Hey folks. I just swapped my 1995 V6 3.0 cluster to an SR5 unit and the tachometer is not working at all. I ran a wire from the what I believe is the proper “yellow” distributor coil wire to the back of the gauge cluster “p” position as indicated in other posts; no movement. The voltage reading is about 1.1V. How many volts are needed to run the tachometer? Am I tapped into the proper wire on the coil? Any help with this would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Id also like to swap my tach, let me know if all goes well. Ty


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A user named “scope103” posted a picture years ago (see below) that perfectly details were to tap. My tachometer is working perfectly now. I’ll do a more detailed write up with pictures later.

 

From the the distributor coil, I tapped into to the second wire from the end (the one labeled “GR to tach” in the previous picture I re-posted). If I had time, I would’ve bought quick splice t-terminals because they’re cleaner and waterproof. I had to do it the old fashioned way and solder the ends and later add wire loom. After that, I ran the 18 gauge wire to the dash cluster via the rubber grommet just below the windshield on the driver’s side. I connected to the letter “p” position behind the cluster. I used a crimped on ring connector to screw onto the cluster. I started it up and the tach worked perfectly. Perhaps tapping the yellow wire mentioned elsewhere must apply to other models, apparently not mine. For a 1995 3.0 V6, this method worked perfectly.

 

Side notes: Looks from the top pic like a couple of the wires have gotten crushed, or at least hot enough to soften the insulation. In the top plug, the WB wire, looks worst off. Maybe a burn-through right at the plug. The RB wire, same plug looks like it's been crushed, too, but not as bad. Same with the other plug. BR looks crushed a bit. I'm sure there are others. I would ohm them out while moving and flexing them to verify there's no chance they have problems.

I'm not one to criticize others solder jobs...well, ok, I am. Instead of a T join, I would have used a tight Y configuration. Instead of electrical tape, which will come unglued over time, you could have used some good FIT-300 heat shrink on it in the Y configuration. Keep everything that might be floating around the engine compartment...fuel, coolant, battery acid mist, etc...from getting to you solder join, and corroding it to failure.

Just my opinion. I did spend my working life as a radar tech, and went to school for this kind of thing when I was in the Corps. If you think the nastys floating around a cars engine compartment are bad, you should see what's running around in a military jet!
I wish you the best!
Pat☺

 

Your way sounds way better. Guess I should’ve learned a real skill in the Corps, instead I was just an 0311. I’ll look into what you said about the wires, thanks!

 

You DID learn a real skill, brother. You learned to be a MARINE. That's something special most don't have

Keep us up on how things go for ya.
Semper Fi!
Pat☺