Hello, I bought a 86 4runner running and a wrecked 88 running both 22re and both manual. The 86 was running but the number one cylinder was down. I got to looking around and noticed the fuel injectors were all zip tied on and not the correct ones. The connectors were also just twisted together and taped. So I pulled it in my shop, Pulled the engine wire harness from the 88 and the fuel injectors from the 88. Installed it all on the 86 and now I have a slow crank. I have searched for two days and can't find my situation. Below is what I have tested and what I have done. Any help is appreciated.

1. Brand new battery.
2. Tested both starters and they are both good.
3. Wired a relay in place of the factory starter relay connecting to the factory plug.
4. Tested all injectors before install.
5. Removed all belts thinking maybe a pully was locking up.
6. Cleaned and checked all ground points.
7. Connected a trigger straight from the battery to the starter (no change in crank).
8. Changed out the computer.
9. Checked timing and it is set at 5* at TDC.
10. I can turn the engine over easy at crank bolt.

There are the 3 sensors on top of the 88 that are not on my 86 and the 86 does not have the IACV under the throttle body but the throttle bodies are different. The truck would crank fine before I changed it out. I just don't know where to go from here. Thanks in advance.

 

A wire you didn't check, that I could tell: The large cable that goes from the battery + directly down to the starter, and bolts on under a rubber cover.

I would either replace it right off, or at least test it carefully. Clean the terminal with some baking soda and water paste, and/or use one of those battery terminal cleaner tools
On both the battery post, and the terminal that connects to it. You should also disconnect both ends of the cable and clean them thoroughly with a brass wire brush. Or replace it with a new-made cable. That cable is prone to getting acid mist down inside the insulation. This can cause the strands to break, and corrode through, down inside the insulation where you can't see it happening. Especially if the cable's insulation is open. Besides, having a bunch of cables bolted all over the battery terminals just looks sloppy, to me.
I made new cables for both my 87's, both positive and negative. I switched to "marine" terminals, which only have a screw post standing up on it to put cables on, held down with a wing-nut. That way, you can easily take the correct size cable, I use 1-0, crimp a good sized ring terminal on it, and slide some meltwall heat shrink down over it. At least as far as the point the ring terminal becomes circular. This way, it keeps the battery acid mist that comes out of the battery out from inside the insulation. It also keeps the cabling organized neatly, and very easy to remove and reinstall during trouble shooting and repair. If you have more than one truck, using marine terminals allows you to quickly and easily swap batteries between trucks. Unscrew the wing nuts on both battery terminals, remove and replace the battery, leaving the marine terminals in place on the battery, and when you've got the other battery installed, the cables just slide down on, and wing nut them in place. Very quick simple procedure. Useful for if you do something like leave the lights on <ahem> and need to drive the truck right away. Not that *I* ever did that...
Something else that helps is to switch to the Optima type gel-cell batteries. They don't produce nearly the same acid mist when charging as the regular, lead-acid batteries do. Speaking of, you might want to get you current battery load tested. Not just check the voltage it produces, but how does it perform under a heavy load. Most auto parts stores have decent load-testers, and will check your battery for free.

Finally, you might want to check the key-switch contacts, in the steering column. They are prone to corrosion buildup, which can cause this problem.

Good luck to ya! Let us know how things go for you...
Pat☺

 

Thank you for your advice. I have replaced both battery terminals. And replace the main battery wire to the starter.. The connections on the back side of the key Ignition look in great shape. I just don't understand how changing the injectors and the wiring harness for the engine would cause it to have this issue when it did not have it before. Again thank you for any and all advice.

 

Ok, since you made a new cable straight down to the starter, and tested the starter(s), cleaned the grounds, and so on, all I can think is that the battery went south on you, or has a parasitic drain. It'd have to be a big one though.

Have you taken the battery in for a load test? Have you tested the voltage ON the starter, where the big cable comes in? Both static, and cranking? Since you tried a trigger directly to the starter from the battery, you know it's not the trigger voltage. You tested the starter, and I presume the solenoid was good.

You're running out of parts. I am really leaning towards the battery is bad under load. "New" is no warranty of "good". Only other possibilities are the cable to the starter, which is new, and, I hope, plenty big enough to carry the load, or the contact it attaches to. If the starter spun at normal speed during a bench test, chances are good it's functioning properly. Only other part I can think it could possibly be is the battery. Again, a battery under a heavy load, like the starter, is entirely different than a battery under a "no-load" condition. Get it load tested someplace. It might take going to an auto parts store, but it's free, so...

Whatever it turns out to be, I wish you a speedy solution to the problem!
Sorry I'm not more helpful.
Pat☺

 

So you were right. I took both starters in and they tested good at Advance auto. Put it on the truck and did a load test on the starter end. Volts went from 12.6 to 2.4. That means it is a bad starter right?

 

No, it means it's a bad battery. If the starter had a short, loading the voltage to it down when cranking, it would have shown up during the bench test at Advance Auto. When they spun the starter on their bench, in other words, it would have loaded out their power supply, whatever it is.
So, when you installed it on the truck, and tested the voltage going to it while cranking, it loaded down. The starter already proved it doesn't do that on the bench test. This leaves two possibilities. The battery, and the cable. Since you manufactured a new cable yourself, and I'm going to presume you did it properly, that leaves only one possible part. The battery.

Try putting you multimeter, in VOLTs mode, across the battery terminals, and crank the starter. I'll wager it drops from 12.6 to 2.4, as it does at the end attached to the starter. This means that there's, probably, a shorted cell, or a corrosion buildup in one cell, in the battery. Take the battery to your Advance Auto, and ask them to do a load test on it. See what they say.

Let us know how things go
Pat☺

 

Solved. I did a load test on the negative side and found the ground I built was bad. Went and bought a prebuilt cable and it started right up. Thanks again for all your help.

 

Glad you got it fixed!
Now, figure out what you did wrong manufacturing the cable, so it doesn't happen the next time

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

Dumb question. What pre built cable did you buy? Part #. brand, where you bought it? Help the lazy please.