Leaking fuel pressure pulsation damper
#1
Leaking fuel pressure pulsation damper
I just put everything back together after replacing the head gasket on my 94 3VZE. When I tried starting the truck, it failed to start, and fuel was leaking out of the fuel pressure pulsation damper. Bell house looking thing on the passenger side fuel rail up against the firewall. I tried tightening the screw, but am noticing it is leaking from around the rim of the housing. Not the screw, and not where the damper attaches to the fuel rail.
I *think* I have everything put back together correctly. I replaced all the seals, pintle caps, and micro filters on all the fuel injectors.
Any idea what my problem is? Is it possible that some of my vacuum hoses are hooked up wrong and that is causing the problem?
It seems that even with a fuel leak the truck should start up.
I *think* I have everything put back together correctly. I replaced all the seals, pintle caps, and micro filters on all the fuel injectors.
Any idea what my problem is? Is it possible that some of my vacuum hoses are hooked up wrong and that is causing the problem?
It seems that even with a fuel leak the truck should start up.
Last edited by cbeaudin; Aug 26, 2017 at 01:06 PM.
#4
Your FPD has an internal leak; replace it. Part no. 23207-65010 $138 at an online dealer http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/TO...320765010.html (probably considerably more at a brick-and-mortar dealer). $85 at RockAuto. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/t...re+damper,6120 Your choice.
The screw is just there as a pressure indicator. Tightening it probably defeats the damping, but has nothing to do with leaking. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...octite-266710/ You can even take out the screw and throw it away; the damper will still work fine.
As space-junk hinted, you'll need 6 crush washers to install the new damper; 2 for the damper, and 4 for the cross-over you'll have to remove to get to it.
The screw is just there as a pressure indicator. Tightening it probably defeats the damping, but has nothing to do with leaking. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...octite-266710/ You can even take out the screw and throw it away; the damper will still work fine.
As space-junk hinted, you'll need 6 crush washers to install the new damper; 2 for the damper, and 4 for the cross-over you'll have to remove to get to it.
#6
Wait, what? How do you replace the head gaskets without removing the Fuel Pressure Damper? Did you just leave the right fuel rail connected to the fuel line and push it out of the way?
The FPD fails slowly. It would not surprise me if yours has been leaking, slowly, for quite some time. The fuel evaporates in the warm engine bay, and as long as it doesn't catch fire you'd never know about it.
The FPD fails slowly. It would not surprise me if yours has been leaking, slowly, for quite some time. The fuel evaporates in the warm engine bay, and as long as it doesn't catch fire you'd never know about it.
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#8
Reopen thread
one an agm battery that isn’t fully charged and have to jump it each time to drive.
Question: does the vehicle need fuel voltage to start properly? I can get it started but it doesn’t fire up as fast as it once did? I have a leaky pulsation damper, would a lack of fuel pressure prevent her from starting quickly?
2. I think I may have a few leaky fuel injectors. I went on a long trip from Colorado to Iowa and think I got a bad tank of gas, but after many fuel changes and Seafoam it hasn’t really improved, which leads me to the cold start injector. If the electrical is in top notch condition is it really needed, or if I have leaky injectors is the cold start injector flooding it?
she runs fine when I get her going, although when cold it doesn’t have the same output as before and my fuel economy is in the drink.
unfortunately we had to move to an apartment as my house was stolen, yes stolen and all my equipment with it. I’m not sure how to go about this with so many possible issues. It is a single owner car, but has seen some rough months with the stolen house and all. I know I’m basically driving a Roman candle with the fuel leak. Any suggestions on fuel pulsation dampers that are cost effective as I’m on a super limited budget.
i know I have to purchase the damper, six new fuel injectors. Am I missing anything?
i have not worked on her in a while since I rebuilt the heads and timing belt at the same time. Is it possible to just move the upper plenum out of the way without having to disconnect any coolant lines?
one last thing: I have to top off the coolant very rarely to keep it at it’s full mark, is that normal? I figure the water was evaporating ever so slowly since it only required very little top offs. Any tips or advice would be super appreciated.
someone in another thread postulated on deleting the damper altogether, wouldn’t that be bad, like cause major pressure spikes in the fuel rails.
she used to settle into 80 mph if I wasn’t careful, now it’s 55 and I don’t want to push her.
thanks
gt350mk



