I have a 1993 toyota pickup 22-RE, 4x4, 5-speed, extended cab. I drove it a bit ago to run an errand and it was driving differently than usual. While I was driving, it almost felt like it was going to stall out while going down the road. It also seemed to have an issue getting up to speed and it would only do it when I was pressing on the accelerator. The engine was idling fine and sounded normal. I drove it earlier this morning in 4 wheel drive due to snow and it didn't have this issue and drove perfectly fine. When I got home this morning I left it outside so I wasn't sure if maybe the parking brake got frozen or what. Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

 

If your brakes were dragging you would notice that distinct brake burning smell after stopping, and one or more wheels would be excessively hot. Can you explain more about what you mean "going to stall out"?

 

Moisture in the distributor cap???
IF rubber o ring is missing it takes moisture not being wet to cause problems...
its almost too simple to think it's an issue...ask me how i know.

 

I'll give that a check. The truck just suddenly began to run rough. A friend told me it could be that my Mass Air Sensor just might need to be cleaned. The head gasket was just redone on the truck and he said that's common to get gunked up if the head gasket blew. I got some Air Mass Sensor cleaner and i'm going to try that. Fingers crossed.

 

reading is hard

Sorry no help here

 

Your Truck does not have a Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF), but rather a simpler Air Flow Meter (AFM or VAFM) that has a flapper that moves depending on the amount of air flow going through the meter. The cleaner probably won't do anything.

It sounds like an intermittent problem.

Is the check engine light on?

There may be codes stored in the engine computer (even if the check engine light does not stay on).

You will want to check to see if any codes are stored in the engine computer. Find the diagnostic port by the under-hood fuse box, use a jumper wire (a paper clip works) and jump the E1 and TE1 ports. Turn the key to the ON position. This sets the computer into diagnostic mode. Look at the Check Engine light and count the flashes. If the flashes are completely steady, there are no codes. Below is the factory procedure and what the codes mean.

 

I finally figured out the mass air flow compared to the meter thing. Seemed like a lot of what i read and researched was conflicting. Anyways, I finally opened the hood today and took a look at things. Turns out it was as simple as a plug having come disconnected from the distributer cap haha. A simple problem is fine with me. Thanks for the feedback!

 

Thanks for posting the fix!

I am glad it was a simple fix.

 

Yep glad it wasn't something serious. Is there anything that should be done to clean or adjust the Air Flow Meter?

 

you can adjust the AFM ... instructions on the LCENGINEERING site...

 

I learned the TPS (throttle position sensor) can also fail to operate properly. Removing for a visual inspection looks easy enough but appears the throttle body has to be unbolted to get TPS off. You can see the screws on the TPS, just can't access the bottom screw. The TPS has a spring that opens closes and it can get weak and make for rough idling and higher fuel consumption

 

The Air Flow Meter should not be adjusted under normal circumstances (i.e. stock engine).