93 4runner 3.0 4x4 auto trans. Steering box was leaking so I pulled it to install new seals. Box was questionable (preload screw was all the way in and about 1.5 in of play. Pulled the unit and installed seals, but did not remove valve body. The input shaft had about 2 3/4 turning originally, but after reseal it now has 4 turns and the steering wheel has a half turn of play. Is the something in the valve body that could have changed??? Is it even worth rebuilding with the lack of adjustment. The teeth on the shaft have a choppy look to them, not smooth.
Good news is it doesn't leak. LOL

 

Got it. The power valve retaining nut plate apparently has a lock ring and in my case stayed on the plate at time of removal. When installing I thought it was part of the plate and set the preload without removing it leaving play in the bearings. I went back into it and install the plate first and set preload them put on the lock ring. Now working correctly.
If anyone is interested I did learn from this that play in your gear box has nothing to do with the external adjusting screw. The adjusting screw only sets how tight the gears mesh. If you have play in your steering wheel then it is caused by excessive bearing play in the valve body head section. To remove the play you need to open the unit and reset the preload on the nut plate and Wa La, your play will be gone like the unit was new again.
Thanks for reading.

 

I am glad you figured out the problem!

Thanks for posting your fix.

 

My steering box is also leaking power steering fluid, how hard is it to reseal it? Did you take any pics. while you fixed it? I have no clue on how to replace the seals.

 

Sorry I did not take pic's, but there are one or two good you tube videos on it depending on the year box.This forum was the most helpful. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ste...ebuild.443494/ Just try not to let the balls out, but if it happens just make sure you don't loose any and get them all back in.
Hope this helps.

 

 

Yeah, I was thinking about a new one, but for $250 dollars I went with rebuilding the one I have. For the preload on the nut plate I could not find spec so I did it like a wheel bearing. I snugged it up to about 11 foot pounds and backed it off about an 1/8 , or so, turn till the resistance went away. I seemed to work well.Good luck.

 

Another tip that might be helpful. The pitman are seems to be a problem for a lot of people, but if you apply some liquid wrench to the shaft and use a pitman arm puller on it then put some torque on the puller and give the round part of the arm a tap or two with a two or three pound sledge the arm will pop right off if it is not badly rusted on. The same can be done with ball joints and tie rods. This will momentarily distort the joint and pop it lose. Works like magic.

 

Do you have the part # that you use to rebuilt your steering box and where did you buy it from?

 

I don't have the Toyota seal kit numbers at hand but Edelmann makes reseal kits for these steering boxes::

#8846 for the early short IFS box and #8847 for the later long IFS box.

 

I almost bought a 2nd. gen. steering box last year at the junkyard it looked nice and dry, but then i thought it wouldn't fit in my 87 4runner without having to do some modification.

 

They do fit. I have a long box on my '87 4Runner that came off a '92 Runner.

Just had to slide the column shaft up a bit shorter. No destructive mods necessary.

 

Thanks i'm gonna look into that, i see a lot of 2nd gens at yards all the time so it'ill be easier to find a good box.

So is the column shaft adjustable somehow?

 

Yes. they have a slip-joint between the box and the firewall.

 

Thanks a lot for the help millball, i learned something new today.

 

Added note. I now have everything together and the preload did not take out all the play, but its better. My gear inside the box was badly worn so better is good.