waiting on battery charger now as it died. cranks fine. have fuel from cold start injector, grounds connected, timing is set. not getting any codes. Starting to really frustrate me.

 

Check the plugs for spark yet?
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Well, you need only a few things to make an internal combustion engine run. Fuel, air, compression, spark. Sounds like you've verified fuel, so far. Do the injectors have +12VDC on them when trying to start, and a good ground on the other side of their plug?
Have you checked to see if there's spark? Take a plug wire off, pull back the hood and hold it near a ground point with insulated pliers. Wear gloves, too. Those wires can bite, hard. Have a friend crank the engine over, and look for a spark to jump off the end of the plug wire. If no spark, why? Ohm out the wires, including the coil wire.
A small note: I've seen new distributor caps not work due to a hairline crack in them. You have verified the pick-up coil in the distributor has the correct resistance, and the air gap is correct?
If that's good, you've eliminated 2 possibilities. Have you verified the MAF and the TPS are both good? Check the resistance readings for them. Make sure their plugs are seated correctly. Make sure the tube between the MAF and the TPS is good. No cracks, especially in the corner pieces. Make sure all the vacuum lines are all in good shape, and going to/from the right points. Does the vane in the MAF turn on the fuel pump when opened, even a little bit?
Get a compression tester, and check the cylinders for the proper compression.

Something in all that isn't correct. You just have to find the one that's not doing it's job.
Let us know how it goes for you!
Pat☺

 

did notice a hairline crack in the distributor cap when reassembling it. gonna run back down to the garage at 6 when my battery charger arrives. let ya know what i come up with once i do the above. thank you

 

just noticed my radio wont turn on. it was on before the rebuild.

 

The radio is not on the EFI circuit, but it sure sounds like you blew a fuse somewhere. Make your job easier; use a multimeter. There is a pair of exposed metal tabs on the back of each AT0 fuse, check for battery voltage on each tab (if one has voltage and the other doesn't, bad fuse. If neither has voltage, no power to the fuse.)

QuiGonJon recommended checking for spark. The smart way to do this is with the inductive pickup of your timing light (you DO have a timing light, don't you?). Put the pickup on each plug wire; if the light doesn't flash, you're not getting spark.

 

yes have a timing light. grabbing a multimeter now.

 

it started! charged the battery and started right up. was going in circles for a bit. little water in oil from when seal broke on head gasket. only had distilled water in the motor at the time. torqued her back up when look aroud the timing chain and water pump yesterday. that ok? should i change oil? letting air get out system and checking for leaks. wish i just charged the battery from the start. why did i loosen the head! thanks everyone!

 

Glad she's ALIVE
thanks for posting your conclusion

 

It lives! Yaaay!

If you have one little drop of water in the oil, CHANGE THE OIL!! If you can see even a tiny drop of water, what's mixed in the oil? How has it affected the viscosity, especially cold? Better by far to be safe, and change the oil and filter before you find answers to those questions the hard way. I would do a hot-change of the oil. Run the engine until it's good-n-warm, fully up to operating temp, THEN change the oil. Watch out! The oil will be HOT.

Second, is there the slightest evidence of oil in the water?? It's good you're using distilled water, but you really should have the Toyota Red coolant in it too. It protects the metal in the cooling system, as well as making the freezing/boiling points what the system is designed for.
What happens if you get a cold snap, the water freezes, and you blow out a freeze plug, or two? Worse, what if the freeze plugs DON'T blow out? Will the block crack? What about the heater core? You want to replace that, just because there's no coolant in the water? Will the throttle body crack? Ice has some incredible expansion. It will crack a steel block with no problem at all.
All that could happen. Better to be safe, drain the water, and put in the Toyota coolant and distilled water, 50/50 mix.
Don't forget to burp the system properly, too. You might be surprized what even a small bubble can do in the cooling system.

By the way, when did you check/change the thermostat? While you have the system drained, may as well replace it with a new one. Small price for the insurance of a new thermostat. An old thermostat could fail at any moment. If it fails closed, or even part way closed, you get an overheat, the head gasket fails etc.
Get a two-stage thermostat, too It dramatically reduces the swing-high problem these trucks have. Essential? No, good idea, yes.

Good idea to change the coolant every couple years, too. When you do, replace the thermostat. Well worth the slight cost involved.

Good luck to you!
Pat☺