fwiw I love this truck.
it's been wonderful to own and so reliable that I may have let it go too far without more maintenance. Which is why this post is here. I recently lost my job and want to fix up amap (all I have is hand tools).

Winter is coming, any special recommendations for our old 4x's?
also:
I need shocks but want a smoother ride.

Where should the t-bars be set at and what are they for?

Brake maintenance. Are drilled/slotted rotors worth it?


Last year I replaced the heater core, did a thorough coolant flush, replaced the PS pump 3 years ago, and recently did a slave cylinder fix (not master cylinder yet)... the last time I touched the brakes was about 5 years ago with a flush.

I've been out of the scene a while and wonder what the best places online to get parts from (or any to avoid) and also need to replace my:

shocks
brakes (at least fronts are due)
t-bars (I really don't know what they do or how I should adjust them for a softer ride)
diff/t-fer case/tranny flush (does the tranny take the same fluid (90weight)?
oil-pressure gauge doesn't function (replaced gauge about 9 years ago)
and
I want new bucket seats if there's any recommendations for them too.

thanks for reading/replying.

 

your suspension needs will depend on your use and mods, if its a stock truck just get some light duty KYB or whatever the factory equivalent is now. any auto parts store or online parts house (rock auto) will have these for fairly cheap. torsion bars are not something that generally gets replaced unless they get damaged. they are adjusted via the adjuster bolts on the rear end of the bars, roughly directly underneath the seats along the frame rails. adjust them as needed to level height or account for loading (heavier bumper or winch etc). the factory brake setup is plenty for factory sized tires but will be lacking if you go bigger, use the search bar here for LOTS of brake upgrade options including the very common LC and V6 swaps. your oil gage most likely quit working because the sender went out on the engine. common seat swaps are form newer gen trucks and 4runners, prelude, scions, use the search bar for a few more options. as far as winterizing them, thats not really a thing. its not a skidoo, just the normal things like wiper fluid and coolant needs to be rated for your areas temps. in extreme conditions some people change their oil viscosity.

 

If I may add a little: If the brake fluid is 5 years old, it is time to change it out, without question. It absorbs water from the atmosphere, and degrades. It also picks up any sort of contanimation that might enter the system. It should be changed about every 3 years at most. I do mine every 2 years. If it's not the nice, straw colored, clear fluid that comes out of the bottle new, change it!
Don't forget to do the LSPV last in the flushing order. Take the bar that goes down to the axle from the LSPV off at the axle end, and move it through it's throw while flushing it. It's amazing how much crud builds up in that thing.

When you do the shocks, don't forget the steering stabilizer shock. It makes a big difference in the steering.

The tranny takes the same weight as the diffs, but the other GL rating. I believe the diffs take the GL-5, and the tranny takes the GL-4. It matters. If it gets pretty cold where you are, say 0° F consistently, you might consider 75W-90, instead of straight 90 weight.
Same consideration for the engine oil. If you normally use 10W-30, but you get a lot of cold weather, you might consider going to 5W-30, or even 5W-20 oil. It makes it a lot easier on the engine when it first starts up.

If it's been a long time since you flushed and replaced the coolant, now is a good time. Use the red, Toyota coolant, not the generic green coolant. It matters in the engines we have, with the iron block and aluminum head. Differential metal corrosion is a problem they have have. The green coolant aggravates this, and the red reduces it a great deal. Maybe check and/or replace the thermostat as well. Better now than in the middle of winter
Take a look down inside the radiator through the cap opening. Look for corrosion build up that may be blocking the down tubes. If they are clogged, the ones you can see, most probably are. If they are, time to replace the radiator, I'm afraid.

Don't forget the usual tune up stuff, either. Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and so forth. They matter too. Use OEM parts wherever you can. I put a dab of silicon dielectric grease in the plug wires. Both ends. It keeps the crud out, and any water that may splash up there. It happens!
Check your idle speed and timing. Good time to do it if you haven't in years.
Maybe check the valve lash.
And the PCV valve. Be wary of the PCV's grommet in the valve cover. It gets brittle and can fall apart in little chunks when you try to remove the PCV. Best to do it while the valve cover is off, to keep little bits falling down into the valves. Again, use an OEM PCV and grommet.

