In frame rebuild
#1
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In frame rebuild, NOT. Pulled the engine.
1994 Pick up. Low oil pressure and burning oil. Fouling out #3 plug.
EDIT! Pulled the engine.
I want to do a quickie in frame rebuild on my 22RE engine. Bearings, rings and a head job. Probably a new oil pump and timing chain guides.
My question, will there be a problem doing this without pulling the engine? Any pointers and/or hints?
BTW, I'm 80 years old and have been an automotive mechanic for 68 years.
EDIT! Pulled the engine.
I want to do a quickie in frame rebuild on my 22RE engine. Bearings, rings and a head job. Probably a new oil pump and timing chain guides.
My question, will there be a problem doing this without pulling the engine? Any pointers and/or hints?
BTW, I'm 80 years old and have been an automotive mechanic for 68 years.
Last edited by Jerry Forrester; 07-25-2023 at 03:15 PM.
#2
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1994 Pick up. Low oil pressure and burning oil. Fouling out #3 plug.
I want to do a quickie in frame rebuild on my 22RE engine. Bearings, rings and a head job. Probably a new oil pump and timing chain guides.
My question, will there be a problem doing this without pulling the engine? Any pointers and/or hints?
BTW, I'm 80 years old and have been an automotive mechanic for 68 years.
I want to do a quickie in frame rebuild on my 22RE engine. Bearings, rings and a head job. Probably a new oil pump and timing chain guides.
My question, will there be a problem doing this without pulling the engine? Any pointers and/or hints?
BTW, I'm 80 years old and have been an automotive mechanic for 68 years.
you would be far better off pulling the engine. Low oil pressure would lead you to believe that it needs main bearings and you can't pull the crankshaft without pulling either the engine or the transmission, so you would have to try to "roll" new bearings in place. I am very skeptical that the outcome would be worth the trouble. Maybe just doing the rod bearings and a new oil pump would help, but I don't believe in maybe.
If it is worth rebuilding it is worth doing it right.
good luck either way.
#3
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I have to agree. I’m not 80 years old, but recently suffered rolling in a bearing set on my 22re project 4runner. I was beat up and sore from lying on the ground and a lot of up and down. And after all that, i had to swap the engine anyway.
It will be easier to access everything if you pull it, but I suspect you already know that.👍🏼
now, if pulling the head first makes it easier for you to access things and pull the engine, I’d do that.
It will be easier to access everything if you pull it, but I suspect you already know that.👍🏼
now, if pulling the head first makes it easier for you to access things and pull the engine, I’d do that.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 07-07-2023 at 01:26 PM.
#4
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You've got 10 years on me,
I have done in frame rebuilds on two different 22re first Gen 4runners.
Hardest thing is keeping the crank and lower block clean when honing the cylinders.
But it can be done.
Good quality NPR pistons are inexpensive, and I replaced pistons on both engines too.
Front differential must be dropped to get the oil pan off,
Not sure how hard it is to drop the pan on 2WD
Both of mine are running well after several years and ten's of thousands of miles.
I have done in frame rebuilds on two different 22re first Gen 4runners.
Hardest thing is keeping the crank and lower block clean when honing the cylinders.
But it can be done.
Good quality NPR pistons are inexpensive, and I replaced pistons on both engines too.
Front differential must be dropped to get the oil pan off,
Not sure how hard it is to drop the pan on 2WD
Both of mine are running well after several years and ten's of thousands of miles.
Last edited by millball; 07-07-2023 at 03:46 PM.
#5
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Pulling the engine
I have decided to pull the engine.
I've got everything loose on the top side.
Tomorrow I'll put it on the lift and loosen everything underneath. I was planning to pull just the engine and leave the transmission in place but I just read my Chilton manual and it says to pull the engine and transmission as a unit.
This is a 1994 2WD PU 22re 5 speed.
My question is for you guys that regularly work on these PU's..,..., Why can't I leave the transmission in place.
Thanks in advance for the quick replies.
I've got everything loose on the top side.
Tomorrow I'll put it on the lift and loosen everything underneath. I was planning to pull just the engine and leave the transmission in place but I just read my Chilton manual and it says to pull the engine and transmission as a unit.
This is a 1994 2WD PU 22re 5 speed.
My question is for you guys that regularly work on these PU's..,..., Why can't I leave the transmission in place.
Thanks in advance for the quick replies.
