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Hi everyone. Posted these questions in my build thread but had not luck. Figured I would try here.
Rebuilding a junkyard 22re (late model) that appears to have a stock bottom end!
Need to take block to machine shop to get it all measured to start.
In the mean time, I am researching parts.
Planning to purchase a new water pump, oil pump, pistons, rings, bearings, cam, and a complete toyota oem gasket kit.
Going for a stock rebuild, quality oem parts with reliability in mind.
My questions:
1. Reuse head bolts? Rod bolts? Crank bolts?
2. Reuse timing cover?
3. Pistons? ART pistons are oem
I think I am going to buy them from toyota. Unless anyone has any more info on ART pistons? I could not find their catalogue.
Reuse pistons if you don't have to bore it over. Order pistons and rings only after the shop tells you what size they bored to.
Do not reuse head bolts. Timing cover should be good to go. if you deck the head - deck the cover!!!
I like OEM gaskets.
IF you go cam, go intake, oversized TB, cam,street header (power lower in the rpm) and 2,75" cat back exhaust.
If the head need too much work (new valve seats etc), consider just getting one from either:
Order everything from lcengineering or 22reperformance.
Some 1984 pickup trucks and 1983-1984 Celica models, equipped with 22R-E engines, may experience a condition called "temperature gauge overshoot". After starting a cold engine the temperature gauge will indicate a higher than normal engine temperature for a short time just prior to the thermostat opening. After the thermostat opens, the temperature gauge will return to the normal range. A new double valve thermostat has been made available to reduce temperature gauge overshoot.And calls for part number 90916-03070 which according to the TSB replaces 90916-03055.
Check for chain grooves in the timing cover and cylinder head. Both of mine had chain grooves, so I replaced both with Enginetech cover and Enginetech complete bolt on cylinder head. I did use new Enginetech head bolts too. Both working just fine for about 19 months now.
My 22RE needed a head gasket and timing chain. Wish I had rebuilt the rocker assembly, but ran of money.
Seriously considered buying the LCE double roller chain conversion kit that requires their modified timing cover, but money was an object there too.
Hi everyone. Posted these questions in my build thread but had not luck. Figured I would try here.
Rebuilding a junkyard 22re (late model) that appears to have a stock bottom end!
Need to take block to machine shop to get it all measured to start.
In the mean time, I am researching parts.
Planning to purchase a new water pump, oil pump, pistons, rings, bearings, cam, and a complete toyota oem gasket kit.
Going for a stock rebuild, quality oem parts with reliability in mind.
My questions:
1. Reuse head bolts? Rod bolts? Crank bolts?
2. Reuse timing cover?
3. Pistons? ART pistons are oem
I think I am going to buy them from toyota. Unless anyone has any more info on ART pistons? I could not find their catalogue.
4. Rings?
Planning to go with NPR.
5. Bearings?
Planning to go with Taiho.
6. Rebuild or replace head?
7. What cam?
Who's going to "build" this engine? Are you an "engine builder" ? You haven't even taken your stuff to a machine shop yet. You might have a junk block, or head, or both...
Enough of that.
Find a GOOD automotive machine shop nearby ( a nearly impossible task in most places nowadays) and tell them what you want. If they are "GOOD", they will steer you straight. Many of them also "build" engines. A shop that specializes in or does a lot of work with Toyota engines like the 22RE would be a major plus. My $0.02
p.s. original thermostat in my '89 just went with us on a 900 mile journey yesterday...works just fine
Last edited by JJ'89; Jan 25, 2019 at 07:10 AM.
Reason: afterthought
If and when my bottom end goes, that's the route I am taking. I will remove and install the engine myself to save some bucks.
Aisin water pump and oil pump is what I used when I did head gasket and new timing chain kit. They have grind marks on them. It's obvious they ground off Toyota. Fuel pressure regulator is Kyosan, and Amazon has those in stock if you need one. Toyota part number and Denso stamped on the regulator housing.
