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10w30 or 10w40 for a Phoenix AZ 3.0vze?

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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 07:48 PM
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From: Phoenix AZ
10w30 or 10w40 for a Phoenix AZ 3.0vze?

What do you guys think? Currently running 10w40 in my 1990 @ 232,000. I change oil and filter pretty frequently; 3 months / 3,000 miles. The FSM recommends 10w30 even over 100F, which has me wondering if 10w40 might be too thick. It gets hot here, but the truck is rarely driven in temps much over 110F. Just trying to minimize wear on the old guy, of course.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 07:54 PM
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From: Southern Arizona
10-40 is fine.
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Old Apr 20, 2022 | 11:36 AM
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I used 10W-30 in my 87 pickup and 4Runner from te day I bought them, and I drove them daily (mostly the pickup) over 50 miles each way to/from work. Whatever the temp was in Yuma, for 20 years or so. And you know as well as I that it gets over 110° often there.
10W40 works fine though, as well. I used that in the bikes I used as DD's as well, with no troubles. They were all air cooled, so I wanted the thicker, heavier, oil for them.

Good luck!
Pat☺
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Old Apr 20, 2022 | 12:53 PM
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I've been running Castrol GTX 10W-40 in my 86 22RE since I bought it new 36 years ago. I just bought 3 oil changes worth of oil as 10W-40 oil of any kind is getting hard to find. I may have to switch to 10w-30 regular or 5w-40 synthetic next.
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Old Apr 20, 2022 | 05:03 PM
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I think it would not make any difference one way or the other.
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 12:18 AM
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From: Pleasanton Ca
Too many issues with 10-40 causing sludge issues and cocking up the piston rings in many auto's of the 80's and 90's. I'd stick with 10-30 unless you want to give 15/40 a try.
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 05:28 AM
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From: Fresno
Originally Posted by 84sr5yoty
Too many issues with 10-40 causing sludge issues and cocking up the piston rings in many auto's of the 80's and 90's. I'd stick with 10-30 unless you want to give 15/40 a try.
Never heard that before, but it's not unreasonable. I've been using Walmart SuperTech 10-30 full synthetic since I got my '89 with 144,000 miles 18 years ago. Three thousand/3 months changes generally. No smoke; no oil consumption issues. Before that it was whatever major brand Chevron, Havoline, Shell, etc. was on sale. Now 197,000 miles and 10-30 works for me here in very warm (every day 100*+, occasionally 110* or so) Fresno CA summers. IMO the oils advertised as super superior provide no significant benefits for the super price. But just call me "Cheap Charlie" otherwise known as value-conscious shopper or thrifty person...
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 06:07 AM
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From: Pleasanton Ca
Sounds like what you're using is working just fine. I'd stick with it.
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 06:53 AM
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Bought new in 1986 Toyota Truck 2WD SR5 X-cab 22RE. It's been my only vehicle and daily driver for 36 years and 478,500 miles.

Break-in oil changes were: 1st at 500 miles, 2nd at 2000 miles, and 3rd at 5000 miles, I have change my oil every 5000 miles +/- 100 miles, or so. Always use that bad Dino oil, Castrol GTX 10W-40, year round in SE VA. It still starts on 1st crank within seconds, idles smoother than a 22RE ought too, and doesn't burn enough oil between change to notice on the dip stick. Oil pressure is very good.

Sadly, any conventional 10W-40 oil is getting harder to find, including Castrol GTX. I loaded up for the next 3 oil changes, but may have to switch to Castrol Edge 5W-40. It's even cheaper than some GTX I've seen for sale.

I also change my transmission and differential every 100,000 miles. I don't do any towing or off roading. Both still original as well.

Last edited by JoeS; Apr 21, 2022 at 06:55 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 06:56 AM
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10W-40 is fine see my post. No sludge what so ever over 36 years.
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Old Apr 23, 2022 | 09:06 PM
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From: Arkansas
Originally Posted by JoeS
Bought new in 1986 Toyota Truck 2WD SR5 X-cab 22RE. It's been my only vehicle and daily driver for 36 years and 478,500 miles.

Break-in oil changes were: 1st at 500 miles, 2nd at 2000 miles, and 3rd at 5000 miles, I have change my oil every 5000 miles +/- 100 miles, or so. Always use that bad Dino oil, Castrol GTX 10W-40, year round in SE VA. It still starts on 1st crank within seconds, idles smoother than a 22RE ought too, and doesn't burn enough oil between change to notice on the dip stick. Oil pressure is very good.

Sadly, any conventional 10W-40 oil is getting harder to find, including Castrol GTX. I loaded up for the next 3 oil changes, but may have to switch to Castrol Edge 5W-40. It's even cheaper than some GTX I've seen for sale.

I also change my transmission and differential every 100,000 miles. I don't do any towing or off roading. Both still original as well.
3.0 now at appr 370,000 miles. I have used Rotella T4 10w30 and 15w40 for the past 10 years. Always changed oil between 3 and 5k miles except now it's about every 6 months due to few miles. Absolutely no oil burn despite all the fun I've had at above 3,500 rpm.
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Old Apr 24, 2022 | 01:39 AM
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Thanks for the input guys. Ive been running Castrol GTX 10w40 syn-blend, haven't had any issues or noticed anything funky when doing changes, but wanted to be sure. I assume the previous owner was running the same since he handed over some spare 10w40 with the truck when I bought it. I may swap over to 10w30 here in the cooler months to try and avoid any viscosity issues in cooler temperatures. As I understand it, thicker oil resists breaking down in hotter temps, but I have a feeling that I change my oil often enough that it probably doesn't break down much anyway by the time it gets replaced.
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Old Apr 24, 2022 | 03:37 AM
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From: SouthEastVirginia
If you want to switch for cooler months, then using a 10W-30 is no different than a 10W-40. The 10W is the cold temp viscosity and that will be the same. Try using a 5W-40 or 5W-30. I'd use a 5W-40 full synthetic all year your area.
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