I may have messed up . . .

I bought some 16" TRD wheels assuming (yes, that word) they would bolt up to my 93 Pickup project. The bolt hole patter is fine obviously but the center bore does not clear my manual hubs.

The manual hubs are a must because I like them but also I can not fit an ADD diff due to the 1UZ oil pan :-)

First world problems, any one remember a thread by someone who has mounted these?

Cheers, Chris



Close but so far away


Hub nuts interfere here


Faster, faster, faster

 

You could try a wheel spacer to space it out past the nuts.

or take them to a machine shop and have the center bored out.

 

Did you ever figure out a solution?

I was looking to put these rims on my 92.
I’m bummed out as I thought they’d fit over the hubs too

I saw another guy on a different forum had the same problem and he went and bored out the rims to 108mm. Don’t know know how the rims were like afterwards but it seems that did the truck

 

My solution was similar to others, I bored out the lip on the outboard edge of the rims.

I do not have a CNC, Mill, or Lathe at home so it was with a router and flush bit with the bearing up high at the collet. Go slow and take just a little bit of depth at a time, then a bit more, etc.

This 'solution' may not be to everyones liking, leaving an exposed area of raw aluminum. I solved that with a black permanent marker. The center caps will not longer fit since the lip is gone, I will sell the center caps since they are expensive and in demand.

I thought I had a close up of the wheel mounted and the locking hub, they clear the nuts and cone washers by 5mm or so.

fyi - The wheel weights seem excessive to me too but those tires are very worn MT's and the previous owner/shop did not put any weights on the outboard side. I think you could do this behind the simulock's for better balance. Future will tell once I get the suspension done.

Cheers, Chris

 

That trucks sick!

I've been looking everywhere for an answer, so far you're the only one whos gotten back, so thanks!

So now I know for sure there needs to be some machining done to make it work. Doesn't look to complicated or dangerous, but I'll let a machine shop deal with the cutting.

Quick two questions:
Do you have a lift on your truck or is it stock?
Did you have any trouble with the tires rubbing? I saw you're using 265/75/R16 tires

 

The 'lift' was done by the previous owner. In the rear they put in 2 of each size leaf, so doubling of an OEM pack. The front has some black powder coated torsion bars with a TRD sticker on them. It is atrocious and rides like a buckboard. The tires do not rub, but that is partly due to the spring rate's being equal to an F350.

All of that is coming off, I have a Sequoia axle and Deavers for the rear and full Total Chaos suspension for the front. Parts are on the shelf but this next phase will have to wait for fall. I need to replace the engine in my Subaru so I have a daily driver and good winter car to get to the ski resorts.

Cheers, Chris

 

Having a look at the wheel bore it would appear that it is possible to machine a small groove where the interference of the ADD/manual hub cover nut/bolts are, thereby allowing the TRD hub caps to still be used. The lip having grooves might be ok, if the spring in the cap sits firmly. If someone wants to test it, I would be keen to hear back.
(I often use the configs and specs from T100/4Runner (2nd Gen) for our 97-04 Hilux models RZN169, VZN167, KZN165, in Australia.)

Regards, Andrew