Hey guys,

I was just curious about the timing in my 4runner. It is running well, but I wanted to check for curiosity. Did exactly what I did with my 22re (and per FSM) and jumpered my E1 and TE1. No reduction in my rpm's. The check engine light flashed so I know the connection was made. This a well cared for 4unner with 255,xxx kms and I still can get 19/19.5 mpg on the highway if I really milk it. So, in my mind, the engine is running well. Having said that I am still curious about being unable to accurately set the timing per FSM. I've read that it could be related to the MAF sensor. Maybe the TPS? Anyone had the same issue and solved it?

 

Two things are required to get the engine to run at base timing.
1) TE1 must be jumpered to E1. You appear to have done that successfully (the blinking light)
2) The TPS idle switch must be closed. If the TPS is defective or mis-adjusted, that won't happen and the engine will not run at base timing.

If the only thing wrong is the TPS switch, it will have very little effect on normal engine operation, since you seldom run at idle.

You'll need to get out your ohm meter to troubleshoot the TPS. The attached file will show you how.

 

What timing DOES your light show, with and without the jumper???

 

I had the same problem with my 22RE, jumping TE1 and E1 did not drop the RPM down and show me base timing, other than that truck ran fine, I just wanted to check base timing and check for stored codes. It was because the TPS was out of adjustment, I followed the step by step on 4Crawlers site to adjust it back into spec, works like it should now. I'll look for the link, not sure if the adjustment procedure is the same for 22RE and 3VZE though.

 

Great question. Jumpered (but not working) and not jumpered (850 rpm) I'm reading about 10 degrees, with little jumps to 13 ish degrees.

 

One thing I have always found strange was the vast spread in 'acceptable' ohm readings. Maybe it is not all the significant, but the allowable resistance readings could be substantially different between engines.

Thanks for the FSM quick link.

 

Well, I wouldn't mess with it too much when it's getting 19mpg and a little better. That's about as good as it gets with a 3vz.

My '95 'Runner will make 20 once in a while, but usually 18.5 to 19.5.

 

Most of the values are given just to establish whether or not the TPS is still sound and fit for further service.

The only adjustment that can be made to the TPS is to position it so that it sends the 'throttle closed' signal when the throttle plate is actually closed, and that that signal quits when the throttle plate is opened ever so slightly.

 

Just had the same issue. Jumper didn't do squat. Adjusted the TPS worked like a charm.