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22re Rebuild OEM Part Help

Old 01-23-2019, 10:23 PM
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22re Rebuild OEM Part Help

Hi everyone. Posted these questions in my build thread but had not luck. Figured I would try here.
Rebuilding a junkyard 22re (late model) that appears to have a stock bottom end!
Need to take block to machine shop to get it all measured to start.
In the mean time, I am researching parts.

Planning to purchase a new water pump, oil pump, pistons, rings, bearings, cam, and a complete toyota oem gasket kit.

Going for a stock rebuild, quality oem parts with reliability in mind.

My questions:
1. Reuse head bolts? Rod bolts? Crank bolts?

2. Reuse timing cover?

3. Pistons? ART pistons are oem
I think I am going to buy them from toyota. Unless anyone has any more info on ART pistons? I could not find their catalogue.

4. Rings?
Planning to go with NPR.

5. Bearings?
Planning to go with Taiho.

6. Rebuild or replace head?

7. What cam?
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:40 PM
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Reuse pistons if you don't have to bore it over. Order pistons and rings only after the shop tells you what size they bored to.

Do not reuse head bolts. Timing cover should be good to go. if you deck the head - deck the cover!!!
I like OEM gaskets.
IF you go cam, go intake, oversized TB, cam,street header (power lower in the rpm) and 2,75" cat back exhaust.
If the head need too much work (new valve seats etc), consider just getting one from either:

Order everything from lcengineering or 22reperformance.
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Old 01-24-2019, 03:56 AM
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Agree with ev13wt, dont buy parts until your machine shop evaluates the block. You will save money.
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Old 01-24-2019, 03:56 AM
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Here is what I have for OEM part numbers for a '92 for some of the parts you may need:

air injection reed valve 17350-35050
air plenum to intake gasket 17176-35020
air tube gasket 17376-35030
cold start injector gasket 23293-35020
crankshaft pulley bolt 90105-14004
dash pot 22202-35271
dist cap 19101-35180
dist cap o-ring 90099-14090
dist o-ring 19127-15021
dist rotor 19102-73021
egr inlet gasket to plenum 25628-35020
egr vacuum modulator 25870-35130
egr valve 25620-35130
fuel hose from filter to fuel rail 23901-35010
fuel hose leading to filter 23906-35010
fuel pressure regulator 23280-35030
half-moon seal 11183-38010
head gasket 11115-35060
idle air control gasket 22215-35270
idle air control valve 22230-35030
idle screw o-ring 90301-07001
injector 23209-35040
oil cap gasket 90430-37140
oil plate cover gasket on head 11496-35010
oil pump 15100-35020
o-ring for water pipe inlet 96711-24017
plenum to intake gasket 17176-35020
pvc 12204-35040
pvc grommet 90480-18180
spark plug & coil wires 90919-29055
spark plug wire clamp 90464-00303
throttle body gasket 22271-35020
t-stat 190degree 90916-03078
valve cover gasket 11213-35010
valve cover washer seal 90210-08026
water pump 16100-39346
water heater pipe to intake bolts 90080-11227

Last edited by Paul22RE; 01-24-2019 at 04:20 AM.
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Old 01-24-2019, 04:45 AM
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I suggest 2-stage thermostat, Toyota P/N: 90916-03070 instead of the normal one.
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml

Some 1984 pickup trucks and 1983-1984 Celica models, equipped with 22R-E engines, may experience a condition called "temperature gauge overshoot". After starting a cold engine the temperature gauge will indicate a higher than normal engine temperature for a short time just prior to the thermostat opening. After the thermostat opens, the temperature gauge will return to the normal range. A new double valve thermostat has been made available to reduce temperature gauge overshoot.And calls for part number 90916-03070 which according to the TSB replaces 90916-03055.

For part numbers: toyodiy.com

Last edited by ev13wt; 01-24-2019 at 04:47 AM.
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Old 01-24-2019, 06:10 AM
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Check for chain grooves in the timing cover and cylinder head. Both of mine had chain grooves, so I replaced both with Enginetech cover and Enginetech complete bolt on cylinder head. I did use new Enginetech head bolts too. Both working just fine for about 19 months now.

