Been replacing little thing here and there try to figure this problem out. I have replaced the cap and rotor, ignition coil, spark plugs, mechanical fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel tank, fuel tank suction assembly, intake manifold gasket, and rebuilt the carburetor. I have adjusted the timing as well. But I am still get the same issue. My next step might be replacing the distributor vacuum advance but I don't want to spend $200 on a new one if I dont have to. When I try to accelerate it seams like the motor completely shuts off until I release the pedal. Its almost like it is not firing at all when it does that. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

We can't read it when it's that color. Try changing your text color to white, so we can read it, then we can help you
Pat☺

 

that is weird. it was in black and I could read it just fine. But if I change it to white I cant see it at all lol. Hopefully this blue will work.

 

It could be the Pick Up coil in the distributor, under the roter. I had a Celica with a 22R back in the early 90's that acted similar. I replaced it and it ran fine. Just another idea.

 

Sounds like it's running lean, or not getting the fuel it needs to accelerate.

You can check the vacuum advance easily enough. Pull the top vacuum line, at it's far end, and, with the distributor cap off, apply a little suction to the vacuum line. You can use your mouth, a vacuum pump, whatever. Watch the base plate inside the distributor, the flat part under the rotor. You can see where the arm from the advance module comes in an attaches to the base plate. If it moves as you apply vacuum to the line to the advance, the advance is good. The more vacuum, the more it will move, up to a point. Hold the vacuum for a few seconds, to be sure it doesn't move back on it's own. If it moves back, whether slowly or quickly, the vacuum advance module is definitely bad, presuming a known good vacuum line on it.

Another possibility is a cracked distributor cap. I ran into that with mine, once. It's rare, but it happens.
Is the center wire going to the distributor from the coil good? You can ohm it out with a multimeter. Alternatively, you can pull a plug wire, and hold it, with a pair of insulated pliers, near the engine metal someplace and see if you have a spark jump. That will tell you the center wire, and at least that one plug wire, are good. Do NOT touch any part of the truck if you try this. You're liable to get bit, as we e-techs call it. Hurts too.

Did you check the connections to the coil and the ignitor? Did you ohm them both out according to the FSM?

Are you certain all the vacuum lines are running correctly, both ends? ALL the vacuum lines? The 22R has a bunch, more than even the 22RE.

Are you certain you set the spark advance at 5° BTDC at idle when you set the timing? That idle RPM was right about 800, plus or minus, when you set the idle timing?

Did you set the mixture IAW the FSM?

Is the fuel level in the bowl right about level to the two little wedges on the sight glass, no matter what? Accelerating, decelerating, whatever.
Did you pull the top off the air cleaner, and LOOK down the carb throat, while it's running? Is the choke plate fully open when it's warmed up? Do you see fuel being injected into the carb throat when you try to accelerate? A little squirt from the small tube coming into the carb throat when you advance the throttle? You can do that manually while looking down the cab throat. I know, I've done it often. I believe the side you're looking at is the throat on the passenger side, when it's running normally.
If no squirt, there's a problem with the carb rebuild you did, inside or outside.
Are you absolutely positive you got all the little actuator arms on the outside of the carb back into the right places? You might think about tracing them all out, to be certain that they are all connected to the right places, at both ends. Anybody can make a mistake, even me, if you can believe it

I hope something in all my rambling helps. I am sure one of the true pros will chime in, though, with the obvious, in hind sight, thing causing the whole problem. I hope so, anyway!
Good luck to you!
Pat☺

 

I'll look into that stuff. Thanks for the info.

 

I know it's a lot, but heck, it all matters.
I'm sure you are certain about some of it, but a quick double check can't hurt anything. I do it whenever I do anything on my two.
Good thing, too. I took my 4Runner to a "reputable" mechanic's shop for a new timing chain and new CV joints. Before I drive either of my trucks, ANYwhere, I always do a quick check under the hood, and just in general. Fluids, connections, whatever. The guy who had worked on it (new), hadn't connected ANY of the vacuum lines, the water pump was leaking like a sieve, the battery was dead, because the alternator had a short to ground in it, and he had, for some unknown reason, stuck a screwdriver in the sidewall of one of the tires.
The shop lost money on that one. They fixed it ALL, to MY satisfaction.
Point is, if I hadn't double checked, as I do habitually, I wouldn't have caught all this, and tried to drive it away. Wouldn't have gotten far, but then I would have had to pay for a tow. A quick look to make sure things were right to drive, saved a lot of money, and aggravation.

I wish you all the best!
Pat☺