I need MacGyver of Toyota here, my problem:

1984 Toyota Pickup 22R, base, 2 wheel drive, naturally aspirated

I was replacing valve seals with engine in car without removing head and when I got to #4 intake valve and removed the valve spring I noticed the valve guide was broken off were the retaining clip groove is, pretty much flush with the top of the head. I really do not want to remove the head and looking for genius that has the right fix for this.

Right now I am thinking lovering the #4 cylinder just enough that the valve slides about half way the guide, use 3/8 tap to cut some thread into the guide, about 1/2 inch deep, using bolts, nut and spacers to try to pull the broken guide out of the head and pressing/tapping new guide in from top.

Any chance that my work? if not what is the downside of just reassembling everything with the broken piece and new seal on top of it just being loose on valve shaft? Prolly not best but will it even work?

Thanks for any info or help.

 

You've already compromised the headgasket by removing the rocker assembly..

Lift the head off and fix it right.

 

Really good point. I’m not sure anyone has ever untorqued a 20/22R and had the headgasket live more than 100 miles. I tried and failed.
Time for a valve job, head gasket and new thermostat (for good measure).

 

Thank you guys, I tighten the head down with spacers so it couldn't move after removing rocker assembly so that should be fine, many posts on various toyota forums about replacing valve seals without removing head, mechanics that do it many times and it works. I am 71 yrs old and removing head is little too much for my back, too many parts need to be disconnected and my memory is not the greatest.

I had never read of the valve guide sheering of like mine is, who knows how long I've been driving with it like that, if I can tap it and pull it off it would save me a lot of back pain, so I was looking for someone that may have done something like this. I have nothing to lose, if it will not work I'll remove the head and do the job right.

I've read somewhere that some guy did it but he tapped the whole length of unbroken valve guide to pull it out, with head removed, rather than knocking it out from bottom which may cause damage to the head.

 

Alright, let us know if it works. To answer your other question, yes there are valve seals called "umbrella" seals that don't grip onto the valve guide. They just ride the stem of the valve. That may work for you. Better than nothing, anyhow!

 

Thanks for the reply Melrose, I looked into the umbrella seals, have difficult time understanding how that works, if they ride on valve stem how do they block oil from being sucked into the cylinder?

This whole project started with oil leak from the top of the timing chain cover, so while I was doing that I checked the plugs and #4 was very oily so that's why I decided to change the valve stem seals and discovered the broken valve guide, have no idea how long I was driving with it broken or if it just happen recently and that is why the oil leak on top of the timing chain happen, with compression blow-by on #4 cylinder because of the broken/worn valve guide