My 22RE needed a head gasket and timing chain. Wish I had rebuilt the rocker assembly, but ran of money.

Seriously considered buying the LCE double roller chain conversion kit that requires their modified timing cover, but money was an object there too.
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:09 AM
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I think it is completely fine to use the standard Toyota thermostat if you are not having any "temperature gauge overshoot" problems.

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Old 01-25-2019, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 84 yota dude View Post
Hi everyone. Posted these questions in my build thread but had not luck. Figured I would try here.
Rebuilding a junkyard 22re (late model) that appears to have a stock bottom end!
Need to take block to machine shop to get it all measured to start.
In the mean time, I am researching parts.

Planning to purchase a new water pump, oil pump, pistons, rings, bearings, cam, and a complete toyota oem gasket kit.

Going for a stock rebuild, quality oem parts with reliability in mind.

My questions:
1. Reuse head bolts? Rod bolts? Crank bolts?

2. Reuse timing cover?

3. Pistons? ART pistons are oem
I think I am going to buy them from toyota. Unless anyone has any more info on ART pistons? I could not find their catalogue.

4. Rings?
Planning to go with NPR.

5. Bearings?
Planning to go with Taiho.

6. Rebuild or replace head?

7. What cam?
Who's going to "build" this engine? Are you an "engine builder" ? You haven't even taken your stuff to a machine shop yet. You might have a junk block, or head, or both...

Enough of that.

Find a GOOD automotive machine shop nearby ( a nearly impossible task in most places nowadays) and tell them what you want. If they are "GOOD", they will steer you straight. Many of them also "build" engines. A shop that specializes in or does a lot of work with Toyota engines like the 22RE would be a major plus. My $0.02
p.s. original thermostat in my '89 just went with us on a 900 mile journey yesterday...works just fine

Last edited by JJ'89; 01-25-2019 at 07:10 AM. Reason: afterthought
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Old 01-25-2019, 08:06 AM
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I can buy a rebuilt 22RE with new cylinder head for $950 with my old engine as exchange. http://poteatsengines.com/services/

If and when my bottom end goes, that's the route I am taking. I will remove and install the engine myself to save some bucks.

Aisin water pump and oil pump is what I used when I did head gasket and new timing chain kit. They have grind marks on them. It's obvious they ground off Toyota. Fuel pressure regulator is Kyosan, and Amazon has those in stock if you need one. Toyota part number and Denso stamped on the regulator housing.
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:21 PM
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I am not going to buy anything yet until I hear from the machine shop, never was planning to in the first place.
I'll get new head bolts and also check out the cover to see if there are any wear marks from the chain. Planning to reuse the rod and crank bolts.
I also already have a cat back exhaust on my rig.

Last edited by 84 yota dude; 01-26-2019 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 01-26-2019, 03:39 AM
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I agree on OEM gaskets. Had my head gasket go on a rebuilt engine at 10K miles. Sucks when the builders use low buck gaskets.
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:34 PM
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Back with an update. Dropped the block and head at Bud's Machine shop in Lakewood, WA. They weren't too busy and got to work!
Work that was done:

Block:
Cleaned, checked for cracks, bored 30 over, decked with timing cover
New NPR pistons and rings
King main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, wrist pin bushings
New freeze plugs
Crank was straight and was micro polished
Entire rotating assembly was balanced including flywheel

Head:
Cleaned, checked for cracks, decked
4 new exhaust valves
Rockers, intake valves, and cam were all in good shape

I am going to get new valve adjusting bolts/nuts as they look worn. I am not sure if the intake/exhaust valve seats were replaced, I have to check the paperwork.

Overall, the engine looks awesome!! I would highly recommend Bud's machine shop. They assembled the short block and did the head work as well.
The block was original and they said it went together nicely.

