self. Just do NOT run it long. A few seconds should be enough,

I wish you the best of luck...
Pat☺

 

No so.
I'm in Douglasville Georgia USA.