Searching thru this forum so far I have not run across any threads about engine oil. We all have to use it. Our machines need it to make us happy. So I have to ask what's in your crankcase? I am not an expert on the subject, just curious. I used Castor oil 10w30 in my 90 Toyota 3.0 V6 extra cab 4x4 since it was new. Did not seem to be any sludge build up other than emulsified oil when the head gasket blew. Been thinking about going full synthetic when i get thru rebuilding my engine. Any thots on the subject? Thanks for reading.

 

On a rebuild you will need to start off with dino oil for 5 to 10 k miles (maybe more) so it can break in.

 

Yeah on rebuild dino is the way to go. Its fine on the engine and since you want to change early for the first couple changes why waste money on synthetic. I personally run Napa synthetic blend. Thats what we use on cars at work and have always liked the results. As of right now Valvoline makes Napa oil.

 

Yes, what these guys ^^ said.

Although expensive, some recommend Joe Gibbs Driven BR-30 Break-in oil for the initial break-in (up to 400 miles).

For "everyday use", I use the "Genuine Toyota 10W-30" oil I get from the dealer when I buy my Genuine Toyota oil filters.

Some people may say: why go to the dealer for oil when you can go to the parts stores and get "better" oil?

I buy the Genuine Toyota oil for convenience (I am already buying the oil filter), lower price compared to name-brand oil at the parts stores, and the current oil is several API oil classifications ahead of when my engine was made. In other words, the new oil is much better than what would have been on the shelves when the truck was new.

Switching to synthetic at a later date is up to you, but stick with conventional oil for the break-in period.

 

Oh and use a high zinc oil for the break in period.

 

I have a 55 gallon drum of Castroil 25/40 that I have been using forever .

It gets used in everything from fresh rebuilds to engines with 200,000 miles plus

I am far to cheap to use synthetic having just one oil makes it hard to put the wrong oil in

 

If you don't use a break in oil... the rings will not seat properly against the cylinder walls and you'll use oil... and loose some compression... been there done that, even tried the old borax trick to try and break down the glazed cylinder walls... didn't work... eventually had to hone the cylinders re-ring and break in properly...

 

10W-30 Mobil 1 in gallon jug at Wal-mart is the best deal I could find.
I change oil and filter every 10K miles.
But... it's a Toyota; Someday I may try used cooking oil. J/K. LOL!

 

I've heard Extra Virgin Olive oil is good. How they get "extra" virgin I have no clue.

 

I use Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 in my T4R first gen 22RE.

 

It's from the ugly ones

 

I have used Rotella Straight Grade 30WT since owning my rig.
Been good for me.