10w30 or 10w40 for a Phoenix AZ 3.0vze?
#1
10w30 or 10w40 for a Phoenix AZ 3.0vze?
What do you guys think? Currently running 10w40 in my 1990 @ 232,000. I change oil and filter pretty frequently; 3 months / 3,000 miles. The FSM recommends 10w30 even over 100F, which has me wondering if 10w40 might be too thick. It gets hot here, but the truck is rarely driven in temps much over 110F. Just trying to minimize wear on the old guy, of course.
#3
I used 10W-30 in my 87 pickup and 4Runner from te day I bought them, and I drove them daily (mostly the pickup) over 50 miles each way to/from work. Whatever the temp was in Yuma, for 20 years or so. And you know as well as I that it gets over 110° often there.
10W40 works fine though, as well. I used that in the bikes I used as DD's as well, with no troubles. They were all air cooled, so I wanted the thicker, heavier, oil for them.
Good luck!
Pat☺
10W40 works fine though, as well. I used that in the bikes I used as DD's as well, with no troubles. They were all air cooled, so I wanted the thicker, heavier, oil for them.
Good luck!
Pat☺
#4
I've been running Castrol GTX 10W-40 in my 86 22RE since I bought it new 36 years ago. I just bought 3 oil changes worth of oil as 10W-40 oil of any kind is getting hard to find. I may have to switch to 10w-30 regular or 5w-40 synthetic next.
#7
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#9
Bought new in 1986 Toyota Truck 2WD SR5 X-cab 22RE. It's been my only vehicle and daily driver for 36 years and 478,500 miles.
Break-in oil changes were: 1st at 500 miles, 2nd at 2000 miles, and 3rd at 5000 miles, I have change my oil every 5000 miles +/- 100 miles, or so. Always use that bad Dino oil, Castrol GTX 10W-40, year round in SE VA. It still starts on 1st crank within seconds, idles smoother than a 22RE ought too, and doesn't burn enough oil between change to notice on the dip stick. Oil pressure is very good.
Sadly, any conventional 10W-40 oil is getting harder to find, including Castrol GTX. I loaded up for the next 3 oil changes, but may have to switch to Castrol Edge 5W-40. It's even cheaper than some GTX I've seen for sale.
I also change my transmission and differential every 100,000 miles. I don't do any towing or off roading. Both still original as well.
Break-in oil changes were: 1st at 500 miles, 2nd at 2000 miles, and 3rd at 5000 miles, I have change my oil every 5000 miles +/- 100 miles, or so. Always use that bad Dino oil, Castrol GTX 10W-40, year round in SE VA. It still starts on 1st crank within seconds, idles smoother than a 22RE ought too, and doesn't burn enough oil between change to notice on the dip stick. Oil pressure is very good.
Sadly, any conventional 10W-40 oil is getting harder to find, including Castrol GTX. I loaded up for the next 3 oil changes, but may have to switch to Castrol Edge 5W-40. It's even cheaper than some GTX I've seen for sale.
I also change my transmission and differential every 100,000 miles. I don't do any towing or off roading. Both still original as well.
Last edited by JoeS; Apr 21, 2022 at 06:55 AM.
#11
Bought new in 1986 Toyota Truck 2WD SR5 X-cab 22RE. It's been my only vehicle and daily driver for 36 years and 478,500 miles.
Break-in oil changes were: 1st at 500 miles, 2nd at 2000 miles, and 3rd at 5000 miles, I have change my oil every 5000 miles +/- 100 miles, or so. Always use that bad Dino oil, Castrol GTX 10W-40, year round in SE VA. It still starts on 1st crank within seconds, idles smoother than a 22RE ought too, and doesn't burn enough oil between change to notice on the dip stick. Oil pressure is very good.
Sadly, any conventional 10W-40 oil is getting harder to find, including Castrol GTX. I loaded up for the next 3 oil changes, but may have to switch to Castrol Edge 5W-40. It's even cheaper than some GTX I've seen for sale.
I also change my transmission and differential every 100,000 miles. I don't do any towing or off roading. Both still original as well.
Break-in oil changes were: 1st at 500 miles, 2nd at 2000 miles, and 3rd at 5000 miles, I have change my oil every 5000 miles +/- 100 miles, or so. Always use that bad Dino oil, Castrol GTX 10W-40, year round in SE VA. It still starts on 1st crank within seconds, idles smoother than a 22RE ought too, and doesn't burn enough oil between change to notice on the dip stick. Oil pressure is very good.
Sadly, any conventional 10W-40 oil is getting harder to find, including Castrol GTX. I loaded up for the next 3 oil changes, but may have to switch to Castrol Edge 5W-40. It's even cheaper than some GTX I've seen for sale.
I also change my transmission and differential every 100,000 miles. I don't do any towing or off roading. Both still original as well.
#12
Thanks for the input guys. Ive been running Castrol GTX 10w40 syn-blend, haven't had any issues or noticed anything funky when doing changes, but wanted to be sure. I assume the previous owner was running the same since he handed over some spare 10w40 with the truck when I bought it. I may swap over to 10w30 here in the cooler months to try and avoid any viscosity issues in cooler temperatures. As I understand it, thicker oil resists breaking down in hotter temps, but I have a feeling that I change my oil often enough that it probably doesn't break down much anyway by the time it gets replaced.
#13
If you want to switch for cooler months, then using a 10W-30 is no different than a 10W-40. The 10W is the cold temp viscosity and that will be the same. Try using a 5W-40 or 5W-30. I'd use a 5W-40 full synthetic all year your area.
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