Hello everyone. I have a 1986 Toyota 22RE. Trying to keep it in tip top shape. I had some transmission issues last year so I picked up a new rebuilt one. Not even a year later I noticed fluid seeping from the bell housing. Upon inspection it seemed it may be gear oil. Dropped the transmission yesterday in the garage and to my dismay, it looks like the input shaft seal is the issue..It also looked like fluid was seeping out of the gear shifter gasket as well. Here are some pics of the situation..Just want to make sure I made the right diagnosis..

Now for the mechanics...Is changing this seal something that a guy like me with rudimentary mechanic skills can handle? Or should I take it to a professional and have them do the seal. Thanks for you help


This is where it was leaking and I noticed I had an issue

transmission out, full of crud..The transmission was a barely a year into the vehicle..It should still be somewhat clean and shiny

Looks like a big ˟˟˟˟ was taken in here.

culprit, input shaft seal?

 

Replacing the input seal is pretty easy. I'd pull that retainer plate off, then pop the seal out and put in a new one. So besides the seal you'd need that retainer gasket, too.
I personally would use oem gasket and seal. I like gaskacinch for the paper gaskets.(easy to clean the next time you have to go in)
make sure the clutch disc is free of oil. I assume that got replaced when trans was done.
The shifter has two gaskets. The shifter itself has a fairly small square paper gasket with four bolts. The shifter plate below that, as I recall, is a rubber gasket held in with 6 bolts. I think there were smaller spacer washers that kept you from squishing the rubber too much. Make sure you have all the spacers before you put the trans back in. Its easy to have them fall inside during disassembly.(if I'm wrong about this someone please correct)

 

thanks for the reply. The clutch was replaced right before I had to do the transmission and it still looks pretty good. I found a couple gasket kits that will work for the shifters. I think oil was seeping out through them as well. I definitely try to keep it oem.

Im trying to find the proper part number for the input shaft seal...
https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/tra...oil-deflector/
It doesnt say this part comes with the paper gasket. I cant find it online either...

There's a lot of parts I need to get ordered tomorrow.

 

You would be well served to forget the paper seal housing gasket and just reassemble the clean seal housing using a thin coat of Permatex Ultra-Gray.

 

I use EPC-data.com/toyota or amayama to get part numbers.
But before you start, go out to your vehicle and get the model number from the plate under the hood. It'll be on the firewall. Sometimes on the inner fender. kinda looks like a vin-but is mostly letters. Then grab the production date off the plate in the left door jam. Modern electronic parts catalogs(EPC) use the vin number, but bitd everything was referenced off the model number. If you still have problems finding part numbers then send me a pm.
FIPG(form in place gasket) is great stuff as Millball mentioned. But every bit of oil needs to be removed. I mean perfectly. One bead of oil running across the mating surface will ruin everything.

 

I got on the phone with Yota 1 this morning (that's where I got the rebuilt trans) hopefully they'll do something about it..The trans is barely a year old.

I guess I'll degrease this bad boy today. I'll post pics when it's done.

 

I had the same leak on my W56. Replaced the gasket and was good for almost one year then it started leaking again. My input shaft had too much play due to worn input bearing.

Grab your input shaft and shake the ˟˟˟˟ out of it. If it has play, your input bearing is shot.

 

thanks for the heads up! I just bought the rebuilt trans last year, so I hope I dont have that issue. I was cleaning it yesterday and when I tried to remove the bellhousing, the bolts wouldn't budge...are these things usually torqued with red loctite? I'd like to finish degreasing this thing before the parts show up.

Thanks

 

torque on the bellhousing bolts is 27 ft lb.
Maybe they used an 18v impact to assemble. I start all bolts by hand, then drive in with a light-weight impact, finishing off with a torque wrench.
Curious to what brand of seal they used.

 

when you shake the input shaft, can there be no play? It maybe shifts a millimeter

 

I got the bellhousing pretty much cleaned up..gonna throw some paint on it today when the mail comes. I noticed I may have an issue..


I think I need to pull that out, and re tap the hole it came from..I have no idea how I was able to get that out.🤯

 

I should probably get a service manual too..is there one that is recommended?

 

Aluminum isn't very forgiving, I kinda doubt tapping is going to do much. But it's worth giving it a shot.
I usually end up using a helicoil. You can get a metric kit on Amazon for a fair price
I haven't found paint wearing very well on aluminum(I actually powder coat as much as I can these days.) I used a fine wire wheel on a drill, in conjunction with liberal amounts of WD40, to clean my bellhousing/transmission/transfer. Still looks like this three years later.
The only manual I'd recommend is the factory service manual. The real score is getting the Toyota EWD manual(electrical wiring diagrams). It's not just schematics. It has the connectors, the wire color at each pin, map of connector locations, testing info, etc etc

 

another question...😂😂🤦‍♂️

Im pretty sure this is the "reverse/4wd" light...I could be wrong. I can't seem to find the right infor, hence my previous post...




Does this wire look right? Am I missing something here? I had noticed when I got the clutch done (a buddy in OR did it) I lost my speedo and 4wd dash light. Turns out the speedo wire was pinched, bought a new one that I'll run to the dash when I re install this bad boy. I just want to make sure everything is tip top before I hook it back up...

I might even get a wild hair to rebuild the t-case...but Im currently resisting that. I need my truck back 😝

thanks again

 

That wire was in a connector that plugs in above the transmission near the bellhousing. There's two connectors iirc. People often don't notice them when dropping the transmission and pull the wires out of the connectors.
If you climb under the vehicle you'll see them. They may not be instantly obvious, as the male-female connectors are still plugged together.
Reverse and 4wd have separate senders.

 

Should I add some kind of sealant to the bolts before I torque (18 ft-lb) them down? Also, should I add ultra grey to the paper gasket? Or just use that in lieu of? I don't want this to leak again..

 

Thread sealant on the bolts is recommended.
if using permatex ultra gray you wouldn’t use the paper gasket.

 

I think the paper failed me..should I just use Ultra grey?

 

That’s your call. When new Toyota used the paper gasket and had no issues. The rebuilder most likely didn’t clean well or tightened improperly. I do recommend an adhesive like gaskacinch when using paper.
when I rebuilt the Suzuki Samurai trans it had been leaking from just about every conceivable gasket or seal on the thing. When I reassembled I used the Toyota trans FIPG(reddish-brown) and no paper gasket. Worked great.

The good thing about paper is it’s forgiving. If there’s trace amounts of oil on the mating surfaces it won’t adversely affect the gasket(I said trace amounts). With sealants designed to replace the paper you need to get both surfaces absolutely clean, and stay that way until you add the sealant and mate the parts together. One bead of oil seeping down can ruin everything.
The other tricky part is getting just the right amount of sealant. You want enough so when you tighten the bolts you can see it squish out, but that’s it. You don’t want it to gush out as you tighten.

 

question on trans fluid. I've read that I should use GL4 75/90, can's find that at the local store. I have this stuff, but I don't think it's the right fluid...What does everyone run?