Ignition cylinder issue
#1
Ignition cylinder issue
Okay I’m at a loss…shocker 😂
so I’m replacing my ignition cylinder with a new one. I’ve installed it and it will turn everything on except turn the motor over.
I can pull the cylinder, stick a screw driver down the barrel and it will turn over. I’ve clocked the little end piece that the ignion piece slides into that the wiring plug engages every way possible and still the same issue. I’ve unplugged it and the end piece turns like it’s supposed to but it wont engage the starter to turn the motor over.
am I missing something or is it just a bad new ignition cylinder?
so I’m replacing my ignition cylinder with a new one. I’ve installed it and it will turn everything on except turn the motor over.
I can pull the cylinder, stick a screw driver down the barrel and it will turn over. I’ve clocked the little end piece that the ignion piece slides into that the wiring plug engages every way possible and still the same issue. I’ve unplugged it and the end piece turns like it’s supposed to but it wont engage the starter to turn the motor over.
am I missing something or is it just a bad new ignition cylinder?
Last edited by Baldy; Mar 7, 2024 at 05:43 PM.
#5
I’m not sure, the old cylinder worked but it would stick in the on position and the key would fall out.
that’s the only reason i changed it out.
A screw driver down the tube starts it.
only other thing I can think of is the little nipple piece that connects to the lock and slides into the electrical portion is somehow not positioned correctly
that’s the only reason i changed it out.
A screw driver down the tube starts it.
only other thing I can think of is the little nipple piece that connects to the lock and slides into the electrical portion is somehow not positioned correctly
#6
You've got only two pieces to focus on, the lock cylinder and the ignition switch. (unless there's damage to the column bracket you haven't mentioned). I'll assume you laid the two cylinders side-by-side and can't find any differences
Without pictures the only things I can think of is if the tail piece of the key cylinder that slides into the switch is different dimension than the old( kinda doubt that) or if the ignition switch is just worn and internally sloppy. Those ignition switches do wear out.
If the lock cylinder wasn't sliding into the ignition switch properly then the detent pin on the side of the lock wouldn't drop into the little hole on the column bracket. You know, to get the lock out of the column you have to put the cylinder in "acc" position and then push in the pin while pulling on the lock at the same time. When you put in the new lock if that pin is locking into that hole than the cylinder went into the switch.
Without pictures the only things I can think of is if the tail piece of the key cylinder that slides into the switch is different dimension than the old( kinda doubt that) or if the ignition switch is just worn and internally sloppy. Those ignition switches do wear out.
If the lock cylinder wasn't sliding into the ignition switch properly then the detent pin on the side of the lock wouldn't drop into the little hole on the column bracket. You know, to get the lock out of the column you have to put the cylinder in "acc" position and then push in the pin while pulling on the lock at the same time. When you put in the new lock if that pin is locking into that hole than the cylinder went into the switch.
Last edited by Jimkola; Mar 11, 2024 at 08:34 AM.
#7
Everything looks to be the same, I’m on my way to pick up another cycle lock and eliminate that. If that doesn’t work I’ll replace the electrical end and if that doesn’t work it will get the push button start
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