#6
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You can, just did my 874runner. Bellhousing bolts are no fun to get to or torque converter bolts if automatic. I don’t have a lift or much room to work so it was the best choice to leave the trans.
#7
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Jerry - I think your problem leaving the tranny in place is that the trans input shaft is there and it might not be easy to slide the engine away from the tranny with tranny bolted in place. You might be able to get the engine out this way, but I have a hard time imagining installing the engine and trying to sit it in the mounts and also line up the clutch disc with the transmission input....just seems way too frustrating and might be impossible. Since yours is 2wd and you don't have to worry about the tcase hanging off the back, I'd just pull the engine and tranny together, leave them mated up and pull them both at once.
Edit
I just saw Melrose's response, he left tranny in place and pulled the engine, so maybe putting it back with the tranny sitting there is not as hard as I imagine it to be.
Edit
I just saw Melrose's response, he left tranny in place and pulled the engine, so maybe putting it back with the tranny sitting there is not as hard as I imagine it to be.
Last edited by coryc85; 07-20-2023 at 12:22 PM.
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#9
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I pulled the tranny 4 or 5 years ago to install a new clutch assembly. I don't remember having any trouble with the bell housing bolts. But then again, I am 80 and tend to forget a lot of things. LoL
#10
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Jerry - I think your problem leaving the tranny in place is that the trans input shaft is there and it might not be easy to slide the engine away from the tranny with tranny bolted in place. You might be able to get the engine out this way, but I have a hard time imagining installing the engine and trying to sit it in the mounts and also line up the clutch disc with the transmission input....just seems way too frustrating and might be impossible. Since yours is 2wd and you don't have to worry about the tcase hanging off the back, I'd just pull the engine and tranny together, leave them mated up and pull them both at once.
Edit
I just saw Melrose's response, he left tranny in place and pulled the engine, so maybe putting it back with the tranny sitting there is not as hard as I imagine it to be.
Edit
I just saw Melrose's response, he left tranny in place and pulled the engine, so maybe putting it back with the tranny sitting there is not as hard as I imagine it to be.
In my 68 years of pulling wrenches I have pulled and installed many engines without pulling the transmission.
WHen installing the engine, the trick to get the clutch splines to line up is, put the tranny in high gear, jack up one of the back wheels and have someone turn that wheel a bit.
After this job is done I'll report back and tell everyone how it went.
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millball (07-20-2023)
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BTW, this job will probably be a long drawn out affair. The temperatures are in the upper 90,s with the humidity to match the temperature. I can only put in about 3 hours before I'm fully exhausted and wringing wet. Drinking lots water, staying hydrated.
#12
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I've pulled a lot of 22RE's and never pulled the trans with it. Just the way I prefer to do it. Different strokes I guess. Good luck with it. And I hope I'm still able to work on stuff in the garage when I'm 80.
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Jimkola (07-22-2023)
#13
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i've pulled the 22re from both of my '87 4runners a few times. i've never pulled the motor with the transmission, and have had zero issue reinstalling. much easier to remove only the engine rather than the engine-transmission-(in your case) - and transfer case (in my case).
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Jimkola (07-22-2023)
#14
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Well, yesterday (Friday) I managed to get everything disconnected from the engine. It's ready to pull out. My hands and arms look like I've been in a fight with a bobcat and he had a ballpeen hammer as well as claws. I'm going out of town for the weekend so I probably won't get back on the Yota until Tuesday. Getting old ain't for sissies.
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#15
this sounds like me and I'm only 52, it has made me start wondering about all those immunizations I got in the military. Best of luck and keep chipping away!
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Last Friday I got everything disconnected from the engine. I went out of town for the weekend and got started back on the Yota today (Tuesday). Hooked the chain to the engine and the cherry picker and started to pull the engine and the only thing I missed when I disconnected everything (almost) was the little ground wire on the back of the head and of course that steel bolt was seized in the aluminum head and twisted off. I'll have to drill that out before I put the engine back in. Had to go to Lowe's to get 2ea. M12-1.25 x 80mm bolts to bolt the engine onto the engine stand. Got the engine mounted on the engine stand and called it a day. TTFN
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millball (07-25-2023)
#17
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I forget which bolt that is that the ground strap goes to, but if not critical for another reason, i’d ignore it and put the ground on another one.
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It looks like a couple rod journals on the crankshaft need to be polished. The mains are ok. Does anyone make.002 oversized rod bearings? Doing a curososory on the net, I didn't see any.
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