Ok, ok, shutting up now. Good luck to ya!
Pat☺

 

BIG PRECAUTION about adjusting the torsion bars. On a 1988 truck, the adjusting bolt and nut are very likely rusted together, which means when you try to turn the nut the bolt will likely twist and shear off. When that happens the torsion bar will unwind VIOLENTLY, and drive the adjusting nut and broken end of the bolt up through the floor board. To reduce damage and risk of SERIOUS injury, do the following:

1) soak the bolts and adjusting nuts in PB blaster for a couple of days ahead of time
2) Jack up the front end by the frame to droop the suspension fully and reduce tension in the torsion bars before starting to work on the adjustment bolts.
3) Slide an 8x8" plate of 1/8" steel between the bolt end and the floor board to avoid damaging the floor board.
4) wear goggles, gloves, and a face shield
5) Keep your hands well away from the adjusting nut. DO NOT put your fingers on top of the bolt end to hold the wrench on the nut. Let the wrench holding the adjusting nut turn until it jams up against the frame, get your hands clear, and then put your breaker bar on the bolt head and pull until something gives. Either the nut will break loose and start turning on the bolt like it's supposed to or the bolt will shear. You'll know which one happened by the color of your underwear.

I've attached the pertinent manual pages to help you out. The adjustment nut and bolt are at the right end of the picture.

Be safe!

 

you guys are great and thank you all...
Had to look up LSPV and glad I did... didn't expect it to even exist let alone be in the back.
also, I may not want to touch the torsion bars due until I know what I'm doing and if I even want to or how much and is it worth it.

I've always used proper coolant but also didn't know about the pvc valve being a possible failure point on brittle.

thanks again.

 

Good call on the torsion bars, I personally have never had a reason to touch them, my truck rides like hell and it is what it is, it’s an old pickup, it’s part of the experience

By hell I mean normal.

 

I adjusted the torsion bars in my pickup a little, as I gained weight over the years. <ahem>
I just wanted it to ride level when I was alone in it. It was my DD, for an hour's trip each way. It seemed to keep the ride like it was when I bought it pretty new in 88. Guy that owned it before me worked where I did, and bought it new to haul his Harley around to events. It just didn't have the "oomph" he wanted, so he traded it in for something else. I don't remember what, now. Traded a 78 Chevy Luv 4WD pickup, read Isuzu Trooper II with a chevy body, for it. Good deal, it really was.
I got a nearly new truck, 33K miles on it. Over the years of making the drives to/from work, we just kinda formed to match each other. Now, it's my bestest friend. Other than my lovely wife, that is. Heh, it has 375,000 miles on it, and every time it turned over the next 100,000 mile mark, I'd pull over right where I was, get out, and do the "Happy Toyota Dance" around it. Made 3 Arizona State troopers laugh their tails off, at least. I was just amazed with my Little Truck.
Heck, my middle daughter (of 3) learned to drive in it years ago. Now she wants to buy it to teach her 3 sons to drive manual tranny cars. Incredible staying power these things have!

I do the basic stuff on it every spring, but other than the few adjustments of the torsion bars, I am NOT a suspension guy. The front end is STILL aligned, BTW. I can let go of the wheel and it'll drive along straight and level. Incredible, to me.

I'd leave your Torsion Bars alone, unless one breaks. Check them. I've seen some with grease zerks on them. If yours have them, usually at the rear end, I think, lube em up real good with Moly grease, but other than that...

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

Your sig says Seattle so you don't need to worry about changing lubricant selection for winter. I grew up and lived in the area till I was 30 and had my Yota since I started driving.

I would highly recommend Redline MT-90 for the transmission and either their 75W90 or heavy duty shockproof gear oil for the T-case and diffs. I've had great luck with them and hold up a bit better to long service intervals.
Many yotatech users will swear by the MT-90 especially. Our manual transmissions love this stuff.