So here’s the story. I just installed a new head on the old runner. Got everything back together and she’s fire right up and idles beautifully but the second I give it gas, she’s starts sputtering and the check engine light flashes (the check engine light is not on otherwise). I know how to turn a wrench but I’m no pro. My guess is it might have something to do with the grounds. It’s had numerous people wrenching under the hood through its life so I’m not certain if the grounds are in factory location. Any help in this situation is always greatly appreciated!

 

Have you checked for codes?

 

Have you checked ignition timing? start with the basic things.

(The flickering CEL is probably just due to the engine stopping, but it, too, is part of "basic things.")

 

I have. From what I can tell, it gave me a code 1 which to my knowledge means there are no codes stored

 

timing is in spec. If it was out would it make the CEL flicker like that?

 

Scope is right, check the timing you had to stab the distributor, double check plug wires are in proper order, check to make sure all the wire harness connections are plugged in and secure (plastic plugs might be secure, but make sure male/female terminals are actually engaged)

Do you have a voltmeter?
https://us.autologic.com/news/how-to...tage-drop-test
Voltage drop test those grounds to confirm or rule out your ground issue theory.

Throttle it up by hand and giggle harness connections

 

1st pic, redundant, also grotty, and not listed in either of my Toyota electrical manuals.
​​​​​2nd pic, redundant.
3rd pic, also redundant
(All three of these are redundant to the last picture. Multipath grounds aren't needed nor helpful, setups like this cause a phenomena called ground bounce which is essentially an RF noise which is bad for things like radio broadcasting and computers. The proper way to do it is what's called a "star ground", which essentially means one end of all the grounds come back to a central location.)
.. But I digress
4th pic, close but not where it goes. (The wire remembers where it wants to be, look at the bends in it, it wants to be behind the distributor under the top rear bolt of the power steering pump bracket. This bolt has an extra flat washer on it the others don't and isn't fully painted. It will work there where you have it if you cleaned off the paint both where you attached it and off the back side of the brack where it contacts the block. This is the reference ground for your alternator..)
5th and last picture, this is your engine ground it provides high current ground for everything attached to the engine as well as the efi computer. It's close enough to where the factory put it but looks really dirty and routed under tension, ID suggest cleaning it up and routing it above the AC line.

...
Is any of that related to your not being able to throttle up the engine? Maybe not, but clean grounds aren't going to hurt it any, and that fourth ground isn't helping most likely.

 

+1 for checking timing. I replaced my cylinder head recently and had to adjust the TPS sensor and set the timing properly. Might not be related but this was my experience.

 

Did you change the fuel filter? Very easy to get the fuel filter installed backwards because of the way the fuel lines loop around. Not sure if it will work backwards or not, or if it even impedes flow.

 

Fuel was my thought as well, timing also possible. Choke it by blocking the air intake partially and see if that make the sputter better or worse. If it does you could be running rich or lean.