Some questions I have:
1. They installed a speedi sleeve on the back of the crank as there was a groove from the seal. I have read good and bad things about speedi sleeves. Anyone have any input here?
2. Now is the time to change the camshaft. I was looking at some of the lce cams (mild street). I am not sure if it is worth it to upgrade camshafts now as this one is not damaged and I am not going to put an air intake on the engine or mess with the efi system. I do have a 2/2.25in cat back exhaust. Any input here? Any other camshaft manufacturers you'd recommend? I don't want a Chinese made cam.
3. Anyone running Bosch fuel injectors (4 hole ones)?
4. What else is needed for a late 22re intake swap besides adjusting the orientation of the tps?
5. Anyone know of a good high temp clear coat for the aluminum parts?
6. What is the best way to prep aluminum parts safely?
7. Will a late model 22re A/C compressor mount to all 22re A/C brackets? I have read the brackets were different for the 22rs.













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Old 02-12-2019, 04:04 AM
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New valve adjustment screws is a smart choice. I bet it will quieten the valve train down some.

I have been running a new set of Hyundai/Bosch type four hole fuel injectors with Sumitomo port for about 20 months now, and they have been just fine. They were plug and play. Plugged straight into the wiring harness. I bought them from Dimar Motorsports on Ebay. One of the few I trust when buying injectors. I checked their store, and they only have some Bosch 4 hole remans for a 22RE.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Best-Upgrade-2-0L-2-4L-22RE-4-Hole-Nozzle-Genuine-Bosch-Plug-and-Play-Set-4/301809318364?hash=item46453cb9dc:g:hVkAAOSwp5JWV5o N:sc:USPSFirstClass!28602!US!-1:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

The Hyundai injectors I have are made in Korea, and are OE for various model years Hyundai/KIA with the 2.4 engine. Part number is Hyundai 3531025200. Dimar Motorsports did change the o-rings and grommets to fit a 22RE fuel rail. The fuel rail end had double o-rings, and the other end had Denso grommets...just like the picture that I linked above.

If you have the original injectors, and are running tight on money you can buy a service kit for the injectors. Might be able to find a cheaper service kit on Ebay.

Amazon Amazon

Last edited by snippits; 02-12-2019 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:22 AM
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I think it’s great that you had it balanced. I once had a stock 22re rebuild balanced and the effect was amazing. It was smoother all through the rpms. It was really worth it.

The next best thing i did to a 20r was install a TRD adjustable cam gear and advance the stock cam a few degrees. It helped it out in the lower RPMs.
I’m curious what your engine builder would advise after decking the block and head because the distance between the cam and crank ceterline can decrease and retard the cam somewhat. Thicker head gasket can compensate, but then your quench spec may go out. While you have the head off, would you be able to measure the DITH of the piston at TDC and report back? Its the distance between the top of the piston and the deck of the block ”down in the hole”. If you dont have a dial indicator or feeler gauges just ballpark it with a quarter, dime, penny etc. just something of known thickness( 35 cents, haha). Im also curious to know what head gasket he recommended and its compressed thickness,

Looking forward to hearing it run!
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:24 AM
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LCEngineering has head gaskets that compensate for differences in thickness after milling the block and head... and bore size...

Last edited by 87-4runner; 02-12-2019 at 04:28 AM.
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:26 AM
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Be cautious on the valve adjust screws. I once had some that wore much worse than oem. I wound up putting the used ones back in after a while.
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Old 02-12-2019, 05:20 AM
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Since the head was machined and block decked, would a shim for the cylinder head be a good choice?
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Old 02-12-2019, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by snippits View Post
Since the head was machined and block decked, would a shim for the cylinder head be a good choice?
a rhetorical question?
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 87-4runner View Post
a rhetorical question?
Asking because the block and head have been machined. There are shims and over sized head gaskets.

Cloyes installation tip that I came across when installing one of their timing kits in a 22RE engine.

http://www.cloyes.com/Images/Tips/To...%209-4148S.pdf

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Old 02-12-2019, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by snippits View Post
Asking because the block and head have been machined. There are shims and over sized head gaskets.

Cloyes installation tip that I came across when installing one of their timing kits in a 22RE engine.

http://www.cloyes.com/Images/Tips/To...%209-4148S.pdf
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