Was not sure where to post this but wanted to see if anybody had any ideas on how to come up with a price for an 87 4runner SR5?
22RE automatic 254000 miles, solid body but needs a little work, interior seats and carpet good but dash has some cracks along with some plastic stuff having wear.
Runs great with a minor oil leak, drive from Idaho to Texas and back once a year so mostly highway miles. Grey with black top. New radiator, new timing chain, tires and brakes good shape.
Thank you.

 

Now that we know you have a stuck head bolt, and decided to just bolt it back down again... we' know a blown gasket is in the future... so, I'd take at least $500 off whatever your going to ask for that repair.

 

Yeah that is a pretty ˟˟˟˟ty thing to do. Fix it right. Sounds like a $1500 soon-to-be roller.

 

U think it will blow if I did not remove the head or take the other bolts out all the way?
Found a reliable mechanic to do replacement for $700. Will go with that knowing he can handle the frozen bolt.

 

You released the compression on the head-gasket between the head and the block, then recompressed it. Yes, it is very likely to leak now. Head-gaskets are definitely and across the board one-time-use only. I'm also fairly certain Toyota considers the head bolts one-time-use, but those likely wouldn't be an issue.

 

Just so you know, Toyota has a TSB saying that you SHOULD re-use headbolts. EG002-98 http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sk...95_runner2.pdf 'Course, they weren't talking about 32-year old bolts, so if you think you'll sleep better go ahead and replace them.

As for retrobeast, yes, that head gasket is now at end-of-life. You HAVE to tell the buyer that you've loosened the headbolts, and one is stuck. That's going to limit your possible market. Or you can fix it right first.

Good luck!

 

Hard to say if the gasket would blow if not compromised... but really good odds it will now...
Glad your getting it fixed...
the market for these is all over the place, going up...
just remember ... you can come down on your price but trying to go up will only kill the sell...
depending on location, condition, I'd start at $ 4k ish...

 

Just had to sleep to regain my bearings.
Took a few hits on head of bolt with a round chisel and that did the trick. The lower threads on bolt were gone so definitely have to clean that head bolt hole.
Continuing the rip down and will report back on completion.
Thank you guys for pushing back.

 

At the least you'll be able to sleep at night after you sell it, and no bad karma

 

I look at these 4runners on Craigslist all across the country and ebay and man, there is a lot of junk out there. Stock, low miles unmolested seem to be able to get the most money.
I'd price yours like I would any other vehicle for sale, that is, look for comparable units for pricing, make it as appealing as possible to as many buyers as possible. Take really good(complimentary) photos.
No photos in the dark at the kmart parking lot like a lot of dimwits I see lately. Advertise widely. Be willing to negotiate pricing if you have to.

 

Finally was able to put a screw driver under the head and give it a lift after a all day marathon.
I left the intake manifold on so had to disconnect all those damn wires underneath it and on starter. Not sure how many of those little wired connectors I fought with and hope once reconnected they all work.
Was there a easier way to do this? Could I have left them on and disconnected the harness from the other side of the firewall?
Also left the fuel injection tube on intake with head but disconnected the 4 injector wires. Probably a good idea to pull injection tube and see how fuel injectors are looking once pulling head tomorrow.
Going to be an interesting day 3 tomorrow.

 

Was there a easier way to do this?

Yes... just remove the upper plenum and move it over just enough to get the head off...
the tube on the back of the head and the egr are the only things besides hoses you have to remove if i remember right... the only bolt usually a problem is the hidden one under the thermostat housing
also a wood block and hammer to " unseat" the head work well...

regardless you got r done... good job!
use a oem hg and new bolts... follow the LCEngineering instructions for install... good luck

 

Thank u. I have a good oem gasket kit with new head bolts.
Your suggestion would have worked for me but I only took off plenum (the section above the intake manifold?). But I kept intake manifold on and the wiring harness was running thru the intake.
Time to pull the head, clean surface and put on new gasket. Then starting putting the puzzle back together.

 

So my block and head were all nicely cleaned. I blew out the holes paying careful attention to the one that go stuck on one from back exhaust side.
Put on new gasket and set head on now issues, until.
Until I was slowly tightening all the new head bolts and realized the original stuck one is not tightening properly. Even tried another new and one of the old bolts.
Is there any way of fixing the issue with out pulling head to helicoil it? Longer bolt to by pass bad area or a couple of washers that keep the threads from hitting the dead zone where the block threads are bad as long as I can get the torque.

 

Did you run a tap in the holes? Its highly recommend to do them all...

 

Once i cleaned the block surface for the new gasket i took one of the original head bolts, cleaned the treads then tested in each bolt hold, then blew out each with air.
Seems like the thread on bad hole losses grip once it get below a certain thread point. Was wondering if to avoid that dead spot lower on the block treads if I could place a washer to keep the bolt end at thread level and allow torquing? If this would work I have to see if the bolt head being a little higher would interfere with valve cover clearance.

 

 

Did you inspect the head and block surface for damage after prying up with a screwdriver?

 

He back up and running.
Thank all who gave me the great advice during the repair process.

 

Good job man...