Does anybody have the correct part number for Worm Shaft Housing Upper Oil Seal?
Thanks in Advance!
My power steering box is leaking at the top end near where "Intermediate Shaft" (steering column) connects...


The bottom end near pitman arm is dry...


I need the seal for that upper part.

FSM DOES NOT HAVE PART NUMBER

However, Toyota Parts Deal does not have illustrated Parts Breakdown and I am getting different PN's from McGeorge Toyota.
First McGeorge gave me PN 90311-18010. When I looked it up, it pointed to #13 in IPB, the bottom seal. I brought this to their attention and they gave me another PN 90310-36002 which also pointed to #13.

90311-18010 Points to #13, Bottom Seal


90310-36002 Also Points to #13, the Bottom Seal

BTW, in Ruben Gonzales' video below, he merely taps the outer nut (with notches) and the adjusting screw (middle nut with spanner wrench holes) spins with it.
1) Isn't the correct procedure to adjust the middle screw, Hold it in position with spanner wrench, and tighten outer lock nut?
2) Does anybody know what size spanner wrench to use?

REFERENCE VIDEOS
Replacing Seal

Remove Steering Box IF NECESSARY (Start T 3:52 video)

 

I don’t have an answer for you but I wish every post asking for help was as detailed as yours. <3

 

you want 90311-18001 seal, oil (for steering worm)
$4.64 at toyota parts deal.

looks to have been superceded by 90311-18010. so, that number might be right, even if it points to the sector shaft.

and, hey, the msrp on the toyota site for a complete steering gear box is.............$4297.xx

 

Thanks, guys! I got clear answer from Lakeland Toyota. It is indeed part number 90311-18010. Unfortunately, TPD does not have illustrated parts breakdown that I prefer to have to be exact.

COURTESY LAKELAND TOYOTA

DANG! That's more that what I paid for the truck - LOL!
I'm glad I do not have any steering problem. I guess, I better make sure the the gear box is well-hydrated and maintained. Which leads me to next concern, Any tips for draining/ bleeding?

BTW, many illustrated parts breakdowns online are mirror image of our U.S. model steering box. Lakeland Toyota's is correct.

 

i don’t use tpd to find the part, i find the part # and then search for vendors.

 

I use megazip.net to locate the part number (I prefer their web interface), then I search for the best price (sometimes it's megazip, even with shipping).

 

NICE! Never heard of it before. Thanks, @CCDave . It's best to go by illustrated parts breakdown because a picture paints a thousand words, and part names vary too much.
The picture also matches U.S. truck parts, just like Lakeland Toyota's does.

 

Related video courtesy of Alexman Videos:

 

...also...if you replace the seal, I'd advise replacing the adjacent bearing as well. Seals often fail when the bearing has too much runout.

 

Good @Blueman ! Researching that process if possible to replace bearing without digging much into the box. Looks like it may involve messing with the part with the ball bearings. If so, I'll just do the $5 (part) job, then keep an eye for further leaks.

 

Upon further inspection, based on the pictures, does it look like worse that just the seal? This was after my 7 or so hour drive from Bridgeport, CA.
If worse than the seal, I would need to get rebuilt non-OEM because the latter costs more than 50% of what I paid for the truck. A couple of choices I've seen below.
Do you know of a better deal on rebuilt steering gear box?



Toyota Parts Deal - Lowest Price on OEM


Rock Auto - Long lead-time because I would have to send my old one in for rebuild.

NAPA- $372 before tax and core charge. Can be picked up from local store in a couple of days and I would not have to bother with packaging to ship core.

Pics of problem after long drive from Bridgeport, CA...

 

Hi guys,
Would you please confirm if gear box to cooler and cooler to reservoir hoses are just bulk hoses?
TIA

 

i'd just replace the seal and see how it goes. might save you about $400 or so. but, if it doesn't work, the work to replace the seal would be wasted. i guess it depends on whether you are willing to make that bet.

 

What's your trick to remove a stubborn pitman arm? Already soaked with PB Blaster for several days. Maybe try acid to dissolve any rust?
Here's my setup. Maybe a correct socket with breaker bar?


I just ordered gear box and high-pressure hose from NAPA. Better to save on my man-hours.

 

rebuilt in USA - 3 year warranty $249, + core, with free shipping.

rebuilt in USA - 3 year warranty same unit, but sold directly by the rebuilder. free shipping, may or may not have a core charge.

 

the pitman arms are stubborn. you will really need to crank it, till it breaks free. it will sound like the tool itself broke when it finally lets go. BANG!!

edit - yes, correct socket and breaker bar. you won't get it with just a ratchet.

 

Thanks, @wallytoo
Dang, I wish I had seen that earlier.
-Ray

 

I bought a rebuilt gear box from these folks:Red head steering
it wasn't cheap but the box looked good and I haven't leaked a drop of ATF since I installed last February.
they even took my disassembled gear box as the core after a failed rebuild attempt.
Also, getting that pitman arm off suuuucked.. It took a press and a blowtorch

 

Thanks, BlackPearl! Yes, I've just heard of Red Head Steering. Turns out the NAPA one I got is also a rebuild "TOYODA", so I have high hopes for it.

ONE LESSON LEARNT from this: READ THE FRIGGIN' MANUAL - LOL!
I read the instructions for the pitman arm puller I borrowed from Autozone (OReillys's is too small) and it turns out pitman arm is removed the old-fashioned way, with a BFH. I could swing the BFH better if truck were jacked up, but was too lazy to do it.
Brought back memories of a multiple choice question during our exam in Naval Tech Training Center, Memphis... What tool do you use to remove the rectifier (or something) (1) BFH, (2) Special Service Tool ... LOL!


With the tool, aside from the expected "BANG!" of the BFH, the process turned out to be methodical and controlled. Tighten the pressure bolt, Hit with BFH, watch the splined shaft slowly creep out of the pitman arm eye, tighten the "claws", tighten the pressure bolt, repeat. I could have swung BFH better if I jacked the truck up, but was to lazy to setup the jack LOL! I'll jack it up so I can align wheels better when I re-install the gear box.

 

I recently replaced these hoses on my 87 with bulk hose from local parts store and no issues so far after about 50 miles of driving. I had to shop around to find the hose with an inner and outer dimension to match the oem hose. First two stops had stock hose with slightly smaller OD. I was concerned a smaller OD might cause a seal problem for the original Toyota hose clamps.