Í have the above stated vehicle that is driving me up the wall. It will start with fluid but something immediately vuts the fuel. I have read all the threads here I can find I have checked the MAF (I have it propped open,) I have replaced the coil, the distributor, the ignition switch, plugs, wires, 80v alternator switch< all fuses, the circuit opening relay, the EFI relay, the fuel filter, the pump is fine it humms like an opera singer when the battery is charged. It is really sluggish to crank as well I advanced timing a little bit didn't help. Cold start injector is spraying I have plenty of fuel pressure but when I return the key to the on position something cuts the fuel. I tried putting it in diagnostic mode to read the codes but apparently my check engine light doesn't work or I don't have one, I have checked the grounds, I have replaced the coolant temp sensor as well I know it works in conjunction with the cold start, I bought this thing a month ago and have driven it once and now I have too much money in her to duck and run can anyone offer a suggestion? Please refrain from making smart aleck comments to try and make yourself look smarter than everyone else, I really have tried to do my research before asking a question about a topic so widely written about I am just hitting a wall here... thanks in advance for your help.

 

For clarification, how did you test the cold start injector? And describe your "key on cuts fuel off" process because I'm having a hard time envisioning what is going on before the key turn.

 

I'm also curious as to what the voltage drops to when you turn the key without attempting to start

 

When I turn the key it starts, with starting fluid but then dies once it burns off. But you can hear the injector spraying and when I crack the nut loose on the fuel rail its like a firehose. I have a pressure gauge but cant find a place to put it on and the lines are rigid. As far as the voltage, lemme check and I will get back to you. Are you thinking voltage reg? I was too its built into the alternator. I love Yotas but this design was ill engineered

 

This is the classic sign of a problem in the VAF-COR circuit. Here's what I know about diagnosing that issue: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/

[You don't have a MAF (mass-air-flow) sensor, you have a VAF (volume-air-flow) sensor. Different technology. If you don't care, just call it an AFM and you'll always be correct.]

Does your fuel pressure gauge have the common Schraeder connector? You'll need a banjo-to-schraeder adapter. On the 22re the "usual" place to plumb that in is at the CSI; it takes a 10mm adapter. (On the 3VZE, at the FPR with a 12mm adapter e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Banjo-Bolt-...-/251254996574).

Don't forget that every fuel connection you "cracked" requires new crush washers. From the dealer, cheaper than dirt even there. You don't want to be the guy standing by the side of the road next to a bonfire.

Your rig came from the factory with a CEL; if it doesn't light with key-on you may just have a burned out bulb. If you fear more extensive butchery (or if you just want to check for codes before you pull the combination meter), the CEL power can be picked up at the W pin of the diagnostic connector. You might be able to read it with a multimeter, but at 0.5Hz it will probably be easier to just use a test-light to ground.

You've replaced an awful lot of parts. Was that all for your starts-then-quits issue, or were you working on other things?

 

BTW I will call it the VAF from now on, thank you for correcting my ignorance no sarcasm intended.

 

Thanks Scópé will do that check first thing in the morning. Í think the starter is fried as well, this thing had 2 inches of mud caked underneath her that had been there for a WHILE so Í figured a lot of stuff needs replacement.
please excuse the spanish accenting Í don't know WTF is going on with this phone either

 

If it cranks, the starter, the solenoid, wiring, and starter relay are all ok, although with the slow cranking might be any of those parts. If it had mud caked on the starter, the slow crank could be the connection of the battery + to starter cable being corroded. Or the solenoid just being worn out. After all, how long has the solenoid been operating the starter? Since 94? The solenoid can be removed and rebuilt without having to remove the starter, but it's kind of a pita, so make SURE that's the problem before you start removing.

As to the fuel pump: You make it sound as though the fuel pump runs with the key in STArt position, but not in the ON position once it catches, is that correct? Definitely sounds like a VAF/COR problem. Since you replaced the COR already, my money is on the VAF, or the wiring, although a new COR is no absolute garuntee that it's working properly. Most likely yes, it's fine, but you can't be certain without verifying it. Something to leave for later, if there's absolutely nothing else possibly wrong.
Since the pump runs with the key in Start position, if I understand what you're saying correctly, the wiring from the cab back to the pump is good. Just leaves the VAF or it's wiring. You can verify the VAF by reading between the pins Fc and E1, with the cable removed. That's the far left pin, and the one next to it. The ohms between the two should be infinity with the vane closed, like when no air is flowing through the VAF, and zero with the vane open, even just a small amount. Since you're reading the functions of a simple switch, the orientation of the meter leads doesn't matter. If that checks out, well, that leaves the wiring.

Hope something in all my rambling is a little help...
Pat☺

 

Thank you very much. Its actually the opposite. i have fuel with poeer on but when i turn to start the voltage goes way down I havent measured it bit I can hear it drop to minimal at best.

 

Thank you very much. Its actually the opposite. i have fuel with poeer on but when i turn to start the voltage goes way down I havent measured it bit I can hear it drop to minimal at best.

 

That's normal. When the starter is engaged, the system voltage will drop, since the starter puts a pretty hefty load on the battery. There should still be enough power from the battery to run the fuel pump, until the engine spins fast enough to get the alternator providing the system power.
Having said that, if the starter is loading the system beyond the battery's ability to compensate, you could have A) an old, worn out starter, or solenoid, that's loading down the system too much, or B) a bad battery, that's gotten weak. They only last 3-5 years, after all. Make certain the battery terminals are clean inside, where they clamp onto the posts, the posts on the battery itself are clean and shiney under the terminals, and where the cables that attach to the terminals are clean, with no corrosion under connections.
Make sure the "far" ends of the cables from the battery are clean and free of corrosion as well. There's at least 2 on each terminal. One from the positive directly to the starter, providing to main power to turn the starter, and one to the fuse box, via a fusible link. The negative should have 2 as well, one down to the engine block, which provides the ground to the starter, among other things, and one to the body, for most of the rest of the system grounds. Both cables on both terminals must be clean and corrosion free at both ends.
The ground from the head to the firewall, and the ground for the alternator, going up to the power steering pump mounting bracket, are also both important. The one from the head to the firewall provides the ground to the injectors, and the spark plugs. Very important.

Finally, the contacts in the keyswitch can develop a build up of corrosion on them. Reduces the power available to the starter. Something to check.

Good luck!
Pat☺