Setting/adjusting TPS for 22RE or 3VZE

The FSM procedure for setting up the TPS with a multi-meter is technically correct, but often produces mixed results. It was not the preferred method used by factory-trained technicians back when the 22RE# was commonplace in a dealer service dept. It’s one of the few “short cuts” I endorse, and believe is actually superior to the book method.

The beauty of setting the TPS with a timing light is you’re making adjustments while the TPS is integrated into the overall system, not isolated on a work bench. And the visual confirmation you get from the timing light gives you the confidence that it’s set and done.

This was originally written for the 22RE#, but should work with the 3VZE as well. Just note base timing for the 3VZE will be different.

Set base timing first

1. Get vehicle to operating temp. Idle speed will need to be 950 or less

2. With a jumper wire, connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box. A good connection at these two terminals is important. If you jumped properly you'll see the timing mark move and the check engine light start to flash. Make sure the flashing is showing the "all clear" pattern, and not stored codes. If you have stored codes you can clear by disconnecting the battery for a minute, but make note of the codes you found.

3. Connect the timing light to #1 cylinder and check that timing is at 5 BTDC (22RE#). If not, loosen distributer and adjust. Ideally the distributer adjustment bolt should be somewhat centered in the slot (If the adjusting bolt is at the extreme end of the slot there may be problems elsewhere.)

4. Once base timing is set shut engine off. Leave the jumper wire in place, along with the timing light.

5. Now, loosen the two screws holding the TPS. You'll want them just loose enough so you can rotate the TPS.

6. Restart the vehicle and recheck check timing. It should still be at 5 BTDC. (If not, rotate the TPS counter-clockwise)

Now you come to the actual TPS adjustment

7. With the engine idling and the timing light on the crank timing mark SLOWLY start rotating the TPS clockwise while watching the pulley. As you turn the TPS you should see the timing mark suddenly advance several degrees. STOP turning. Now VERY SLOWLY turn the TPS back the other way. As soon as the timing goes back to 5 BTDC stop and tighten the top TPS screw. What you’re trying to do is set the TPS right BEFORE the timing jumps. Ideally, like the distributer, the setting should be somewhat centered in the adjusting slot. Go ahead and shut down engine and finish tightening the bottom TPS screw and remove your jump wire and timing light.

 

What about if your base timing is not set at 5 BTDC? Mine is somewhere between 8 and 10. 5 felt like garbage when I tried to set it there.

 

What about if your base timing is not set at 5 BTDC? Mine is somewhere between 8 and 10. 5 felt like garbage when I tried to set it there.

If you can't get base timing set that's a topic worthy of it's own thread.

 

I mean, I CAN set it to 5. But we don't like 5. My TPS is set currently according to the manual procedure with the ohm meter but I was just curious to try the timing light method and was wondering if there is a way to do it that doesn't require setting timing to 5.

 

the truck doesn't run at 5*, that's just "base-timing". whenever you are driving, it will be more advanced than that. but if the truck cannot be made to go into base timing at 5*, you will never be able to set the TPS correctly.

you cannot correctly set the TPS by the FSM procedure without first jumping the T and E terminals to get the truck into base timing; and base timing needs to be set at 5*.

once you've set the TPS, you can always change the base timing to something else (as toyota recommended for specific hesitation issues with some '86/'87 ecu trucks, when all else failed to fix the problem).

 

but if the truck cannot be made to go into base timing at 5*, you will never be able to set the TPS correctly.

you cannot correctly set the TPS by the FSM procedure without first jumping the T and E terminals to get the truck into base timing; and base timing needs to be set at 5*.

I CAN set the timing to 5* thats just not where the truck likes to run. As I said, its currently set about 8 to 10* and I have the TPS correctly set using the FSM instructions.

What I am asking is since I'm currently advance to 10* can I use the timing light method as laid out here or do I have to either:

A. Modify the procedure itself to perform it with timing set at 10. If so what modification is needed?
B. Set my timing to 5 and do the procedure exactly as stated then advance my timing back to 10 afterward?
C. Set timing to 5, do thr procedure exactly as stated and once complete must I then leave my timing set at 5?

 

I CAN set the timing to 5* thats just not where the truck likes to run. As I said, its currently set about 8 to 10* and I have the TPS correctly set using the FSM instructions.

What I am asking is since I'm currently advance to 10* can I use the timing light method as laid out here or do I have to either:

A. Modify the procedure itself to perform it with timing set at 10. If so what modification is needed?
B. Set my timing to 5 and do the procedure exactly as stated then advance my timing back to 10 afterward?
C. Set timing to 5, do thr procedure exactly as stated and once complete must I then leave my timing set at 5?

 

I just changed my TPS and I am wanting to set the engine timing and adjust the TPS. I am wondering what is the trick to reach that bottom screw on the TPS? I had to remove my throttle body to get that bottom screw off when changing the TPS.

 

Some change the screws so they can use a ball hex.

when I adjust my TPS I found it quicker to unbolt the throttle body and slide it off enough to loosen the lower screw, then I reinstall the throttle body. I then go through the TPS adjustment and when I have the TPS where I want it I lock down the upper screw so the TPS won’t move. I then slide the throttle body off again, tighten the lower screw, and I’m done.
seems like a lot to do, but I found it quicker to do that than futz with trying to loosen/tighten that lower screw in place.

 

Good Lord I'm an idiot. Why didn't I think of that? Thank you for shaking my head for me. !!!

 

Can I also adjustTPS using timing light on a 3VZE V6 engine as well?

Right now, my 95 4runner does not have any sparks, and I am trying so hard to get spark and get the truck running again.

 

Yes,once you fix your no-spark issue

 

My diagnsis pointed to the air mass flow meter which provide a signal to the ECM which in turn did not give spark. In other words, bad air mass flow meter leads to ECM not giving a signal to the igniter to fire up the wires. I am not getting certain resistance for the air mass flow meter. I want to know if it is possible to rebuild the air mass flow meter?

 

Best to start your own thread. This one is about setting timing and TPS.
In its own thread it would get more views and input. I doubt your "no spark" is afm

 

Jimkola, Thanks very much for this. I was able to fix my hesitation and finally get my timing and TPS position set following these directions.
I would would like to add one thing for inexperienced people like me. For step #2

2. With a jumper wire, connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box.

You will know you have jumpered these terminals correctly because the timing will move when you do so and the Check Engine Light will flash while you have this jumper wire in place.
If the Timing mark doesn't move and you don't have a Flashing Check Engine Light your jumper wire is not making contact.
After experimenting with a few different jumper wires I found that a piece of 18AWG solid wire worked the best.
Also if you have any stored codes they will begin flashing their codes sequences while the E1 and TE1 terminals are jumpered.

 

Glad it worked out for you. I love the procedure, as it gives pretty satisfying results immediately. It may not fix an issue you're trying to resolve, but at least you can feel timing and TPS are now off the table.
I did add your suggestion.
I made a jumper wire using 14 gauge wire and two male terminals. I actually store it in that empty space in the same fuse box. Paper clips, and similar wire do work, but you gotta futz with them to get a good connection.

 

So I tried this and my old girl is idling like a champ.. but as soon as I touch the throttle it revs up and down. Does anyone know why this is happening or how to fix it?

 

How much play to you have in the throttle shaft at the throttle body? Are the seals on either end flogged?
year/engine/etc helpful to know