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High crankcase pressure in newly rebuilt 22RE

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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 12:17 PM
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High crankcase pressure in newly rebuilt 22RE

Hi folks, I recently rebuilt the 22RE engine in my 1991 4Runner. I've got about 200 miles on the rebuild. The problem I'm having is that the crankcase pressure is high and quite a bit of air comes out of oil filler hole if the cap is removed. I blew into the breather hose and the PCV hose and they both seem clear; there's a new PCV valve. I also did a compression test and all the cylinders are in the 180-190 range. Is this crankcase pressure normal for a new engine that's breaking in? I'm worried that it's going to blow a seal or develop an oil leak. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 12:22 PM
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The blow-by pressure should become somewhat less as the engine breaks in.

If the PCV valve is new and piped correctly, all you can do is run it and see.

The 22REs I have seen all throw some oil and air with the oil filler off, regardless of engine condition... Good luck, and let us know of developments.
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by millball
....

The 22REs I have seen all throw some oil and air with the oil filler off, regardless of engine condition... Good luck, and let us know of developments.
Pretty much everything does this, venting cycles, the positive and negative pressure should be near equal. Without a pressure transducer it's all just guessing what is actually going on.

The 22r series is prone to spewing oil partly due to the layout, there is always a puddle right under that fill cap so it has a good source to spray.

You could attempt plumbing a vacuum/pressure guage and doing the conversion from psi to in/hg, but best bet would be an electronic transducer and logging o-scope.. Not worth the effort unless it's sucking down oil like a drunk at a free keg party, in my opinion..
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 08:22 AM
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Thanks for the replies! Sounds like it's normal then. Just getting a little paranoid here with the rebuild. Last thing I want to do is have to tear into it again.
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 03:48 AM
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Blow by during ring seating a long with the chance of debris from new parts and the build process are why the builders require an oil change at such a short interval.

I can't really speak from personal experience as to what happens to them when they hit the dealer but Toyota built it started it up and ship them off.. This relates to the other currently active thread about factory vs rebuilt..
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Old Aug 8, 2024 | 02:32 PM
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Hey guys, I just had my 22re rebuilt (Long Block) and my one is doing the same thing. I have excess case pressure with new breather hoses and new PCV valve. After the break-in period I put standard 10w-40 per Toyota Factory manual and this engine sucked up and burned a whole quart in 750 miles. I now have 1530 miles on it and its only gotten worse. Did a bore scope on it and it doesn't really seem to be broke in yet. I'm wondering if they put the rings in upside down if that would cause the excess pressure as well as blowing the oil up into the combustion chamber? Any thoughts?
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Old Aug 8, 2024 | 02:42 PM
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Leakdown test
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Old Aug 8, 2024 | 03:56 PM
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Thank you JimKola. I'll let you know what we find.
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Old Aug 8, 2024 | 04:00 PM
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The chain parts stores have them in their tool loan program. If you’ve never done one watch a few on YouTube.
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Old Aug 14, 2024 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 4RunnerTexas
Hey guys, I just had my 22re rebuilt (Long Block) and my one is doing the same thing. I have excess case pressure with new breather hoses and new PCV valve. After the break-in period I put standard 10w-40 per Toyota Factory manual and this engine sucked up and burned a whole quart in 750 miles. I now have 1530 miles on it and its only gotten worse. Did a bore scope on it and it doesn't really seem to be broke in yet. I'm wondering if they put the rings in upside down if that would cause the excess pressure as well as blowing the oil up into the combustion chamber? Any thoughts?
What was your break-in procedure? What you're trying to avoid is glazing more than anything.
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 05:01 PM
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Smile

Originally Posted by Blueman
What was your break-in procedure? What you're trying to avoid is glazing more than anything.
ah yes. Break-in procedure was good with Royal Purple Break-in Oil. I called the rebuilder and told them what was happening and they agreed to fix it whatever it takes. They think the oil scrubber ring either broke or somehow the rings may have lined up on #1 cylinder. All I have to do is pull it back out and take it back to them. My main concern was that it was not on me. Something like a clogged baffle in the Valve Cover not letting enough air flow through the fresh air hose or the PVC Hose. Anyway. Thank you all for your help and knowledge. Appreciate it.
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 10:07 AM
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it would be nice to know where the excess oil consumption is going, for instance are the plugs oily? blue smoke on acceleration or de-acceleration? etc.

also monitor oil leaks, the 22re's that i've had all leaked at the back of the head from the valve cover gasket.

i recently plumbed an oil catch can in, downstream from the pcv, trying to measure the oil loss.

you can block both ends of the pcv line, remove the dipstick, and rubber-band a balloon onto the end of the empty dipstick tube... if there is blowby, you'll soon see how much.
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Old Aug 27, 2024 | 05:05 PM
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 09:37 AM
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Thanks for the info. I did the leak down test and all was good. The oil is blowing up through the #1 cylinder. I got back to the engine builder and they told me to take it back out of my truck and bring it back to them and they will make it right. This was a "Long Block" rebuild and I have a 1 year warranty on the rebuild and they told me they may have broken a ring on the #1 piston. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't anything I did before getting back to them. Thanks again for your knowledge.
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