Hey! I'm sure this has been asked many times before but I haven't quite found what I need.

I have a 1986 4runner. My friend has a junk 1985 pickup, $600 and I can have the axle. What all will I need to take other then the axle and knuckles themselves?

[1] I know the solid axle is narrower then IFS, should I just use spacers for that or is there something better?

[2] Would an IFS front diff carrier fit inside the axle? I have 4.56 gearing in the 4runner and I think the solid axle one is 4.10.

[3] Should I try using the leafs and shock mounts or should I just save up and buy those new/from a SAS kit. I will have to buy the front mount thing and shackle mounts so maybe I'll buy the other things too.

[4] I know I have to buy a high steer kit, should I take the old style steering linkage as well or just leave it on the junk truck?

Thanks

 

1. I used 1.5" wheel spacers and the factory SFA wheel hubs on my SAS. Allows you to keep the factory SFA rotor and caliper or use an FJ60 rotor and a 1988 4R/PU V6 caliper. The other option is to use your IFS 4R/PU wheel hubs to push the wheels out. This requires using Tacoma rotors which fit over the wheel studs. The IFS wheel hub must be turned down to fit into the Tacoma rotor hat. Then the studs are a bit shorter so not as much engagement with the lug nuts unless you source longer wheel studs. Then the rotor you use fits onto the knuckle weird and you'll have to space it out with washers and/or grind tabs to make it line up right with the rotor. Seemed like not a super clean setup so I use the wheel spacers, FJ rotors, and V6 calipers.

2. IFS diff will not at all work in the SFA axle housing. SFA axle housing uses a Toyota 8 inch third member. It uses the same third member as what's in the back of your 1986 4Runner though. IFS front diffs from the first gen 4Runners are 7.5 and a different architecture altogether.

3. The factory solid axle frames have a taller arch over the front axle when compared to the IFS frames. You'll see solid axle swapped trucks have a few inches of lift In order to have adequate travel. This is because with zero lift the IFS frame would be nearly resting on the axle. Factory solid axle leaf packs are fairly flat (no arch) especially after nearly 40 years of holding a truck up. You're probably better off building a RUF (rear's up front) pack or buying a leaf pack. Since you're using a different leaf pack, you'll need longer shocks most likely, so you should buy shock hoops.

4. No part of the factory SFA steering will be needed for your SAS.

 

Every one of those questions can be answered by a little research. Or YouTube.

 

When I did mine I got the TG SAS kit and I feel that it was a good move, everything you need except the axle and I think the high steer kit. look it up.
brake rotors and spacers were included.