Hey all -

I'm wrapping up my timing chain job on my 22re and I just re-sealed the oil pan with FIPG. I was reading the FSM but it is a little confusing with the instructions (see below) on where to put the bead. I put the bead in the middle of oil pan lip (going into the little grooves) and then on the inside of the bolt holes. My bead was on the thinner side, but it is mostly continuous (I did have to re-touch a few areas). I really do not want to put everything back together only to find it leaking. Is this the correct procedure? I still have basically everything disconnected that needs to be out of the way to access the oil pan so if I have to re-do, I would rather do it now. Also, I threaded the bolts in probably within 10 minutes of putting the FIPG on the oil pan and then torqued them down once I had them all finger tight - is this also correct? Or did I wait too long? Thanks!

 

Hi:
The way I read the example that you show is as follows;
A.) Wherever there is a groove, in the groove.
B.) Wherever there is a bolt hole, inside of the bolt hole location, (closer to the sump).
C.) Wherever there is no groove, .20 inches from the lip edge of the sump.
The FIPG should be continuous all the way around the pan, and a 10 minute time span till tightening the bolts should present no problem.
A thin bead is the way to go. I have found oil pickup strainers semi-clogged with chunks of all kinds of form-a-gasket stuff from over generous use.
Hope I was helpful.

Art.

 

There’s always going to be a slight leap of faith when it comes to fipg application, but you look good. Cleaning the block and oil pan mating surfaces is key. Most fipg failures I’ve seen has been when oil contaminated the surfaces.

 

Ok, I know we are talking about RTV here but in 45 years of working on cars I've never heard "FIPG". Somebody help me with that...

 

Form in place gasket. I only use the Toyota or Aisin brand. There might be other stuff out there that’ll work, but for me I’m not willing to take the chance.

 

That makes way more sense. Toyota should hire you to write their manuals.

 

I scraped both sides down with a plastic scraper and then used brake cleaner on the pan mating surface and a clean paper towel on the block. Should be good?

 

I cleaned the block and oil pan surfaces(scraped, then sanded) until it was shiny metal, as I was paranoid about leaks, too. Brake cleaner should be fine, and dries fast.

 

I've realized I thought the diagram was a top-down view whereas it is actually a profile view.

 

Also Permatex "the Right Stuff." https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/
The reason you use FIPG (or equivalents) is because it sets VERY fast (Permatex recommends assembly within 5 minutes, or you have to start all over). This is useful if you're a real mechanic, you never have to re-position anything, and you need to get this truck out of the bay to get to work on the next vehicle. Me, not so much. I like having a little more "open time," so that if something goes slightly wrong I'm not screwed. So I always use RTV. You need to let it set (I let it go overnight), but I'm not in that much of a hurry.

 

When I worked as a mechanic at Toyota we would use the stuff all the time. I would always wait until the fipg would start to form a skin much like what happens when you heat up nacho cheese. So uou should be perfectly fine with 10 minutes. I have done many timing cover seals on 4.0v6s