Thanks everyone for the replies. I am not going to buy anything yet until I hear from the machine shop, never was planning to in the first place.
I'll get new head bolts and also check out the cover to see if there are any wear marks from the chain. Planning to reuse the rod and crank bolts.
I also already have a cat back exhaust on my rig.
Last edited by 84 yota dude; Jan 26, 2019 at 10:28 AM.
Back with an update. Dropped the block and head at Bud's Machine shop in Lakewood, WA. They weren't too busy and got to work!
Work that was done:
Block:
Cleaned, checked for cracks, bored 30 over, decked with timing cover
New NPR pistons and rings
King main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, wrist pin bushings
New freeze plugs
Crank was straight and was micro polished
Entire rotating assembly was balanced including flywheel
Head:
Cleaned, checked for cracks, decked
4 new exhaust valves
Rockers, intake valves, and cam were all in good shape
I am going to get new valve adjusting bolts/nuts as they look worn. I am not sure if the intake/exhaust valve seats were replaced, I have to check the paperwork.
Overall, the engine looks awesome!! I would highly recommend Bud's machine shop. They assembled the short block and did the head work as well.
The block was original and they said it went together nicely.
Some questions I have:
1. They installed a speedi sleeve on the back of the crank as there was a groove from the seal. I have read good and bad things about speedi sleeves. Anyone have any input here?
2. Now is the time to change the camshaft. I was looking at some of the lce cams (mild street). I am not sure if it is worth it to upgrade camshafts now as this one is not damaged and I am not going to put an air intake on the engine or mess with the efi system. I do have a 2/2.25in cat back exhaust. Any input here? Any other camshaft manufacturers you'd recommend? I don't want a Chinese made cam.
3. Anyone running Bosch fuel injectors (4 hole ones)?
4. What else is needed for a late 22re intake swap besides adjusting the orientation of the tps?
5. Anyone know of a good high temp clear coat for the aluminum parts?
6. What is the best way to prep aluminum parts safely?
7. Will a late model 22re A/C compressor mount to all 22re A/C brackets? I have read the brackets were different for the 22rs.
New valve adjustment screws is a smart choice. I bet it will quieten the valve train down some.
I have been running a new set of Hyundai/Bosch type four hole fuel injectors with Sumitomo port for about 20 months now, and they have been just fine. They were plug and play. Plugged straight into the wiring harness. I bought them from Dimar Motorsports on Ebay. One of the few I trust when buying injectors. I checked their store, and they only have some Bosch 4 hole remans for a 22RE.
The Hyundai injectors I have are made in Korea, and are OE for various model years Hyundai/KIA with the 2.4 engine. Part number is Hyundai 3531025200. Dimar Motorsports did change the o-rings and grommets to fit a 22RE fuel rail. The fuel rail end had double o-rings, and the other end had Denso grommets...just like the picture that I linked above.
If you have the original injectors, and are running tight on money you can buy a service kit for the injectors. Might be able to find a cheaper service kit on Ebay.
I think it’s great that you had it balanced. I once had a stock 22re rebuild balanced and the effect was amazing. It was smoother all through the rpms. It was really worth it.
The next best thing i did to a 20r was install a TRD adjustable cam gear and advance the stock cam a few degrees. It helped it out in the lower RPMs.
I’m curious what your engine builder would advise after decking the block and head because the distance between the cam and crank ceterline can decrease and retard the cam somewhat. Thicker head gasket can compensate, but then your quench spec may go out. While you have the head off, would you be able to measure the DITH of the piston at TDC and report back? Its the distance between the top of the piston and the deck of the block ”down in the hole”. If you dont have a dial indicator or feeler gauges just ballpark it with a quarter, dime, penny etc. just something of known thickness( 35 cents, haha). Im also curious to know what head gasket he recommended and its compressed thickness,
Jan 23, 2019 | 10:23 PM
