My 160k miles 1994 Toyota 4 Runner 3.0 L 3VZE V6 2WD is currently not getting spark, and the check engine light isn’t even coming on, which previously indicated a code 52. It stopped working after turning it on for about 6 seconds; then, it just stopped idling, and ever since, it’s only cranking. I’ve already replaced several components including spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, alternator, battery, fuel pump, and fuel filter. I even bought a brand new ECU from Flagship One, but still, no spark nor check engine light on dash. Additionally, I have also tried to do a blink code test with a paperclip, but no codes appeared on the dash. Aside from the new ECU, all wires near the ECU’s location were pretty clean with no cuts or tears in the wires. How do I reprogram the immobilizer or reprogram ECU to the car if that’s the case? If not, I suspect it might be the igniter, coil, crankshaft position sensor, or possibly even a fuel injection issue. Initially, I thought the crankshaft position sensor was in the distributor assembly, but on websites that sell new distributor assemblies, they don’t mention that it includes the crankshaft sensor as well. Considering this, I’m contemplating whether to buy the distributor assembly or just the crankshaft sensor separately and if so where is the crankshaft sensor located. I’m also wondering if I should check the timing despite the timing belt appearing fine and untouched. Once I resolve the spark issue, I plan to address the knock sensor problem. Any guidance would be appreciated as I need the car for work.

 

Welcome to YotaTech.

Well, it sounds like you've just got to replace the immobilizer and the crankshaft position sensor; you've replaced just about everything else!

Whew! Fortunately, you don't have either of those. (The ECU infers the camshaft position from the distributor coils.) But it sounds like you're not getting power to most of those components. You're aware of the "paperclip," so use your multimeter with key-on to look for battery voltage on B+ in the diagnostic port to ground. If that's missing, that explains your problems, and the next place to look is at the EFI fuse.